Adjusted TPS and now crappy start
03-10-05, 06:27 AM
#1
Adjusted TPS and now crappy start
I adjusted my TPS and idler a few days ago....
After I adjusted it, the car started to run a little richer than it has been and started to sputter at idle. I put my presilencer in the next day and the car doesn't like to start in the morning. It seems like it's flooded because the EFI fuse trick works every time.
What do you guys think I should do about this? Recheck the TPS? put the cat back on (even though the thing is gutted)? Anything?
After I adjusted it, the car started to run a little richer than it has been and started to sputter at idle. I put my presilencer in the next day and the car doesn't like to start in the morning. It seems like it's flooded because the EFI fuse trick works every time.
What do you guys think I should do about this? Recheck the TPS? put the cat back on (even though the thing is gutted)? Anything?
03-10-05, 07:14 AM
#2
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what is the EFI fuse trick? Pulling the fuse and trying to crank or what?
anyhow, I jsut adjusted my tps the other day and I also am having similiar problems.
does it idle ok and run ok now? mine does but it sometimes acts flooded. never did that before it just always idled way to high when I got it.
I am interested in what the experts have to say
anyhow, I jsut adjusted my tps the other day and I also am having similiar problems.
does it idle ok and run ok now? mine does but it sometimes acts flooded. never did that before it just always idled way to high when I got it.
I am interested in what the experts have to say
03-10-05, 01:42 PM
#5
well...It wasn't idling fine. It was loping and idling at 1500-2k....put it this way....it was idling high enough that it didn't need the idler screw to be touching the linkage at all.k Now, after adjusting the idler and the TPS, if I get it started I have to keep my foot into it until it warms up. then it can hold an idle...but not a good one...
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03-11-05, 04:50 AM
#13
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Check the timing for starters. You say you checked for vac leaks, I say you didn't check good enough. I don't blame you though, sometimes they are almost IMPOSSIBLE to find. Its when all the other things fail to solve your problem that you're left to do one thing.
Rip apart the whole intake, replace all gaskets with new, torque to spec, and replace vac lines.
We can start by checking your fast idle cam on the throttlebody. After the car has warmed up completley, pull off the throttle body elbow (car off of course) and look down the TB. THe primary plates should be pretty much shut, as in like 1mm of clearence, no more. If its a significant gap your thermowax is stuck shut.
Next, check the BAC valve as well, AFTER the car has wamed up (car off of course). You can take the tube that connects to the BAC (not the coolant one) and runs to the TID, pull it off (from the TID not the BAV) and try to blow through it. You should not be able to. If you can, the BAC and/or Accelerated startup selenoid is jammed open when its not supposed to be. Again car must be warmed up for this check.
If thats no good, you can check your EGR valve diaphram. Download the FSM and look at the routing diagram to where the egr vac line goes to the selenoid, pull off the line and try to blow or suck through it. There should be movement of air, but no further. Meaning if your blowing on it, it should just blow in a little and stop. If it doesn't and you can empty your lungs into the tube, your EGR diaphram is the problem.
If none of that works, I would suggest an intake rebuild. It'll cost you under 100$ and alot of time (price is for gaskets) to clean off the old ones and route the vac lines, but its totally worth it. Im still doing this, and I've finally learned to do it right. My results will be posted sunday..
Rip apart the whole intake, replace all gaskets with new, torque to spec, and replace vac lines.
We can start by checking your fast idle cam on the throttlebody. After the car has warmed up completley, pull off the throttle body elbow (car off of course) and look down the TB. THe primary plates should be pretty much shut, as in like 1mm of clearence, no more. If its a significant gap your thermowax is stuck shut.
Next, check the BAC valve as well, AFTER the car has wamed up (car off of course). You can take the tube that connects to the BAC (not the coolant one) and runs to the TID, pull it off (from the TID not the BAV) and try to blow through it. You should not be able to. If you can, the BAC and/or Accelerated startup selenoid is jammed open when its not supposed to be. Again car must be warmed up for this check.
If thats no good, you can check your EGR valve diaphram. Download the FSM and look at the routing diagram to where the egr vac line goes to the selenoid, pull off the line and try to blow or suck through it. There should be movement of air, but no further. Meaning if your blowing on it, it should just blow in a little and stop. If it doesn't and you can empty your lungs into the tube, your EGR diaphram is the problem.
If none of that works, I would suggest an intake rebuild. It'll cost you under 100$ and alot of time (price is for gaskets) to clean off the old ones and route the vac lines, but its totally worth it. Im still doing this, and I've finally learned to do it right. My results will be posted sunday..
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