like i said before... My car starts and stalls after 5 seconds of running time. It will start everytime. But someone told me that my AFM on the airbox could be bad...causing my car to stall after 5 seconds..

I remember a while ago... there was a bunch of water sitting in the airbox, so i took those 2 screws out on the side of the box to pull the afm out, and it wouldnt *** out and i think i ****** jammed something...cuz i seen all i had to do was pull the plug off.. but i got the water out... Now i took the plug off and tried starting it and it still stalls after 5 sec. It is also like 20-30 degrees out here too.

So without spending any money...is there anyway to trick the car into thinking that the afm works so i can see if my car can run for a fe minutes?

cuz i have no money to blow on an afm airbox for it not to be the problem.

 

does the door on the afm still open smoothly? Your car will need the afm hooked up to run, it is what's tells the ecu how much air is coming in..

 

The electrical plug on the afm does not unscrew. There is a spring clip that allows the plug to come off.

IF you unscrewed the JACK on the AFM (that's the part the PLUG is attached to), then most likely the afm is TOAST for sure now.

The JACK never gets taken off. It's permanent party so to speak. Never goes TDY.

The good news is that they are cheap on the forsale sites. Thirty bucks at the most, plus shipping.

 

get one from a junk yard. im sure you can ind one for like 20 bucks.

 

i have an extra one laying around somewhere. i will ship it to you if you just pay for shipping. works perfect.

 

how much is shipping? how would i pay you? would u send it 1st and i sen the money apon arrival?

how do i know for sure this is the problem?

 

ok i fucked with it a lill bit today...im pretty sure the afm is the problem.

would it be possible to take the whole thing out and look at it and possibly fix it?

Is it possible to eliminate the whole AFM and convert it to like a carb breather?

 

I dont know about the AFM on the 7 that much but I doubt they are servicable. As far as eliminating it, you would need to go to a stand alone engine managment and run off a MAP sensor. megasquirt is a good unit that is inexpensive and easy to use.

Do you have the FSM? If not, I would suggest searching the site and D/L it. It helps alot, or get yourself a chiltons manual. It will help you diagnose the issue at hand and pin point your issue. Dont start throwing parts at your car, find the issue and fix it. Throwing parts at it will just get expensive.

Craig

 

GUESS WHAT MOTHER ******* !

i got it running !!!!!!!!!!!!!

i took the AFM apart and fucked with a few things and put it back together. so it runs now. Now i have to fill my clutch fluid back up, cuz it all leaked out again.

 

um.... what exactly did you do inside of it?

plus, there is an ecu you can buy from corksport that totally eliminates it FYI

 

Good job, you fixed it.

Now did you replace your clutch slave or master cylinder? If not, see which one is leaking and go buy a kit to rebuild it, they're relatively inexpensive.

 

there was a little metal arm inside that was bent to ****, and i think some solder joints came off, i tried to solder it back, but wasnt able to, but i bent the arm back and it is fine now. i am going to deal with the clutch today.

 

To test it:
Clip an ohmmeter on the signal pins of the AFM.
The see if the resistance values step up & down as you work the flap.