91 RX7 starts up, revs to 2K and then dies out. Any ideas?
#1
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91 RX7 starts up, revs to 2K and then dies out. Any ideas?
Non turbo, manual Trans. Starts up, revs to 2k and then dies out without my foot being on the throttle at all
#2
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#3
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#4
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With the AFM plugged in the car starts, revs to 2k then dies. With it unplugged the car starts, holds idle, but sounds like its cammed(headers only for now) and smells like its running super rich, could the AFM be bad?
#5
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Here is what Satch said on this subject.
The AFM flapper door could be stuck somewhat as it should open w/o too much effort. The flapper door does get pulled open at startup via the vacuum suction created within the engine thus you are correct to believe a large vacuum leak is a possible cause. Make sure the intake duct is secure to the AFM and throttlebody. Also, on some models there is a T connector located underneath the intake duch as it approaches the throttlebody where a hose take air and sends it around to the other side of the engine. I put the post below.
https://www.rx7club.com/general-rota...e-afm-1060685/
The AFM flapper door could be stuck somewhat as it should open w/o too much effort. The flapper door does get pulled open at startup via the vacuum suction created within the engine thus you are correct to believe a large vacuum leak is a possible cause. Make sure the intake duct is secure to the AFM and throttlebody. Also, on some models there is a T connector located underneath the intake duch as it approaches the throttlebody where a hose take air and sends it around to the other side of the engine. I put the post below.
https://www.rx7club.com/general-rota...e-afm-1060685/
#6
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Here is what Satch said on this subject.
The AFM flapper door could be stuck somewhat as it should open w/o too much effort. The flapper door does get pulled open at startup via the vacuum suction created within the engine thus you are correct to believe a large vacuum leak is a possible cause. Make sure the intake duct is secure to the AFM and throttlebody. Also, on some models there is a T connector located underneath the intake duch as it approaches the throttlebody where a hose take air and sends it around to the other side of the engine. I put the post below.
https://www.rx7club.com/general-rota...e-afm-1060685/
The AFM flapper door could be stuck somewhat as it should open w/o too much effort. The flapper door does get pulled open at startup via the vacuum suction created within the engine thus you are correct to believe a large vacuum leak is a possible cause. Make sure the intake duct is secure to the AFM and throttlebody. Also, on some models there is a T connector located underneath the intake duch as it approaches the throttlebody where a hose take air and sends it around to the other side of the engine. I put the post below.
https://www.rx7club.com/general-rota...e-afm-1060685/
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#8
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Finding vacuum leaks left and right lol. Do you mean brake booster vacuum line? I think if the AFM was working properly it would idle better, it wont idle when it's plugged in. If I start the car without it, it idles.. not well but it does, if I plug it in while its running it starts to sound better and then dies out.
#9
Sucker for Punishment
It will not idle even with one leak. Check all lines. Take them off and inspect them under a light. You'd be surprised to see that they are badly cracked and could explain why it's able to idle(a very very small leak). Brake booster line runs to the lower intake manifold on the passenger side. It's the biggest vacuum line ... you can't miss it. It's on the firewall side. Just follow the vacuum line from the brake booster.
I wouldn't worry about anything else until you address ALL leaks. You'll be running in circles. I don't think it's your MAF.
I wouldn't worry about anything else until you address ALL leaks. You'll be running in circles. I don't think it's your MAF.
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 02-24-18 at 05:02 PM.
#10
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It will not idle even with one leak. Check all lines. Take them off and inspect them under a light. You'd be surprised to see that they are badly cracked and could explain why it's able to idle(a very very small leak). Brake booster line runs to the lower intake manifold on the passenger side. It's the biggest vacuum line ... you can't miss it. It's on the firewall side. Just follow the vacuum line from the brake booster.
I wouldn't worry about anything else until you address ALL leaks. You'll be running in circles. I don't think it's your MAF.
I wouldn't worry about anything else until you address ALL leaks. You'll be running in circles. I don't think it's your MAF.
#11
Sucker for Punishment
The FSM has a procedure to test the MAF. If the resistances check out then it's probably good. It's just that you mentioned you were finding leaks left and right. If that's the case then you shouldn't be wondering why it's not idling. If you fix all the leaks and your problem persists then you can logically move on to other things that could be the culprit. Are you getting a code 08?
#12
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The FSM has a procedure to test the MAF. If the resistances check out then it's probably good. It's just that you mentioned you were finding leaks left and right. If that's the case then you shouldn't be wondering why it's not idling. If you fix all the leaks and your problem persists then you can logically move on to other things that could be the culprit. Are you getting a code 08?
#13
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Now it's starting with the MAF plugged in, and idling a bit high and backfiring a bit, I revved it up to 3k and it died out. Could this be vacuum related?
#14
Sucker for Punishment
Do you have a vacuum diagram for your model? It does sound to be vacuum related. I would suggest you check out the diagram and go through all the connections and see if you might've overlooked something. If you do this you can rule out it being vacuum related with a bit of confidence.
Has the intake been removed? Has the upper/intake manifold been removed? It seems intake related for sure. The backfiring, meh, could be something else doing that. I would focus all of my attention on inspecting the whole intake system start to finish and all vacuum lines.
Has the intake been removed? Has the upper/intake manifold been removed? It seems intake related for sure. The backfiring, meh, could be something else doing that. I would focus all of my attention on inspecting the whole intake system start to finish and all vacuum lines.
#15
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Do you have a vacuum diagram for your model? It does sound to be vacuum related. I would suggest you check out the diagram and go through all the connections and see if you might've overlooked something. If you do this you can rule out it being vacuum related with a bit of confidence.
Has the intake been removed? Has the upper/intake manifold been removed? It seems intake related for sure. The backfiring, meh, could be something else doing that. I would focus all of my attention on inspecting the whole intake system start to finish and all vacuum lines.
Has the intake been removed? Has the upper/intake manifold been removed? It seems intake related for sure. The backfiring, meh, could be something else doing that. I would focus all of my attention on inspecting the whole intake system start to finish and all vacuum lines.
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#19
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David I ended up buying a smoke machine for cheap off craigslist just for testing my vacuum lines. I have heard of people blowing smoke as well into it. I just don't smoke and this works like a dream for me. I simply unplug the brake booster line and connect one of those air mattress pumps up to it. Then I have the other end connected to the smoke machine so it blows smoke through the vacuum areas. If any smoke is seen pouring out of an area that is where my leak is. You will also need to plug where the MAF connects if you have it off or just after is so the smoke doesn't come out there. I have used this a few times. It has found the leak every time if I had one. I had one under the throttle body there which is hard to get to. All those spider lines for the OMP all of that is vacuum. One of those came off and smoke was pouring through one time I checked when I had a high idle condition. I knew it was sucking in air from somewhere, but not really where. In my experience i have had a few vacuum leaks and they all caused high idle conditions due to be getting to much air. I once left the main brake booster off which caused a huge leak. I finally pulled started my car and it took and minute and sounded awful trying to run. Finally after like 20 to 30 seconds the idle went way up. I couldn't get the idle below 1800 no matter how much I adjusted it. I knew something was wrong. I took a break and let it cool down and then remembered I did not hook up the main hose after I had it all apart. This is why I could not get it started until I pull started. Anyways the moral of the story is vacuum related can make it hard to start maybe or give it high idle. This is all it effects though and wouldn't cause the cutting out of your car I do not believe. Vacuum is easy diagnosed if you can plug the AFM and blow smoke through it somehow.
Ohh since you have an S5 stepping on the throttle cuts the fuel which allows you to start if its flooded a little.
Ohh since you have an S5 stepping on the throttle cuts the fuel which allows you to start if its flooded a little.
#21
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#22
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Update after fixing that massive vacuum leak the idle is smooth now at about 1200, only let it idle for a minute or 2 revved it up a few times and it didn’t die. Started hearing a buzzer go off, heard it a few times before when we were trying to work out the idle issue
#23
Sucker for Punishment
Are you low on coolant(buzzer)?
Good to hear that you found a leak. Are you actually using a vacuum diagram? I mean, it's goes without saying but it would make your life a whole lot easier man. Learning how to troubleshoot right is important. How is one expected to know where all the vacuums lines are on an engine? You will save lots of time and money. You'll also understand your car better.
Good to hear that you found a leak. Are you actually using a vacuum diagram? I mean, it's goes without saying but it would make your life a whole lot easier man. Learning how to troubleshoot right is important. How is one expected to know where all the vacuums lines are on an engine? You will save lots of time and money. You'll also understand your car better.
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 03-01-18 at 08:45 PM.
#24
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Are you low on coolant(buzzer)?
Good to hear that you found a leak. Are you actually using a vacuum diagram? I mean, it's goes without saying but it would make your life a whole lot easier man. Learning how to troubleshoot right is important. How is one expected to know where all the vacuums lines are on an engine? You will save lots of time and money. You'll also understand your car better.
Good to hear that you found a leak. Are you actually using a vacuum diagram? I mean, it's goes without saying but it would make your life a whole lot easier man. Learning how to troubleshoot right is important. How is one expected to know where all the vacuums lines are on an engine? You will save lots of time and money. You'll also understand your car better.
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David731
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02-23-18 04:02 PM