So I went to buy gas last night, and the 87 octane (10% enthanol) was 10cents cheaper than the dino 85 octane I usually buy. Yes I have an n/a, but I had used higher octanes before without any problems (probably less gas mileage and power, but meh-- i didn't have problems).

About 5 minutes after I left the gas station, the check engine light comes on and the car starts to lose power. I have to downshift to keep speed and then the check engine light goes off and its driving ok. 5 minutes later, same thing. Then on the ride home, it seemed like it didn't have as much power. My idle went to **** too, it was a very solid 1100 before i refueled, now it sits down at 200 until it just dies.

Granted, I know its better to run low octanes on an n/a, but could midgrade corn gas really cause this stupid *** problem?

 

What the hell is corn gas?! And why risk your motor for 10 cents/gallon?!

 

cause N/As arent picky about gas or octane, theyre actually more powerful on the lowest octane


old GTU racers used to use 80 octane

 

did you get the cornhole oil? LOL

 

10% ethenol makes no difference what so ever. Heck, half the cars in CA run on it in the winter and nobody even knows.

Your problem is from something else, than the type of gas.

Read the check engine code and find out instead of wasting your time asking if gas could be the problem... sounds like your engine is in limp mode anyway.

 

Icemark is correct. 10% Ethanol gas is everywhere. It used to be the law that you had to post it, but now you don't.

I suspect bad gas period....that is, the place you bought it had water in the gas.

 

we get ethanol gas here in az. never had any problems on my 12a

 

I wouldn't put 85 octane in my lawn mower.

 

I can't get lower than 87 octane around here. I've debated showing up to a race track and asking where their "Rotary Race Gas" pump is, but I think I'll get laughed out of the state for wondering where their 80 octane is.

One nice thing in Iowa, 87 is pure gas. It's more expensive than 89 (ethanol blend, we have so much corn that ethanol is basically free).

-=Russ=-

 

I run ethanol all the time. Never had a problem with it.

Since it happened immediately after filling up, I would suspect the fuel first. It may have had water in it, or did you see a fuel truck while you were there. Sometimes filling the underground tanks will stir up sediment/contaminents.

Put some Heet in your tank and change the fuel filter.

 

thanks, its what i figured, but havent gotten around to check the light yet, been to busy. thanks mark.

 

We are at a higher altitude. Its everywhere here.

 

i'd do a compression check if it was running that badly. i wasted alot of time chasing probs. once when it turned out to be a seal problem.

 

I have had the same type of problem when I put additives in my fuel, carb cleaner etc. When I use them after starting and stoping several times and the car gets really warmed up, it won't start. After I let it cool down, it starts right up and runs fine.

J

 

I have an 86 and have never changed the Ign coils. I am checking to see if maybe that is the problem, instead of the additives.

j

 

only problem with ethanol is that ethanol is miscible in water... IE... if theirs water in the underground storage tank.. the ethanol can allow the water to mix with the gasoline and produce really BAD gas...

 

I hope your not talking about that new E85 stuff I believe thats like 85% ethanol or somthing.

 

ethanol is not bad for your ca.r..
like all cars can use it... i think the ony thing tha tmatters the rubber seals??
you just wont get as good gas mileage... but your engine will run cooler

 

I haven't seen the cel light come on since that night. Theres a lasty surging that happens when I'm trying to cruise on the interstate though. Feels like there is an extra 10hp thats there and then gone, comes and goes in an on/off fashion.

I know its not the vdi or aux ports because I unplugged the air pumo (epump) when I first noticed the surgign to rule it out.

TPS was checked and set last october, I haven't had a bit of trouble with it.

Checked thelights:

17 Feedback system for O2 sensor
Damnit. Could this do it? Only thing though, when the CEL light came on before, theres no way I could have been in closed loop, I was in town excellerating from a stop...

25 Solenoid valve - pressure regulator control
Not sure whats up here, the solenoid is plugged in and was workin last time I checked and reset codes (couple months ago)

30 Solenoid valve - split air bypass - expected, removed emissions
31 solenoid valve - relief 1 - expected, removed emissions
32 Solenoid valve - switching - expected, removed emissions
33 Solenoid valve - port air bypass - expected, removed emissions
38 Solenoid valve - accelerated warmup system and air supply valve - expected, tbmod

 

unless your car is a certified FFV (flex fuel vehicle) it cant run E85. But the normal 10-15% ethanol shouldnt affect your car at all.

 

When Union 76 started using ethanol instead of MTBE here in CA I switched immediately. (MTBE is some SERIOUSLY nasty ****!) Both my '86 GXL and my wife's '93 Nissan truck ran kinda crappy for about half a tank and then were fine. I assume it was the ethanol breaking loose sludge in the fuel system. The same might be true for you if the problem goes away before the end of the tank. If it goes away right after the next time you fill it, you probably got a tank of fuel with a lot of water in it. I got fuel for my bike at a little mom 'n' pop station once and it just flat died on the freeway a few miles down the road. I opened the drains on the carbs and dumped over a quart of water on the ground! (out of a 5 gallon tank) For some reason, the bike ran better after that...

 

Ya I know the 10% ethanol is fine but I dont think that E85 is fine unless your vehicle is set up to run that stuff.

 

think you are confusing Ethenol with Methenol.

Ethenol could be run straight through with no seal problem...

Methonal wiil start dissolving rubber and seals at 7%

 

Ugh... Check the TPS again, I know it might seem silly but seriously, I have to adjust that damn thing about every 8,000 miles.

 

Hmm, look into that code 25 a little more. If the PRCS valve is somehow getting screwy on you, that would explain the instant bursts of horsepower (when energized, the valve shuts off vac to the FPR, effectively raising the fuel rail pressures)...

Just unplug the connector for troubleshooting purposes...