JWteknix

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Hello,my name is james, and this was originally intended for Aaron Cake , but he doesnt accept PMs, so i need some advice. I have been doing alot of research for my fuel system on my new project 88 se, well mostly the pump and assembly part. I have the rest of the system already sorted. My original plan was to use mount 2 walbros in tank using the stock pump assembly, but modified like my friend kevin has done running 1 pump per rail.
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...opic=66911&hl=
But have ran into a problem due to the series of my car he did his using the stock s5 assembly, but when i removed the one from my s4 i noticed a considerible diffrence between the two. The s5 has alot more room to work w/ when setting up the bulkhead fittings, do to the lack of connection terminals on the assembly plate. so i was doin some reseach to figure out what i should do. so was thinking about just gettin my self an s5 pump assembly to work w/ and just wire up the connectons to work w/ the s4 wiring because I couldnt find a way to seal the wires from the pump and level sensor goin through the top of the assembly, if I had made my own from scratch.
Then I stumbled in to Aaron Cake's Midsummer update thread. And it got me thinking of making my own assembly much like his, w/ those connection terminals he made, did they work well? also I noticed he is running a aeromotive external fuel pump and that got me thinking how much less of a possibilty of failure there would be then if I was using two intank walbro fuel pumps, and a lrg external could also out flow both those pumps together, then i noticed how he has a pre-filter before the pump, now is that just a aeromotive inline filter or a special pre-filter. also how was wiring the pump was it just like wiring a standard inline pump? Is there any thing special to it, also where would be a good location for mounting? can you please inform me a little more? Thanks for your time and everything.
James

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I don't accept PMs? Weird....

The problem with dual pump is that one can fail and you would not know about it until you ran into boost and noticed your fuel pressure was too low, or in the case of one pump per rail, no fuel from the secondaries. Then you are having to spend a lot of time trying to scrape the apex seal debris from you turbine housing...

The passthroughs I made worked well, and then just after I started the car I found some commercially available. Then promptly forgot where. I've seen no evidence of leakage even though I generally "top up" my tank when filling.

The Aeromotive pump wires up just like any other pump. Give it 12V and ground, and it will move fuel.

As for mounting, it will depend on where you have room. The location I used on the rear of the storage bin/rear seat tub has been fine.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

dude

you better be making SERIOUS power to need this. the other option is Supra TT pump with Kenne Belle Boost-a-Pump. Should flow at least enough for 450 to the wheels... it's good enough for 600+ on a piston engine

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

yeah aaron they told me that you have choosen to not receive pms. any word on the pre-filter? i am planning between 6-700 rwhp. i will now be running aeromotive external fuel pump 600lbs/hr w/ -10an lines to a spliter where i will go to two -8an lines to -8an post filters then -8an to my kg rails then -6an return to fpr then tank. im planning to be running 1000cc primaries and 1680cc secondaries.
thanks any other info is welcome

arghx

iTrader: (3)

ok well i guess you need it then.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

aaron any ideas about where to find those connector studs?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I believe this is the filter I used:
http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product...sub=7&prod=179

Not to be a jerk, but I think that's totally unrealistic. Also almost pointless unless you are building a full drag car.

I don't think that's enough injector for those power levels.

http://www.fuelsafe.com/

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

aaron thank you vey much for you sharing your knowledge with me and not to be a jerk, this car will be strictly a track driven vehical and is still in the process of being built and i am fully aware that i will not hit my power levels goal strictly on pump gas. i am still researching and planning my setup at the moment. i am also doin a good amount of research on auxilery injection i will be running a cooling mist kit w/ meth. also as for my power level goal i just through those out there those would not be all the time hp #s im looking at somewhere between 6-700 hp max boost one time thing. also where on the fuel safe site are the pass throughs located. thanks james

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You'll find the passthroughs in the downloadable catalog. Their website sucks, but the products are good. In fact, there's plenty of eye candy in the catalog that makes it a worthwhile download.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

looked there and the aeromotive catalogs w/ no luck ill just make some.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

http://www.fuelsafe.com/pdf/Custom.pdf
Page 11.

I was thinking about this a little last night...How I would build a 700HP 2nd gen.

My first choice would be the 20B and a GT42.

If I had to stick with a 13B, then I'd use the REW block for the reinforcements it brings over the S4/S5 block. Full bridgeport, GT42.

Fuel system would use a surge tank without a doubt especially for track use.

Microtech since it's so problem free and immune to noise (in my opinion).

The drivetrain would be the killer. All the TII stuff will be fragile at 700HP. I'd pick up my Summit Racing catalog and call a few transmission manufacturers and see what they make in a 5 speed. Driveshaft would be custom, TII diff would have aftermarket internals and custom half-shafts.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

aaron you are awsome im gonna call and ask witch would be best for the stock sending unit b/c the 2 wire ones dont look like they seal like the other ones. i also went to every hardware store in the 3 surrounding towns and not one carried the m8 nylon nut and bolts i needed to replicate yours. also 20b is way out of the question until i start making real money and have more time to spend on the car. i currently have a s4 tii block with rew seals and springs w/ a very large street port and reinforced rear iron. i am planning on running that w/a gt4094r or gt42r until i inquirer an rew motor witch i will half bridge b/c i have heard nothing but good things about it . as for the trans i am looking into a 6 speed w/ hardened internals and same gearing as stock w/ just an extra gear b/c i like highway driving the diff is tii thinking of kaaz internals the car will only be driven to from and at the track and local meets/shows. i also will be puttin dtreezans sleek head light body kit on it. i figured i would make it look alittle different then my other 2 lol. As for ems i am running pfc

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

aaron 14 guage steel should be thick enough for the assemby top right?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You only need two wires for the sending unit and low level light. If they are listed as tank passthroughs, they are sealed. No harm in getting the 4 wire and only using two either.

Go to a fastener store. In general, hardware stores sell made in China crap as far as nuts and bolts goes.

If you are thinking in terms of money regarding this project, you need to stop right now and think hard about what you want to do. Making a 600-700 HP 2nd gen is going to cost you $30K, whether you do it with a 20B or a 13B. If you use a 13B, you will go through an engine making it work. You need to push a good amount of boost through a 13B to make these power levels and that's a tricky thing to do. A GT42 on a stock port 20B will make 400 RWHP at less then 10 PSI (I've seen it done) and should be putting down 600HP by 16-17 PSI. Easily done on pump gas, and reliable as well. No need for "axillary" injection or other fiddly systems.

"REW" seals are like any other apex seal. Nothing special.

How is the rear iron "reinforced"?

A bridgeport is a bridgeport is a bridgeport. Go full bridge or no bridge. There is no reason to sacrifice the significant flow increase that a full bridge gives you over half.

Get the real GT42R instead of the 4094. The 42R gives you some man-sized exhaust housings choices for big ports that the 4094 doesn't.

From who? HKS dogmission (if you can find one) is $6K.


Get a real EMS for this power level.

12 gauge is better. 14 is pretty thin.