Yeah........ i was brought to this fact from a friendly neighborhood rx7 owner (from norcaldrift.org). This is what he responded to me.

"oh, on the pictures i see that you have BAC valve blocked off...

thats bad man, that is definitely contributing to flooding issue.

also, with NO BAC valve, the trailing signal is going to be all over the place.

with no BAC valve you can not adjust the idle air, because the idle screw is part of bac valve.

so to adjust idle air you have to use the throttle stop screw and then you messing up the throttle alignment., NO GOOD, can definitely contribute to flooding.

test the timing on front trailing and see if it lines up with red mark, but still, you're getting no idle air....


you see, most of the time, all the problems are people causing themselves"

Can anyone give me any hints on fixing this problem? I have an online fsm that I can look at but it is hard to see detail in it. so one where is the bac valve blocked off on the engine and two where can I connect the vacuum line to correct the problem? If fixing this corrects the issues then I'm set. the car does idle roughly, (pulsates over 1000rpm) kind of sounds like it's got a small street port or something. The power is nice and smooth though. But it is hard to start. Can anyone help me out by pointing out the point where the bac valve is blocked off and where I can reconnect the vacuum hose or what I can do to correct the problem?

BTW thanks to Petex from NCD if he is on this site.

 

You need to stop listening to these idiots.


Wrong.

Wrong.

Wrong - see below.

Funny...he first claims there is no way to adjust the idle (speed), but yet he says you can do this with the throttle stop screw...
So what is right???
YES, you can adjust idle with the throttle stop screw.
WRONG - this does not contribute to flooding.

Is that the same Petex from on here???


-Ted

 

So what the hell could it be? I know there are threads on this already but because they are personally specific the responses are kind of vague to my circumstances. I really dont want to go through the trouble of reinstalling all the emissions so I can do it right and know whats going on......

 

This is not an easy question to answer...
Because the car is modded, it's hard to assume what was and what wasn't changed.

I'd start with the basics...
DO A COMPRESSION TEST.
This is rule out a bad or tired engine.
Do you have a boost gauge that shows idle vacuum?
If you do, how much vacuum does it show and at what idle RPM?


-Ted

 

First, you need to level that AFM.

My car doesn't have emissions, and I don't have the BAC. I have no flooding problems, and the car idles at a sweet 800 rpm.

These are some things you need to do to your car now:
-Compression check, if everything checks out: see next step
-Full tune-up (oil, plugs, coolant, trans/diff oil, etc)
-Send your injectors out to get cleaned if they leak (could be the cause of your flooding issue)
-Perform the FPD banjo bolt mod to eliminate any potential PD leaks

 

The banjo bolt mod has already been done...... I'll take the car to Mazda the next time I get paid so they can do a compression check for me. I'll level the afm tommorow. I'll do a tune up as well. Wouldnt mind sending the injectors off to be inspected/cleaned but I dont trust any shop around here, any suggestions on who I could send them to?

 

Injectors can be sent to either Cruzin Performance or WitchHunter Performance, two of my favorite places.

 

No, don't do that.
Get a $30 compression gauge from your auto parts store, and it'll do that job for you at a fraction of what the Mazda dealer is going to bend you over for.


-Ted

 

HHMMM I searched for the compression test in the archive. couldnt find it. I know you can make a normal compression gauge work but I thought it took a little work. and also where can I get a rotory compression tool? Or am I mistaken and a normal compression gauge will work?

 

sorry to butt in, but your FC is somewhat inspiring. welcome to the club, good luck with the TII.

 

Just remove the check valve or just hold it down so it resets between the pulses.
You can leave the valve alone just to get an absolute compression psi for each rotor.

Used Mazda rotary compressor checkers easily go for $500 on eBay...


-Ted

 

Ted's right. Get a normal compression tester from an auto parts store.

Here is the procedure if you haven't found it yet:
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

Good luck!

BTW, how much did you let the 86 go for?

 

fcdrft7- Thanks! I just felt I needed a new platform to start building up, so I took a leap of faith (in my self).

RETed-Thanks for the advice. I'll go and pick up a compression tester in the up coming weeks (gotta register my daily first).

younG Gunner-Thanks for the link I was looking all over for that. It was a straight and even trade for the FC, no cash involved. He was selling the FC for 2300 though but I had gotten offers for 3500 for my Corolla. The only reason I just didnt take the cash is because I didnt want to be looking around trying to find another project when I already knew of one.

Thanks guy's.