Jarrett

How is it possible to cross the primary and secondary fuel injector connectors? I am having a hard time FINDING the darn things. Are the upper ones (the ones right under the intake) the primaries?

Felix Wankel

I had the distributor on my 1st get 180 out and it ran, because the two halves of the rotor button were a mirror image. I also had my ignition setup like a second generation. Both leading plugs fire at the same time.

I've used a timing light to check my CAS before too. I lined the leading mark up, lined the two marks on the CAS up, and stabbed it in. Then double checked with the timing light.

Felix Wankel

The shorter fuel rail under the intake is the primary. The longer one that is much easier to get to is the secondary.

SpeedRacer

Secondary injectors kick in at 3800rpms, and any time at WOT even if you are under 3800rpms(I think). It is definently possible to put the CAS in 180degrees off. A friend of mine did that when putting in his rebuilt motor about a year ago. His symptons were very similar to your. What I would do is check the CAS, take the fuel injectors out and soak the tips in degreaser for a couple of hours. Make sure the MAF is connected. Also check the resistance on the injectors. I think you should see 2-3ohms for an 87. On 89+ models the injectors were different, so make sure your drunk cousins didn't get the wrong injectors. The high impedence injectors from 89-91 models will show 12ohms I think. One more thing, it would be impossible to connect a primary injector connector into a secondary. The wires aren't long enough.

SpeedRacer

For some GREAT info on how the rotary works, check out www.rotaryengineillustrated.com . Spend a good hour reading the info there, and I GUARENTEE you will have a MUCH easier time understanding how the rotary works.

Jarrett

Okay, so my next question would be, if the CAS is 180 degress out, whats a good way to tell if you have it 180 out or if its at 0 deg? I am guessing that if I do the steps mentioned before (check the L1 plug with a timing light, obviously without it idling since it wont run, and the fuel pump disabled via under dash relay). I should get a flash as the yellow tab on the crank lines up with the pointer. This would indicate a properly aligned CAS? (or at least as close as I am gonna get till the motor runs?) I am trying to get everything as close as I can, so i can start eliminating suspect parts. Plus my starter is threatening to go on strike at any moment. And I do plan to check the injectors since it could be possible that I have the wrong ones. I read somewhere about bypassing the resistor pack if you end up with later model injectors. Also, can anyone tell me if grounding the "initial set connector" would be benificial? And I will read that link that was also provided to me. Iam trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks!

Felix Wankel

There is a line up mark on the CAS gear and housing. There is a dot on the gear, and a raised arrow looking thing on the housing. Put the leading mark up on the pointer and drop the CAS in. Then check it with the timing light if you want.

Jarrett

arent you supposed to do that with the timing mark on the motor (yellow dot on crank pulley) lined up with the timing pointer? Which leads me to the last two points of confusion. First off, you can line up the CAS/yellow dot on the crank. Then you can rotate the motor. Assuming you havent made a certain amount of revolutions, the yellow dot on the crank pulley will come back in to line with the timing mark, but when you pull the CAS out, the alignment dot will be 180 degrees out (half turn off). My guess is that the timing light should let you know if you are on the right revolution. But I was under the impression that the L1/L2 plugs fire at the same time. (I am reading up on the site that ws given to me a few notes back, trying to gain a little more understanding). Second, what is the "initial set connector"? And should I ground it? I have asked this a few times, but no one seems to want to touch that one. Should I just leave the thing alone?

Jarrett

And there is a red and a yellow dot on my crank pulley. Whats up with that?

ianbell

Get everything set up and then tow the car at about 20mph and pop the clutch in second and keep on towing until it runs - if this does not work you have major problems and have to start from scratch.
Why tow - these cars have no compression on start up and you can spin on the starter forever and will not kick in a flooded engine - towing the car and popping the clutch gives a compression "kick" which will fire the engine when the starter won't.
Actually had to do this today when I left my local watering hole my 87 bitch spun caught and died - luckily bar is on a hill and I got a couple of bar lugs to give me a push out of the parking lot, popped the clutch and away I went - I am learning to look for hills to park on to avoid going through the flood start sequence!

Felix Wankel

One is leading and one is trailing.

Jarrett

Okay, I have the nasty clothes on, and I am going to give it a shot..All of it. its 5 pm here in AZ. Talk with you all soon!!

Jarrett

We have a running RX-7!!!!!! HOLY FREAKIN ****!! Only problem is its overheating like a ******...Any suggestions?

jspecracer7

good luck

...every single one of my FC's had flooding problems...that's why I bought an FD...different kind of flooding problems...

Jarrett

Nice! Different flooding problems... Well, I got it to run, and I took a drive, but the damn thing went hot..I shut it down just before the "H" and the coolant buzzer is on.. How do you fill these with coolant?

Dyre

Dear god man! DONT OVERHEAT IT!!!!!
Just pop the cap next to the termostat on the block and start pooring...

If you overheat it, its likely the 0-rings will blow, cuaseing the same problems you have in a piston engine when the head gasket blows... But to fix it in a rotary requires a full teardown and rebuild of the engine!!!

rx7_ragtop

Most of them have 2 caps on the cooling system. One is on the thermostat "neck" and one on the radiator. Fill it from the thermostat neck one. Where the hose connects to the radiator, there is a small phillips-head "plug" that you loosen to "burp" air out of your cooling system. Loosen that, and fill the system. When water flows out there, tighten it and top off the system. Then, fill the "overflow" bottle to the appropriate mark (full cold if the car is cold.)

Things that can cause overheating:

Low coolant (probably the issue in your case)

bad thermostat (ALWAYS use a stock Mazda thermostat... yes, the cost more, but use it!)

Timing possibly, especially if it is too far off.

Clogged catalytic converter.

Clogged up radiator (feel it when the car warms up... is it pretty much hot all the way across, or are there cool spots?)

Bad water pump or housing... that one is not likely though... although sitting without coolant CAN cause the water pump to go bad, and start to leak from the "weep hole."

Brad

Jarrett

Man!! Am I friggin HAPPY!!! I got most of the air outta the system. Like I said, when I saw the needle diving for the "H" I shut it down and coasted it. I got it back and put more fluid in it..I just took it around the block. No problem... Car lags a little (probably still breaking in) and has a slight surge at idle, but WHO CARES?!?!?! IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You guys (and gals) are AMAZING! If you are in Tucson come on over, I am buying the beer!!!!!!

THANKS A BUNCH!!!!

I cant wait to get it registered and insured...I am gonna put a pic up. I doesnt look like much now, but its mine and IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jarrett

Former Non-Mazda Owner, Now Proud RX-7 Driver

importboi22

i know how you feel when i got my t2 working i couldnt stop driving it .... problem is my water level sensor is bad... so i get the ADD COOLANT **BBBBBBBEEEEEEEEEEEPPPPPPPPP** damn buzzer is annoying

Jarrett

I still seems to want to overheat...I am gonna let it cool all the way down tomorrow and look for bubbles. That would suck.....

Jarrett

Yeah, it is nice though isnt it?? I can go out and start it anytime I want! I dont have to even unplug the fuel pump anymore, it just fires right up! Friggin amazing!

Felix Wankel

Start it up with the filler cap off and see if coolant shoots out. I hope it doesn't.

importboi22

ya when i drove mine it was in double gimp mode too broken charge pipe (where the BOV connects) and add coolant and i couldnt get enuff !!!

Jarrett

If coolant shoots out then what? Time to remove the motor I just spent a week and a half fixing? Boy would that SUCK! I am letting it sit overnight, then I am gonna start it up and check it for shooting coolant. Although, I have fired it, with the upper cap off and no coolant came zooming out of it. I think it may be the viscious fan (sp?). If you give it a good turn with your finger, it spins about a full turn. Plus the heater in the car works so I assume the water pump is doing its thing. It takes it a while to get up to hot, but it eventually gets there. I also may have installed the exhaust system wrong (it was ALL tore apart when I got it! I towed down here to Tucson with the system in the back). I retimed the car while it was at 750 idle and now the thing runs SWEET! Everytime I start it it just runs to about 2500-3000 then just settles right back down. These cars are really neat! I am actually thinking about getting another one. Although all my Chevy friends are giving me tons of **** about this....

SuperchargedRex

The 2500-3000 surge on start up is normal. Mazda programmed it into the ECU to help warm up the car quickly, and get the cat heated up to help reduce emissions.

Make sure that you don't rev the motor past 3000 rpms until it is fully warmed up, or else you may pop an apex seal.