88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

so heres where i stand.
i have this pic and plan to keep the air bleeds for the primary and secondary injectors.


im running a E6k and i will run the MAP sensor according to hitmans site...



now where im stuck is i want to run my charcoal canister. im keepin my BAC along with thermowax and water lines to the BAC. i cant find anything on where i run the BAC water lines. i know i have a water nipple on the rear iron. im not sure what connects to that?
i also need to run my purge valve.
so these few lines have me stuck and i keep confusing myself. im confused now!!!
once i sit and think about it ill post more.

could someone help me with what im lost on??

S4 TII

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

so after more searching i found this.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...rcoal+canister
im thinking mine didnt come with a purge valve?
can i use any 1 way check valve?


**edit**
more searching.....
im going to be running a filter right off the turbo ( in know i shouldnt) how am i going to get fresh air for the purge??


the 2ND pic is what im talking about. can i just run it to a vaccum nipple on the manifold?? if so which one?

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

ok i think i got it all figured out.
LOL
im going to run the top nipple off the oil filer to the charcoal canister.
the bottom nipple will go to a 1 wat check valve then to one of the nipples on the intake manifold on the front side (towards the rad)
run the fuel tank vent normal to the charcoal canister


now for the water lines...
i think ill run the nipple coming off the rear iron to the TB so the thermowax will function. exit the TB to the BAC. exit the BAC to the nipple on the back of the water pump.

does his sound allright??
the thermowax doesnt need the vaccum lines does it?

NZConvertible

The coolant lines are shown in the Cooling System chapter of the FSM. Coolant runs for the nipple on the rear iron to the thermowax on the TB, though the BAC valve and into the nipple on the back of the water pump.

The purge valve is not a check valve, it's very different. All FC's came with a purge valve.

That's not where fresh air comes from, that's where purge air goes to when the engine's under boost. Personally I wouldn't bother.

Nope...

Bad idea. You've mixed up to completely different systems. It looks like one, but there are two different jobs happening. One is absorbing fuel vapours from the fuel tank (which the charcoal canister does) and the other is ventilating the sump. The charcoal canister has nothing to do with the latter. I'm pretty sure that "MODIFIED" schematic simply won't work...

I took the lazy option and simply open-vented both the sump and fuel tank vapour line. I attached two lengths of fuel hose to the nipples on the il filler neck and centre plate and a vac line to the tank vent hard line, and ran all three under the car and zip-tied them to the fuel hard lines. This way they open-vented but any vapour are out of the engine bay causing no problems.

No.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

hahahah,
well damn.
i guess i confused myself more.
id like to keep the charcoal canister intact though. id rather not have to deal with any fuel smell.
im thinkin id get asked 10 times a day if im leaking fuel if i ran under the car. does this happen to you? if not i just might do that.
thanks for the help though!

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Aren't you running a standalone?

If so, kill the thermowax, the standalone can control the fast idle.

NZConvertible

I've never once smelt fuel vapour, even after leaving the car in a closed garage for days.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

with the BAC??
<<<<<haltech NOOB!


good to know!
how far did you run them down the fuel hard lines?

NZConvertible

Yep.

Not far, they run horizontal for maybe a foot.