I should be getting it in today, I plan on installing it myself. Any tips???

Thanks

 

The old bar will come off easy if it's not rusted. Mine came off in a minute or two. The hard part is getting your hands up in there. You will need a long extension to work with the top bolt. When you take the old one out the rear will fall slightly; like an inch. So when you put the new one in just open it up all the way and it should reach. You will want to make the bar shorter to reduce negative camber and longer the increase the negative camber. Mine is almost all the way open. I'm guessing I only have 4 or 5 threads holding the ends on. But as far as I can tell that bar does not have to deal with too much stress so a few threads should hold up just fine. You should probably have the rear end aligned after you're done.

Oh! I have the mazdatrix one that can be adjusted on the car. I'm not sure if yours can do that. If not, you will need to take the bottom bolt off to adjust it.

 

Thanks for the help. Is the old one easy to see once the car is jacked up? Like, can you describe to me where it is at, or if you have the 86-91 rx7 manual, tell me a page number that would help me out.

thanks,
marshall

 

You cant miss it. Its the only suspension part that runs vertically, slightly off center.

I believe Scott89T2 was saying you cant get all of the negative camber out, and that at max (the least amount) was -2.5 or something close to that. Still, thats better than mine, probably -3 or -4 degrees!!

 

Well right now most of the negative camber out of the way is better than what it is at right now. Thanks for the help guys, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

yea let us know how it goes and what probs you have if any..im thinking about ordering one

 

Alright will do!

 

It all depends on the condition of your suspension as to how much of the negative camber you can get out.

The Camber Link was designed to deal with the automatic negative camber you get from shorter springs. You get the same problems as stock springs fatigue and compress from normal body weight.

When I got my '88 Vert, had the negative camber problem with stock springs. I replaced the springs with new OEM springs, installed the Camber Link from Racing Beat. Now I have in spec rear camber, and lots of threads to move either way should I want to tweek further.

Once you get the rear of your car up, if it takes longer than 45 minutes to swap out the camber links, you're drinking too much beer as you're doing it. J

ust be sure and have the rear on jack stands so you can use your hydrolic jack to support and adjust the rear framework to align the holes for the lower bolt to be installed.

 

good luck

 

Shorten it (I think) and keep an eye on the front two "pivot" points on the rear sub frame.&nbsp Once the front points hit the underside of the chassis, the rear is going to CLUNK like mad, so make sure you got some clearance.

I hope you got "small hands". It's a royal pain in the *** to put back the top bolt!



-Ted

 

Yes, i know Ted, that's why i had my friend get in the small hard to reach section to hold the one end of the bolt....uh yeah i got it on, on monday i'm getting the car aligned, I can't wait. Oh, and I don't think you have to take off the bolts to adjust it, there is a guide screw in the middle of the threads you can use. At least that's what i was told. Thanks for all yall's guys help. It was easier than i thought it was going to be.