'89 Turbo II Autometer A/F Gauge Question!
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'89 Turbo II Autometer A/F Gauge Question!
Alright I installed my autometer a/f gauge last night and went for a spin. I was wondering if the following patters are right.
The gauge when starting the car reads LEAN and then works its way slowly up to semi-rich at idle (heating up the sensor I am assuming).
When Driving at cruise control, the gauge light bounces between the top part of stoich and the bottom part of lean (crossing into rich somtimes).
At WOT it is RICH which is a good thing
But when I let off the gas the light disappears into the lean section and comes back on when I give it more throttle (straight to the rich section).
Is that about right?
The gauge when starting the car reads LEAN and then works its way slowly up to semi-rich at idle (heating up the sensor I am assuming).
When Driving at cruise control, the gauge light bounces between the top part of stoich and the bottom part of lean (crossing into rich somtimes).
At WOT it is RICH which is a good thing
But when I let off the gas the light disappears into the lean section and comes back on when I give it more throttle (straight to the rich section).
Is that about right?
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well in that case I am very pleased.
I am quite happy with it if that is the case...took me 3 hours to install my Gauge Pod, Boost Gauge, and A/F gauge...to much wiring...yarg.
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Mine reads about the same except at idle it just reads lean all the time and when I get into it at 4k it goes from 1st bar to of the scale lean. I think my secondaries are not kicking in or something (also get a gas smell when this happens) But the wierd thing is if I lift then smash it again it goes back to where it is supposed to be. Well I guess I should stop with my problems just hoping some one out there had the same prob and could tell me where to look.
#7
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HOW DID U GET THE PILLAR MOUNT ON RIGHT?? BECAUSE MOST OF MY FRIENDS WIT 89-91'S HAVE PROBLEMS BECAUSE IT WAS MADE FOR 86-88'S... I WENT THROUGH THE SAME WIT MY 91.... AS FAR AS THE AIRFUEL GAUGE... MINES DOES THA SAME..WHAT DOES URS READ AT IDLE?
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#9
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well a dremal and sometime and two screws and it worked out great just mounted it so that the pod was below the track for the seat belts. I could take a pic and post it sometime today if you like.
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my 7 at idle reads 1-2 bars green and works its way down slowly. if i let it idle long enough she will go to middle yellow (about 15 minutes of idling). the bouncing back and forth (closed/open loop, i forget which one) has stoped. i always get a steady reading. i have my safc leaned out to -12 at idle (1000rpm) and she idles smooth but still reads rich, it trips me out! how can you tell the oxygen sensor is going bad, i would assume when the reading is sluggish. as soon as i left of throttle the gauge reacts instantly so it seems like my sensor is good. i think i need a better a/f gauge.
#11
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Re: '89 Turbo II Autometer A/F Gauge Question!
Originally posted by PraxRX7
The gauge when starting the car reads LEAN and then works its way slowly up to semi-rich at idle (heating up the sensor I am assuming).
The gauge when starting the car reads LEAN and then works its way slowly up to semi-rich at idle (heating up the sensor I am assuming).
When Driving at cruise control, the gauge light bounces between the top part of stoich and the bottom part of lean (crossing into rich somtimes).
At WOT it is RICH which is a good thing
But when I let off the gas the light disappears into the lean section and comes back on when I give it more throttle (straight to the rich section).
-Ted
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hey ted maybe you can explain somethin to me
my a/f gauge doesnt bounce back and forth at all anymore. does this mean my ecu is not in closed loop mode anymore to?
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Re: hey ted maybe you can explain somethin to me
Originally posted by Grimlock
my a/f gauge doesnt bounce back and forth at all anymore. does this mean my ecu is not in closed loop mode anymore to?
my a/f gauge doesnt bounce back and forth at all anymore. does this mean my ecu is not in closed loop mode anymore to?
Unless you're running a Haltech?
-Ted
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My friend's A/F gauge bounces back and forth at idle, from extremely lean to extremely rich. It never stays put at idle, is there something wrong?
BTW, this is on a SC '96 Mustang Cobra.
BTW, this is on a SC '96 Mustang Cobra.
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hmmm...
Thanks Ted for the awesome followup.
no auto seat belts...its a Canadian Turbo II =) I never did like auto seat belts.
It was a 97% perfect fit...it looks great and is super solid...I followed the instructions roughly from the fc3s.org site.
I hit 10 PSI last night...no fuel cut...strange...and still running rich
I now hit 7 PSI in 1st gear, 10 PSI in 2nd gear, 8.5 psi in 3rd gear, and I haven't really tested the upper gears to their full extent because I know that fuel cut is there some where... (The car has SO much more power and acceleration in the lower gears, thank goodness for no catalytic converter!)
It was the 89-91 specific autometer gauge pod...but you can't put it just anywhere you want without some modification to it, I had to dremmel one hole bigger too because the boost gauge was not the smaller type..ooops...1 size bigger, but it still fits nice.
You have to put the gauge to where it looks like it is flowing with the contours of the a-pillar (nearer the bottom). If you get it just right you won't have to do any modification.
Its great, I'll post some pics in a few weeks.
no auto seat belts...its a Canadian Turbo II =) I never did like auto seat belts.
It was a 97% perfect fit...it looks great and is super solid...I followed the instructions roughly from the fc3s.org site.
I hit 10 PSI last night...no fuel cut...strange...and still running rich
I now hit 7 PSI in 1st gear, 10 PSI in 2nd gear, 8.5 psi in 3rd gear, and I haven't really tested the upper gears to their full extent because I know that fuel cut is there some where... (The car has SO much more power and acceleration in the lower gears, thank goodness for no catalytic converter!)
It was the 89-91 specific autometer gauge pod...but you can't put it just anywhere you want without some modification to it, I had to dremmel one hole bigger too because the boost gauge was not the smaller type..ooops...1 size bigger, but it still fits nice.
You have to put the gauge to where it looks like it is flowing with the contours of the a-pillar (nearer the bottom). If you get it just right you won't have to do any modification.
Its great, I'll post some pics in a few weeks.
Last edited by PraxRX7; 05-09-02 at 11:30 AM.
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I installed the 88+ pillar gauge cluster on my 89, go search for a thread on gauge cluster (look for one started by rico5) and you'll see our entire discussion on it.
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ok, im bringing this old thread back to life in the hopes that it will help me find out what the hell is going on, When you start the car it is not in lean like everyone else but in rich, and slowly works toward lean. then i just keeps going untill it cuts out completely. No leds at all..... but when you give it gas, like ted said you do get leds, but when you let off since i have open air bov i get a rich burst, then nothing....... what the hell
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Originally posted by chris-reed
When you start the car it is not in lean like everyone else but in rich, and slowly works toward lean...
When you start the car it is not in lean like everyone else but in rich, and slowly works toward lean...
then i just keeps going untill it cuts out completely. No leds at all..... but when you give it gas, like ted said you do get leds...
...but when you let off since i have open air bov i get a rich burst, then nothing
Most of this was answered earlier in the thread y’know...
#21
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and at light cruise it reads nothing and at idle it reads nothing, everyone elses bounces back and forth, and i don't get ****.
my car does not idle rich according to the damn guage it does not idle at all. it shows nothing
it starts off warming in the rich are, adn slowly moves towards lean, then all the way down off the meter.
Could, [anychance] the autometer guage be bad, this is the second o2 with the same results. and the acv is still on there untill next week. I did adjust the idle controll all the way to rich to see if this made a difference at idle, it did not. still no leds
my car does not idle rich according to the damn guage it does not idle at all. it shows nothing
it starts off warming in the rich are, adn slowly moves towards lean, then all the way down off the meter.
Could, [anychance] the autometer guage be bad, this is the second o2 with the same results. and the acv is still on there untill next week. I did adjust the idle controll all the way to rich to see if this made a difference at idle, it did not. still no leds
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Originally posted by chris-reed
Could, [anychance] the autometer guage be bad...
Could, [anychance] the autometer guage be bad...
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The O2 sensor cable has an earthed braided shield around it to protect it from EMI. If you pierce this wire to tap into it, it’s hard not to contact the shield too, effectively earthing the whole circuit and screwing everything up.
I haven’t got S5 wiring diagrams so I can’t give you pin info. But if your new DMM has a continuity tester, you can probe all the ECU wires until you find it. Easy.
I haven’t got S5 wiring diagrams so I can’t give you pin info. But if your new DMM has a continuity tester, you can probe all the ECU wires until you find it. Easy.