LaRazaUnida

For the AC:

It needs a recharge, do I just buy one of those cans like at autozone and refill it or do I need to take this car to SEARS to have them put a different type of coolant in there?

For the Alt:
Bought a brand new battery. Only month old. Did not drive the car in a week and the battery was drained. Jumped it that morning and tried to turn it on later in the night, dead.

Think that their could be a leak, but the ground to the alt is pretty corroded. To test, all I do is put the positive voltometer to the alt and the negative to the battery correct?

For FMIC:
Going to put an FMIC in the car pretty soon. The three hoses that connect to the TMIC, what happens to those? Just cap them off when I remove emissions along with the FMIC instal?

Thanks guys. I'll keep my old thread updated on the car after I get these few things fixed. For the score, I had started to sell her but things did not work out and I just could not part

SwiftTone

I see you have a 1st gen in your sig. But ill answer hte best I can

First of all, why do you need to recharge your AC? Is there a leak, because technically if theyres no leak, refrigerant should never wear out. 2nd question, is your AC system converted to R134A yet? If its not, R12 refrigerant is not(should not be, or very hard to get) available anymore. You will need to convert your system to R134A specs. It shouldnt be too expensive. I've heard figures around $100 on a non-Rx-7. If you have R134A already, you will need to recover, vacuum then charge the system. Thats if you want it done properly. Those cans work, but not as well as doing it properly.

The battery problem: Sounds like you might have a slow power drain when the car is not on. That could explain why it was dead. That means that something is on, when the car is not, and causing it to use the battery's power. The voltmeter(more of a OHM/resistance) test is to test if all the internals are in good condition. you will need the alternator turning to test it properly. Whether is is to test the alternator when the car is running, or to test it on a machine.

If I remember properly, theres only 2 hoses on the TMIC.

LaRazaUnida

Hey Swift tone,
Yea I have both an 85 GSL-SE and an 87 TII. The SE has a converted AC, but the 87 is stock.
The AC was actually working fine about a month ago, then crapped out. Just hot air blowing in my face.

I agree about the power drain, I think my power window switch may have a short...that could be the problem. But the ground to the alt is pretty corroded, I am going to add a 10gauge ground to it to see if it helps any problems.

Ah, yes you are correct about the 2 hoses on the TMIC. What are their importance? Do I just plug them up? Thanks alot for the help.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

I can help! I am in Lewisville area and I can help you through this.

I am writing a little guide just for you to post next.

It's hot, but wait!

PS that is a pretty nice car; I was thinking about buying it when you had it forsale.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=battery

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=battery

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Hey, never never never take a/c advice from someone in a cool climate. Now when those guys in the cool climate post back that it gets really hot in Massachusetts, then you KNOW they don't understand True Texas Heat.

I am in the Lewisville, TX area, so I know about our heat. I also know auto a/c.

Your a/c has a leak and low freon level, or a problem with the compressor. Do not under any circumstances change it to R134a. Don't let the dumbasses at Sears work on your system to convert it to R134a. Our systems do not work well on a conversion to this material.

You can 'rent' the guages and vacuum pump at Autozone. They charge you for the equipment, then when you return them you get a full refund. You have 90 days to return them under the rental program.

You need to do the following:

Step 1. Verify that the compressor runs when you turn on the a/c. If it runs for short periods of time then cuts out, you just have low freon. This behavior is called short cycling. Go to step 6 If it doesn't run at all, go to step 2.

Step 2. You may temporarily (like for less than a minute!) jump the pressure switch. If the compressor works when you jump the switch go to the step 3. If it doesn't work, things get more difficult. You have other problems, probably electrical and or mechanical

Step 3. Next you need to replace all the O-rings. You have orings at every connection of the hoses and piping. You can get them at any orilellys or autozone in an assortment. Lube them with a little oil then tighten the connections down tight. You need to replace the reciever drier. Get a new one from Mazda. You can get it from Autozone or Orielly, but you must take the old one with you. Get someone to help you find the part that is exactly like the one you took off. The part in thier book is the wrong part. They have the correct one, it is just listed under another number. If I can find my reciept, I will post this part number later.

Step 4. Pull a deep vaccum, 29" plus and run the vacuum pump for 30 min or so to completely evacuate the system. Turn offf gthe pump and check after 30 min to an hour. If the vacuum is holding at exactly the same level, you may go to Step 6. If the vacuum doesnot hold go to step 5

Step 5. Get some help to find your leak. You probably have a leak in a hose, or in the condensor (radiator-like object in front of the radiator.) When the leak is fixed, to back to Step 4.

Step 6. Charge in the exact amount of R12 into the system. If you had short-cycling compressor from step 1, slowly add enough R12 until you attain a low pressure side of about 35-45 psi at 2000 RPM engine speed on an 85* outside air temp. You may also use Freeze 12 for good results, but it is illegal to mix with R12. It works fine, it is just illegal. Do NOT use 134a. It sucks.



I have R12. It is not that expensive; less than you would pay to have Sears f**k-up your A/C. I will work with you on it.

LaRazaUnida

Jackchild, you have a pm Thanks alot for the help guys Yea, I couldnt end up splitting with the car. I had a buyer and he was a really cool guy but was kinda in a toss up on financial funds so I made it easy for him and all other potentional buyers....JUST KEEP IT!

I love this car, even though they sometimes cause headaches...in the end they are worth it!

EDIT:

Anyword on the FMIC? Do i just cap those hoses?

SwiftTone

yea, dont take advice on me, I'm ONLY ASE certified, and I'm a dumbass on this subject.

With the FMIC, youre basically routing those 2 "hoses" to the front of the car.

LaRazaUnida

Hey swifttone, I appreciate all of your advice and have seen many of your posts which are valid and provide alot of help. I know you know your stuff!

Just for a little bit more understanding....routing those 2 hoses to the front of the car...I will have the FMIC installed and on the pipes connecting the FMIC I will actually have two outlets welded on so I can re-route the hoses from the TMIC onto the new FMIC pipes? Thanks again for your help.