RyCeKiLlEr

Okay, I just read in my manual that if the hose at the bottom of the ACV *starts* blowing air at 1500-2500rpms that the ACV is workin good. Now, my quesiton is, My hose blows at idle, then increases pressure as the rpms climb. Im just wondering if thats normal? i was a tad bit confused by the manual, since it does have air comin out at 1500, but also below as well. SHould i just put on a different ACV thing? cuz i have a spare.

I fail emissions bad at IDLE, thats the reason for why i'm doin this

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Your ACV is bad.

HAILERS

All depends. The car has to be warmed up first. Once warm, you should not get any flow out the overboard relief port(my name for the place you describe.

A warmed up engine should not dump until you reach 3800 rpm. Until then you might feel a whisp of air but that's all.

The most likely problem lies in some mixed up vac hoses. You have two vac hose just above the acv. One is for the relief solenoid, the other for the switching solenoid.

Start the car and idle it full warm. See if you have a vacuum being pulled on those two hose just above the acv. Just pull one at a time off and see if you feel a vacuum on the hose. Both should have a vacuum.

I'm betting one does not have a vacuum.

So pretend with me that the forward hose did not have a vacuum. It is fed by the BLUE solenoid from the other side of the engine. It only feeds a vacuum if the solenoid is energized. So at idle, pull the Blue solenoids plug off and then shove it back on. Can you feel the solenoid click???? IF not, then there lies your problem. When energized, it ports a vacuum to the front hose just above the acv, which in turn closes off that relief port where all your air pump air is being dumped overboard. Not good if you want to pass emissions.

Now here is the deal. The Blue solenoid should be energized at idle with a warm engine. A couple of things can cause that to not happen. One is a TPS not set correctly. Second is a whacked transistor in the ECU. There is 12v on that solenoid plug all the time the car is running. What activates the solenoid, is a GROUND from the ECU.

Your car will probably pass like a champ once you get the airpump air going where it should. That place is the PORT AIR. PORT AIR is air that is sent directly to your exaust port diffusers.

So go out there and see if you have vacuum at those two hose and if there is a clicking sound at your Blue solenoid when the plug is taken on and off. Then write back.

Also write back and tell us if you have a digital meter to work with. No meter makes life very hard. Also tell me how you set your tps. Using the two light method or ??????????

RyCeKiLlEr

ehehehehehehe guess what guys, the hose that goes back to the cat wasnt hooked up at the point where it goes into the lower manifold. Im thinking maaaaaybe thats it.
AHHHHHHHH i will let you guys know tommorow

HAILERS

Not really. If the air is relieving overboard at the bottom of the acv, it sure isn't going to make any difference if the split air pipe is on or off.

The only hedge I'll make on the above sentence is.......if the air was dumping overboard as you described in your first post and the engine was stone cold when that was happening. That would be more/less normal....cold engine.

hugues

If you get bored,
you can read:

rx-7 86-88 technical page

under emissions->seconday air injection

hugues -

RyCeKiLlEr

Okay, ran it through emissions again and it failed. However, it passed both HC and CO on cruise. But failed Idle with only 560 HC instead of 1880 as before. It also failed CO with 3.3 instead of 6.1.
SO..... the ACV is obviously working since it lowered the readings a lot. What else could this be?



BTW: TPS is adjusted to give about .9 ohm and is at 5.1 WOT

hummmm what else could this bee.....
thanks,
LUke

RyCeKiLlEr

One thing, my EGR is blocked off, could that be causing all the emissions? i wouldnt think so from what i've heard about how little the egr does on our cars.

HAILERS

I pass a 86 each year with no egr. I challange anybody to have better readings than that car.

With the car fully warmned up, and I mean fully, take that dump hose off that you mentioned before. Is it blowing or not. Should not be blowing at idle. A whisp is ok.

Should not dump air until you rev the engine to 3800 where upon it relieves itself.

If it is not dumping at idle and does dump at 3800 then try this.......carefully remove your Split Air solenoid, using care not to drop the poppet valve and spring (itty bitty tiny). Now leave the poppet and spring out and reinstall the solenoid. Do the same with your Port Air solenoid. Now go get an inspection sticker.

The above paragraph is worthless if your Relief valve is dumping all the time. Relief valve being in the acv and controlled by the Relief Solenoid.

HAILERS

ACV picture:

gsracer

do you have to pass visual?

nonameo

OT a little but...

I am going to have stand alone EFI, should I have it run closed loop @ idle? I have no emissions... the ACV is still on car though.

RyCeKiLlEr

HAILERS: why did you say
"to If it is not dumping at idle and does dump at 3800 then try this.......carefully remove your Split Air solenoid, using care not to drop the poppet valve and spring (itty bitty tiny). Now leave the poppet and spring out and reinstall the solenoid. Do the same with your Port Air solenoid. Now go get an inspection sticker."

why would i need to do those things you mentioned if it does dump at 3800 and not at idle. It is runnin perfect like that because that is how its supposed to run. Its just not passing emissions.

IMPORTANT: my idle according to their computers was at 490rpm, i think maybe i should jack it up to 900 or so? seems like it would have a difference
are their rpm guages real accurate? in car, i'd say i was runnin at about 600rpms, Another weird problem is that it wont always idle at the same spot, sometimes it will idle around 900, sometimes down at 600, With the TPS disconnected it idles right at 600 everytime tho...