chatch

Like I said I adjusted it using my multimeter and got it to 1.0 exactly. Now when I come off of high revs the RPM's drop real low, like 100, and the dummy lights come on but the car doesnt stall. It comes real close though. Anybody know whats up with my ****? O and when I was adjusting it something was clicking while I was doin it, what was that?

Thanx in advance

-Matt

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I assume you adjusted it with an Ohmmeter to read 1K (or was that 3K....I don't remember) with the CAR TURNED OFF? I find the "test light" method or the "voltage method" to be very useless...I always adjust for resistance...

Oh, and you did plug the TPS back in, right?

chatch

I tested it for voltage. I let the car get hot, popped off my IC, turned the key ON, put the ground form my meter on the battery neg., and stuck the RED wire in the slot with the GREEN wire with RED stripe. Just like I read. Is that wrong?

Fingers

No that is correct. i've done this method also, but i don't think its set properly. Might be a faulty TPS

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

beat the crap out of the car pull over imidiatly, bust out and adjust the tps make sure u adjust RIGHT in between those 2 clicks...

HAILERS

The clicking sound as you were adjusting could have been two things. One could be the bac. It operates at around 125 hertz. Next time you hear that clicking, pull the plug off the bac. The other more plausable thing would be the switching and relief solenoids switching on and off. That is what is happening as the idiotic lights go on and off. They represent the switching and relief solenoids engaging and disengaging. I'd say if you idle drops to 100 on deceleration you need to take a look at the adjustment of the dashpot. See the manual on line. And as a parting shot at some remarks from above * I find the ohm method a total waste of time, effort, and money. If a person uses the light method, then takes a meter to his tps output, green/red wire, he will see 1 volt approx. conclusive proof that if the person had just taken a meter and put it on the green/red wire in the first place and turned the screw til he had one volt, all would have been peach keen. Now that I've stuck a sharp stick in someones eye, the ohms method is actually ok and is real good for checking the full range of the tps for opens and shorts. Frankly don't care what method you use. Its something that can be arrived at from several directions(the tps setting). Don't have your feet set in concrete.

Taranis

Did you jumper the inital set coupler before you adjusted the TPS? That part was missing from your description.

RETed

Time to adjust the idle mixtrure screw on the passenger side strut tower right next to the stock boost sensor...



-Ted

Fingers

Hey ted, does that apply for 87 GXL's also??

RETed

It applies to all 1986-1988 Zenki models, both turbo and non-turbo.



-Ted

MasteRX

What's a Zenki model?

chatch

Thankx guys Ill try some of that stuff out, but first I have a bigger problem, gonna make a new post though. I have this Turbo II and I cant even drive the ******* thing!

-Matt

RETed

http://fc3s-pro.com/abb.html



-Ted

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

how exactly do u adjust that little mixture screw on that firewall on my 86 base that u are talking about?

HAILERS

e

RETed

Damn, I think that was the SHORTEST reply I have ever seen from HAILERS in a long time!



-Ted

RX-Revvin

I noticed that too!

nima_taba

Hey I get that clicking noise too...when I touch my throttle bar/tps setup even the SLIGHTEST bit I get a click, and another one when I let go of it.

Incidentally, my TPS is adjusted for exactly 0.95V-4.7V...no spikes, and it still drives like ****.
Could these clickings be the reason..and what can I do about them???

Thanks,
Nima