Adaptronic on a mostly stock S5 vert?
#30
Sharp Claws
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but yeah, power per dollar it works out to be like $100 per hp... not including tuning charges or gas or a wideband or, you get the point.
#31
Information Regurgitator
it does serve a purpose if someone tracks the car and they are restricted to class rules of engine modifications or have a highly modified n/a. it also comes in handy for those who plan to turbo the n/a engine down the road.
but yeah, power per dollar it works out to be like $100 per hp... not including tuning charges or gas or a wideband or, you get the point.
but yeah, power per dollar it works out to be like $100 per hp... not including tuning charges or gas or a wideband or, you get the point.
#33
Sharp Claws
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bad example, build a large peripheral port engine with a tuned exhaust and you will see 300whp figures where a 2.5% difference gets 7.5 hp versus 5. but then again, i have never seen anyone manage to run a stock ECU on a PP anyways, too much work for zero control. point is there is always some exceptions.
spending $500 for a few measly horses isn't uncommon when you are bracket racing in the SCCA or other clubs. hell, $500 for a set of tires that only last a few races isn't uncommon either.
honestly my personal opinion is if you have a stock intake manifold and exhaust port sleeve "winglets" then it isn't worth bothering with a standalone unless you really are hard up for a few more hp and have exhausted all other mods first.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 07-08-15 at 08:56 AM.
#34
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shoot we just spent $300 to LOWER the hp. actually its going to be like $600 after dyno time. we are allowed a MAXIMUM of 136rwhp on a dynojet that reads high.
#35
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we did an ECU in an FC race car in 2003, and the peak power gain is small, but you do gain a bunch of power below and above peak, so overall the thing is faster.
you're looking at about 10-15hp gains at 4000rpm, 3-5hp gain at 6500, and it can hold the peak hp number to 7k instead of falling off
you're looking at about 10-15hp gains at 4000rpm, 3-5hp gain at 6500, and it can hold the peak hp number to 7k instead of falling off
#36
Sharp Claws
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we did an ECU in an FC race car in 2003, and the peak power gain is small, but you do gain a bunch of power below and above peak, so overall the thing is faster.
you're looking at about 10-15hp gains at 4000rpm, 3-5hp gain at 6500, and it can hold the peak hp number to 7k instead of falling off
you're looking at about 10-15hp gains at 4000rpm, 3-5hp gain at 6500, and it can hold the peak hp number to 7k instead of falling off
but yeah, alot of intake and exhaust mods do help the mid range a bit, but also tend to hurt bottom end throttle response on street cars.
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iirc from my tuning experience the magic peak number is based on the intake, on the S4 it was 7350. never got to test numerous S5s to see the correlated peak power RPM or if it was tied to the intake or not.
but yeah, alot of intake and exhaust mods do help the mid range a bit, but also tend to hurt bottom end throttle response on street cars.
but yeah, alot of intake and exhaust mods do help the mid range a bit, but also tend to hurt bottom end throttle response on street cars.
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thats what i'd expect, but we took the race to the dyno and added fuel and pulled timing and gained hp, so i only know that every time i dyno it never goes to plan!
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lmao, this was a piston engine. we were trying to detune it, as we're only allowed a certain hp #, and we're over. typical dyno day, everything we did went wrong, and we ended up making more power than when we started.
#43
Licensed Zip Tie Mechanic
I'd be interested to find out what considerations I need to take for this - so I'll keep an eye out for that How to (even though the base map won't be necessarily what I need).
Will you post a link when that's available?
#44
I wrote the map this morning, just waiting for Goopy Performance to test it out on one of their shop vehicles( all of the cars here are turbo) If you have an S4 vert that is turbo, then I would just use the Turbo base map that comes with the ECU.
We do offer remote tuning, its $150 with purchase of the ECU. I have a lot of experience with these ecus and it usually gets more cars tuned in this time frame of 10 ecu files to 1 bar of boost. Above this requires another session.
We do offer remote tuning, its $150 with purchase of the ECU. I have a lot of experience with these ecus and it usually gets more cars tuned in this time frame of 10 ecu files to 1 bar of boost. Above this requires another session.
#45
Licensed Zip Tie Mechanic
I wrote the map this morning, just waiting for Goopy Performance to test it out on one of their shop vehicles( all of the cars here are turbo) If you have an S4 vert that is turbo, then I would just use the Turbo base map that comes with the ECU.
We do offer remote tuning, its $150 with purchase of the ECU. I have a lot of experience with these ecus and it usually gets more cars tuned in this time frame of 10 ecu files to 1 bar of boost. Above this requires another session.
We do offer remote tuning, its $150 with purchase of the ECU. I have a lot of experience with these ecus and it usually gets more cars tuned in this time frame of 10 ecu files to 1 bar of boost. Above this requires another session.
I should note, I already have the computer in hand - my husband bought it for me for my birthday a couple years ago.
#47
MECP Certified Installer
Thread Starter
I must be the luckiest unlucky person when it comes to RX7 electronics because my CPU is fuku but everything that needs to work on it works. My ECU also will not throw codes or go into limp mode, but the car runs and works perfectly.
I have been wondering for about year now if my oil metering pump was working or not. At my old job I was driving 80 miles a day to and from work and would hit 3,000 miles very quickly with barely any loss in oil and no, the oil was not saturated with gasoline. I premix fairly heavy so I am not worried about it, but I did a little test yesterday and today. I unplugged the relief solenoid so that the air pump would just dump all air and the check engine light never came on. I should have had at least code 17 and 31. Nope, ECU doesn't give a ****. The car runs like a dream with no issues.
I am going to go knock on some wood now.
Really super interested in the adaptronic with an S5 na base map and I like the fact that it is basically (other than rep-pinning stuff) plug and play and can tune itself with a wide band. Probably going to be a few months because I just dropped $2200 on a transmission but, thanks turblown for going out of your way to make a base map.
#48
I read that on the plug and play unit you need to move some pins around. Details on that?
I must be the luckiest unlucky person when it comes to RX7 electronics because my CPU is fuku but everything that needs to work on it works. My ECU also will not throw codes or go into limp mode, but the car runs and works perfectly.
I have been wondering for about year now if my oil metering pump was working or not. At my old job I was driving 80 miles a day to and from work and would hit 3,000 miles very quickly with barely any loss in oil and no, the oil was not saturated with gasoline. I premix fairly heavy so I am not worried about it, but I did a little test yesterday and today. I unplugged the relief solenoid so that the air pump would just dump all air and the check engine light never came on. I should have had at least code 17 and 31. Nope, ECU doesn't give a ****. The car runs like a dream with no issues.
I am going to go knock on some wood now.
Really super interested in the adaptronic with an S5 na base map and I like the fact that it is basically (other than rep-pinning stuff) plug and play and can tune itself with a wide band. Probably going to be a few months because I just dropped $2200 on a transmission but, thanks turblown for going out of your way to make a base map.
I must be the luckiest unlucky person when it comes to RX7 electronics because my CPU is fuku but everything that needs to work on it works. My ECU also will not throw codes or go into limp mode, but the car runs and works perfectly.
I have been wondering for about year now if my oil metering pump was working or not. At my old job I was driving 80 miles a day to and from work and would hit 3,000 miles very quickly with barely any loss in oil and no, the oil was not saturated with gasoline. I premix fairly heavy so I am not worried about it, but I did a little test yesterday and today. I unplugged the relief solenoid so that the air pump would just dump all air and the check engine light never came on. I should have had at least code 17 and 31. Nope, ECU doesn't give a ****. The car runs like a dream with no issues.
I am going to go knock on some wood now.
Really super interested in the adaptronic with an S5 na base map and I like the fact that it is basically (other than rep-pinning stuff) plug and play and can tune itself with a wide band. Probably going to be a few months because I just dropped $2200 on a transmission but, thanks turblown for going out of your way to make a base map.
As it stands you should not have to move any pins around when using an S5 PNP on your S5 wiring harness.
#49
MECP Certified Installer
Thread Starter
Awesome! Thanks Turblown for your taking the time to upload an s5 na base map!
#50
Licensed Zip Tie Mechanic