Adjusting TPS on a TII
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Adjusting TPS on a TII
Hi,
I searched but still cant find it. I was wondering where to plug the test lights (Radioshack made) so that I can adjust my TPS?
Thanks!
I searched but still cant find it. I was wondering where to plug the test lights (Radioshack made) so that I can adjust my TPS?
Thanks!
Re: Adjusting TPS on a TII
Originally posted by koukifc3s
Hi,
I searched but still cant find it. I was wondering where to plug the test lights (Radioshack made) so that I can adjust my TPS?
Thanks!
Hi,
I searched but still cant find it. I was wondering where to plug the test lights (Radioshack made) so that I can adjust my TPS?
Thanks!
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=TPS+Adjustment
More directly I used these instructions from further down on the page, they are great to have handy:
quote:Originally posted by Aaron Cake
If you need 4 turns of the TPS screw to adjust things "properly", then there's something else seriously wrong. The proper procedure is below:
Adjusting the TPS is a simple maintenance item that should be preformed at any oil change. The benefits include better gas mileage, better performance and a smoother idle. Adjustment only takes a few minutes if you follow the directions below.
What You Need
· Ohmmeter
· Flathead Screwdriver
· Half an hour
How To Adjust
· Warm the car completely by driving for 20 minutes
· If your car is a turbo, remove the intercooler. Loosen the hose clamps on the inlet and outlet, remove the vacuum line, and then remove the four 10MM bolts. Lift off the cooler. Do this quickly so the car does not cool.
· Unplug the TPS. On 89+ cars, you want to unplug the connector leading from the lower TPS.
· Hold the TPS connector so the hump points up. Connect your meter between top connection and rightmost connection.
· Adjust the stop screw until the meter reads 1K (1000 Ohms)
· Plug the TPS back in
· If necessary, reinstall the intercooler. Don’t overtighten the hose clamps
· Drive the car for a few minutes, then repeat the procedure
Enjoy.
ok, im confused on this. it says:
On my 90 t2 there is only one conector for both tps plungers. It has six wires and six pins. Which two pins do i check the resistance between?
If i adjust it this way, does it matter what the mazda tester (2 leds) reads? What if i adjust it to 1k ohms and the lights are nowhere close? disregard lights and just set to 1k ohms? Try and get a bare medium? I just wanna know how to do it right . I'm just getting tired of trying to set it and being unsure if its adjusted correctly when im done. Plase halp.
-E
· Unplug the TPS. On 89+ cars, you want to unplug the connector leading from the lower TPS.
If i adjust it this way, does it matter what the mazda tester (2 leds) reads? What if i adjust it to 1k ohms and the lights are nowhere close? disregard lights and just set to 1k ohms? Try and get a bare medium? I just wanna know how to do it right . I'm just getting tired of trying to set it and being unsure if its adjusted correctly when im done. Plase halp.
-E
Originally posted by anobii
ok, im confused on this. it says: On my 90 t2 there is only one conector for both tps plungers. It has six wires and six pins. Which two pins do i check the resistance between?
If i adjust it this way, does it matter what the mazda tester (2 leds) reads? What if i adjust it to 1k ohms and the lights are nowhere close? disregard lights and just set to 1k ohms? Try and get a bare medium? I just wanna know how to do it right . I'm just getting tired of trying to set it and being unsure if its adjusted correctly when im done. Plase halp.
-E
ok, im confused on this. it says: On my 90 t2 there is only one conector for both tps plungers. It has six wires and six pins. Which two pins do i check the resistance between?
If i adjust it this way, does it matter what the mazda tester (2 leds) reads? What if i adjust it to 1k ohms and the lights are nowhere close? disregard lights and just set to 1k ohms? Try and get a bare medium? I just wanna know how to do it right . I'm just getting tired of trying to set it and being unsure if its adjusted correctly when im done. Plase halp.
-E
I agree with the statement about using a multimeter. That's the only way I would consider setting it... hell, my multimeter only cost me about $10.
That reminds me, my TPS is out-of-wack, I need to buy a good one.
That reminds me, my TPS is out-of-wack, I need to buy a good one.
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If you already know how to tell your narrow/full range sensors apart, then:
Use a DIGITAL VOLTMETER with a high input impedance ONLY. No Cheapos. If you short things, it is possible that you could fry your ECU. (See DISCLAIMER above.)
The TPS is connected to a 6-pin plug in the front/center of the engine. The pinouts are as follows: NARROW - ground, +5V reference, DATA (0-5v range) FULL - ground, +5V reference, DATA (0-5v range) You can follow the wires to determine which DATA line goes with which sensor. You want to find FULL DATA line first. (Use the battery post or engine block as a ground.) You can find the data lines by turning on the ignition, and turning the throttle. Look for the pins whose voltage varies when you turn the throttle.
FULL - Probe the FULL DATA line. It should read close to 0.8v. (Safe range is probably 0.6 to 1.0.) If it is off, take a large pair of pliers, and gently bend the entire metal TPS "platform" left or right as necessary to bring the voltage to 0.8v. A little goes a long way, so be gentle. Once the voltage is close to 0.8v, you are done with the FULL range.
NARROW - Probe the NARROW DATA line. It should read roughly 1.0v (but it could be way off.) Turn the TPS adjust screw until you get 1.0v. Don't forget to "blip" the throttle to make sure it has settled. Double-check the connector using the method above. (It should be correct, only one side active.) If both (or neither) sides are active, you'll need to fall back on the method above. When you are finished adjusting, double-check the voltage for the NARROW DATA again. It should be close to 1.0v (0.75 - 1.25 is tolerable.)
Congratulations - You are done.
Use a DIGITAL VOLTMETER with a high input impedance ONLY. No Cheapos. If you short things, it is possible that you could fry your ECU. (See DISCLAIMER above.)
The TPS is connected to a 6-pin plug in the front/center of the engine. The pinouts are as follows: NARROW - ground, +5V reference, DATA (0-5v range) FULL - ground, +5V reference, DATA (0-5v range) You can follow the wires to determine which DATA line goes with which sensor. You want to find FULL DATA line first. (Use the battery post or engine block as a ground.) You can find the data lines by turning on the ignition, and turning the throttle. Look for the pins whose voltage varies when you turn the throttle.
FULL - Probe the FULL DATA line. It should read close to 0.8v. (Safe range is probably 0.6 to 1.0.) If it is off, take a large pair of pliers, and gently bend the entire metal TPS "platform" left or right as necessary to bring the voltage to 0.8v. A little goes a long way, so be gentle. Once the voltage is close to 0.8v, you are done with the FULL range.
NARROW - Probe the NARROW DATA line. It should read roughly 1.0v (but it could be way off.) Turn the TPS adjust screw until you get 1.0v. Don't forget to "blip" the throttle to make sure it has settled. Double-check the connector using the method above. (It should be correct, only one side active.) If both (or neither) sides are active, you'll need to fall back on the method above. When you are finished adjusting, double-check the voltage for the NARROW DATA again. It should be close to 1.0v (0.75 - 1.25 is tolerable.)
Congratulations - You are done.
Last edited by Josepi; Mar 11, 2004 at 08:23 AM.
Not that's a good writeup. I have always set the narrow range TPS via ohms, although volts permissible, then double checked the Mazda "check connector" to be safe. Best of both worlds.
Using test lights or voltage at idle readings will get your idle setting done, but may not show a worn out TPS resistor.
I pull the TPS connector off and clip on a needle type VOM.
The reason is because as the TPS wears, it can give non-linear or inconsistent signals to the ECU.
You can see this as you work the TPS plunger in & out, the needle should swing smoothly from 0 to ~5K ohms.
A worn out TPS may give 1K ohms at idle, but have a drop out further up the scale.
I had one go open at the top which made the S5 ECU go nuts, giving random fuel cuts.
I pull the TPS connector off and clip on a needle type VOM.
The reason is because as the TPS wears, it can give non-linear or inconsistent signals to the ECU.
You can see this as you work the TPS plunger in & out, the needle should swing smoothly from 0 to ~5K ohms.
A worn out TPS may give 1K ohms at idle, but have a drop out further up the scale.
I had one go open at the top which made the S5 ECU go nuts, giving random fuel cuts.
Originally posted by SureShot
Using test lights or voltage at idle readings will get your idle setting done, but may not show a worn out TPS resistor.
I pull the TPS connector off and clip on a needle type VOM.
The reason is because as the TPS wears, it can give non-linear or inconsistent signals to the ECU.
You can see this as you work the TPS plunger in & out, the needle should swing smoothly from 0 to ~5K ohms.
A worn out TPS may give 1K ohms at idle, but have a drop out further up the scale.
I had one go open at the top which made the S5 ECU go nuts, giving random fuel cuts.
Using test lights or voltage at idle readings will get your idle setting done, but may not show a worn out TPS resistor.
I pull the TPS connector off and clip on a needle type VOM.
The reason is because as the TPS wears, it can give non-linear or inconsistent signals to the ECU.
You can see this as you work the TPS plunger in & out, the needle should swing smoothly from 0 to ~5K ohms.
A worn out TPS may give 1K ohms at idle, but have a drop out further up the scale.
I had one go open at the top which made the S5 ECU go nuts, giving random fuel cuts.
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