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Aboslute best method for replacing spark plugs

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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 02:40 PM
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Aboslute best method for replacing spark plugs

COULD REALLY USE YOUR HELP GUYS...

I have replaced spark plugs once on my 91 and it was a bit of a bear given how tight things are and the funky angles and obstructions. I had to use an electrical socket wrench.

Wanted to ping you guys and see if there was a secret or best practices for removing plugs and if you wouldn't mind detailing it. Thanks.

ALso wondering best solution/method for decrudding/decarbonizing the spark plugs (reason why I am removing them, they fouled up quick after only one two months and takes forever to start now (started right up with new clean plugs everytime).

Thanks!
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 02:52 PM
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There's more than one way? A 3/8 drive ratchet with a spark plug socket is all I've ever needed. Start with the rear trailing and work your way to the front leading.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 02:59 PM
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For real....
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 03:51 PM
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it is pretty tight if you have the ac and powersteering still in.
Even then though, its just like any other spark plug removal. Just dont use an extension, too much pressure and it will tilt and snap the sparkplug.
I normally just get new spark plugs if it is carbon up badly.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by soundquest
I have replaced spark plugs once on my 91 and it was a bit of a bear given how tight things are and the funky angles and obstructions. I had to use an electrical socket wrench.

Wanted to ping you guys and see if there was a secret or best practices for removing plugs and if you wouldn't mind detailing it. Thanks.
Even with A/C and Power Steering, it's not terrible. (Though my GXL will be loosing the power steering this summer, so that'll make things MUCH easier.

Your standard 3/8ths ratchet and plug socket should be all you need.

You may have to get around by feel if you have big arms.

ALso wondering best solution/method for decrudding/decarbonizing the spark plugs (reason why I am removing them, they fouled up quick after only one two months and takes forever to start now (started right up with new clean plugs everytime).

Thanks!
Figure out why they're carbon fouled that quick; either bad oil rings or running too rich.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryRocket88
There's more than one way?
Originally Posted by sharingan 19
For real....
I lol'd....again
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 06:56 PM
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Socket wrench and spark plug socket. If it's tight I put the socket on first and then attach wrench into socket. Don't overtighten when replacing. Check the torque specs but I think it's very little, a little over hand tight maybe. Always use anti-sieze compound. If you damage the threads it'll be a serious engine fix.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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Years ago when they were serviced at the dealerships, the mechanics removed to lower engine cover and changed the plugs from under the car, easier to access. Actually quite easy with an air ratchet used for removal, but not installation because of the high torque.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 10:03 PM
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I can reach my skinny arms in between the Power steering bracket area and come in from the front to get the Plugs in T1/L1..T2/L2 are not bad if you move some wires in between the body and the engine..reach down,.,take the top then the bottom.
Really though,the car is way easier than a Pontiac Montana!...trust me!
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 10:57 PM
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its hard? really ?

took me around 15 minutes (after the car is up on jacks), I was taking my sweet time too.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 05:33 AM
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Its not hard, on my S4 I do it at mcdonalds between hamburger and frites. Takes around 5 minutes.
On S5 well thats a bit trickier but still not a big mess, could be wayyy worser.

My biggest problem is that my torque wrench does not fit in there so hand tight them and then softly with a ratchet.
21 to 25 Nm should be fine.

Steven
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 07:55 AM
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i can literally do it blindfolded

but one of these help, swivel stubby 3/8" drive

you can get them for like $10 now

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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 08:26 AM
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I find turning them to the LEFT/COUNTER CLOCKWISE helps get them out.

On a serious note: don't forget anti-seize when putting them back.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 08:57 AM
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 10:52 AM
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I'm with rob. Stubby ratchet with swivel head for the win. Otherwise if theyre good and stuck I use a spark plug socket that has a 6 point bolt head on the end and a long ratcheting box end wrench for extra leverage on removal. Twisting them down snug with the ratchet and about 1/8 or a bit less rotation to tight to seal the deal.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 10:57 AM
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unless you have a FMIC this is second easiest maintenance next to changing oil.

21mm deep socket and to speed things up a little cheater bar. I clean them with brake kleen and a tooth brush. put them in when they are dry.

I just did this yesterday and was the only thing I looked forward too out of the rest of the things I had to fix.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 12:47 PM
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It's not that bad. On the FD and Rx-8 it is a lot harder. The Renesis mounts a lot lower and you have to go through the wheel well with a long extension.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 03:21 PM
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you guys are funny, its a bitch with all creature comforts still on the car. I think i used the open end of a wrench on it.

Im gonna be going de-powered steering for my rebuild so probably help out a little bit.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by walken
unless you have a FMIC this is second easiest maintenance next to changing oil.

21mm deep socket and to speed things up a little cheater bar. I clean them with brake kleen and a tooth brush. put them in when they are dry.

I just did this yesterday and was the only thing I looked forward too out of the rest of the things I had to fix.


even with my FM its still easy.
I would say just as easy as when the car was a NA.


if you have gorilla arms maybe its tougher

I have even compression tested in the dark, changing plugs in these things are tons easier then most new cars, never mind FWD cars
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenL5975
On S5 well thats a bit trickier but still not a big mess, could be wayyy worser.
what??
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by datz
what??
I said that on an S5 car you have less space to pull/install the plugs compared to an S4.
It is still not hard to get to the plugs but not as easy as on an S4.

When I said S5 I had specially the T2 in mind, on S5 NA I dont know.

My biggest problem on that subject is that I cant torque the plugs to spec because
my torque wrench does need more degrees movement for the next "click".
And that space is just not there, brake lines, power steering etc is blocking the way.
So I need to hand tight them and retight softly with ratchet.

Steven
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 09:55 PM
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Lies, S4 and S5 are the same thing....

But on another note, put socket on, put rachet on, turn counter clock wirse...
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 10:32 PM
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I think its a 13/16 socket and a wratchet, sometimes I use an extension. For me thats the absolute best way to replace spark plugs.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Black Knight RX7 FC3S
it is pretty tight if you have the ac and powersteering still in.
Huh? Do you guys have hamburger helper oven mitt hands or something?

I have both A/C and P/S, am 6'5" and have gorilla fingers, and I have never had a problem getting a ratchet down there.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 11:13 PM
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a thread is not needed for this.. i just replaced mine today in 10 mins ..a 13/16 socket and some anti seize
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