treewojima

Officer ruled it was not my fault in any way, so the other driver's insurance is going to cover it. It's a 1987 NA, ran like a champ beforehand, now I'm not sure if there's any major damage since I can't open the hood without something like a crowbar.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...0101256-02.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...0101256-01.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...0101256-00.jpg

The interior is in pretty lousy condition, it's missing a head unit at the moment, trim and seat are messed up, but that's all unrelated to the crash. Craigslist in my area puts one in good condition at around $1500 or so, I got mine for $2k a few years ago and put about another thousand into it. Right now it just LOOKS like it needs to go to a body shop, but I can't check the radiator or any other parts right up there behind the front bumper. Thing I'd be most concerned about would be the overflow tank and the headlights, since those are right up there in front.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

blue book value is around $2500 in fair condition, repairing the car will cost about the same amount. your best bet is to just have them do the repairs or you can take the total out money and buy another 7 in better condition. doing the repairs at a cheaper shop after getting a high quality estimate will leave you some money to get the other things fixed.

don't be surprised if the other driver's insurance tries to say you were still at fault though, since the damage is all in the front of your car.

barnett87rx7

iTrader: (1)

thats barley any damage rip off the hood because it is going to need to be replaced anyways and check out the engine bay then turn he key to the on position and check to see if the lights still work... If I were you I would go to an expensive shop and get an estimate then take that money and go buy a roller in good condition and swap the parts you need

lunardeathgod

At least check if there are any major damages, because most of the time, as soon as a car gets into accident it will never run the same again. IMO if you can get a new 7, just swap all the parts u put into the old one and part out the old 7.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

sucks man, looks like it was pretty nice before the wreck

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

The front bumper was hit hard enough to bend the fender like that?
I would be willing to bet that they'll just pay you off and total it. If you get the option to buy it back cheap do so for a parts car, or strip everything you want off of it, and then let them take it.

Donovan N.

Don't forget to tell the insurance company how much your neck hurts now

treewojima

I'm not even sure if I want another 7 at this point. Don't get me wrong, I've learned everything I know about cars on this baby, including driving stick, engine repairs, etc. I love her to death. But, she gets horrible gas mileage, and I have this buggering thought that the driveshaft U-joints are going bad, and I can't afford to repair that kind of damage, on top of the accident. I can't afford a car that gets 18 MPG, as much as I love the sound of the engine and the shape/handling of the chassis.

It's just a lousy situation. I don't want to lose the car, but I really can't afford to keep her, and want to move on to something faster. Le sigh.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

I get 18mpg driving the **** out of my TII. You should be getting better than that.

TeamFervor'sSavannah

Insurance fraud 101 =D

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

I think the mechanical parts should be fine, except maybe the headlights, and then I think only the housing. But you're looking at ~$500 each for fender, fender, bumper, hood, meaning they'll probably call it totaled and pay you the blue book for your car (see www.kbb.com) or a lowball definition of it. I think you could get a replacement car that's faster or better on the gas, but not both unless it's newer and thus more expensive. IMO if you want similar speed then stick with your car, maybe put ugly mis-colored junk yard body panels on it for $30 each after you get the U joints inspected. You aren't going to get much better mpg with the same performance and age/price.

The general recommendation is that old cars are cheaper overall even with worse mpg and repairs but they recommend new cars because they are safer, especially with stability control and better crash safety ratings. Even then you want to get a car at least 3 years old to save money.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

I'm like 10 miles from Manassas.
PM sent.

Donovan N.

look up a place called rotary restorations in VA, or the owner James Hull if you need parts