here is the issue i am finishing someone elses mess. a damn big one at that. everything is swaped into the car. the 13b-rew is using the rew harness and ecu. but there are cuts and splices in it and they have spliced some of the 88 chassis harness into the 13b-rew harness. it is a engine / ecu harness. my question is does anyone have a hybrid wiring diagram on this swap? i have looked and nothing turned up. i have got the car to start idle and run but the test drive kills it. you floor it 2 1/2 throttle and it is spuddering at 2000 rpm, but up drop it to 1/4 throttle it gots up too 3000 rpm. any ideas?




ty



dark

 

What coils are you running?
Stock FC?
Stock FD?
The FC does no the proper wiring to handle the stock FD coils.
The FD ECU cannot fire the stock FC coils properly.
The coil wiring runs through the dash harness, so I doubt this was swapped also?


-Ted

 

i believe they are also swapped. there are wires running from the eco to both coils. i think everything he is running is from a jdm clip he bought. i am to fix the wiring and this is from another friend.

 

Both coils?
FC runs two coils packs on the fenders.
FD 13B-REW runs to a coil "pack" of 3 coils mounted on the engine.

So which is it?

The stock FD 13B-REW cannot control the stock FC coils mounted on the fenders.


-Ted

 

bite the bullet and go standalone no more problems wolf 3d

 

^^ agreed. you'll be happier in the end anyways

 

I did this swap, here's what I did:

First I took the stock (FC) trail igniter out of the case and put it into a lead igniter case for the leading coil. To do this the toggle wire goes away, as does the #2 coil wire, the ECU feedback wire the resister also can come out.

The reason behind this is that the tach in this car isn't a discrete wire, if you wire it to the coil neg then it will **** up the igniters over time (even though it does work). So this gets you a proper tack output wire on the lead coil.

I have since used a summit CDI ign box (120 from summit) on the lead coil, this box has a tach output wire that runs the stock tach perfectly.

Next, use 2 more (FC) lead igniter's on a par of trail coils.

My reasons behind doing this included the fact that I could buy FC coil packs for $6 from local junk yards. And that the first FD igniter that I bought tuned out to be bad and I couldn't get one for less than about $50.

 

this is how i got the car the coils are fd, but here is the issue now the turbo closest to the fire wall is dead it is blowing air out the filter side of the housing. so i am going to talk to the owner and tell him. go single large turbo.

 

Search the FD forum for "non-sequential"

My guess is that

the TC gate is closed and the charge control is open, therefore very little if any exhaust is getting to the second turbo so its not pushing boost.

Take the turbo control arm off (this looks like a wastgate actuator, and is on the bottom, basicly under the manifold) There are 2 other devices that look similar that have different functions.

Take this off and wire it foreward and try again,

 

why is air coming out of the upper intake tube?

 

I thought the above description would be clear.

Here is how it works (slightly oversimplified), there is a gate that blocks all exhaust to the rear turbo until a specific rpm. there is a corresponding gate that blocks all compressed air coming from that same turbo until roughly that same RPM.

Now what would happen if you left the gate blocking exhaust to the turbo ON but disconnected the gate blocking air from it (all it takes is a mis-connected/disconnected vacuum hose as its default is to open).

Does this make sense now, the front turbo makes boost but the rear turbo doesn't and yet there is a clear easy pathway back through the intake. So the rear turbo can and will spin backwards and of course the car makes no boost because it all escapes.

Do what I said, search for Poor mans non sequential. You can do this in oh about 30 minutes. It will make the car drivable (other problems not withstanding), and will behave somewhat like single turbo.

 

Yes, but get a standalone that doesn't suck. Haltech or Microtech. Avoid the Wolf unless they have finally figured out how to run rotary ignition without ridiculous measures.