89 intake install help
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Here is the standard one, but there are a couple of things that I did different on the set up I just did.
http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/intake.html
I am currently building up a S4 engine to replace the turbo engine in my 'vert and did the intake swap on it.
I that on he suggestes that you use the S5 main and secondary fuel rails. I retained my S4 fuel rail by swaping the sides that the Pulsation dampner sits on, on the main rail. That way I could retain the S4 rail, for lower cost and the ability to replace just the PD, rather than the whole rail and PD. The S4 rail and PD doesn't clear the new intake tract unless you use a S5 PD/rail or swap the PD sides on the S4. Here is how it hits if you don't swap:
Also he suggests using a block off plate for the EGR. If you simply sand/grind the EGR valve down about an 1/8th of an inch, it too will be low enough to use and not hit the intake.
I also used the S4 lower intake. The ports are slightly larger than the S5 and using the S4 lower section made the aux port activation much easier. Doing this then I didn't have to do the epoxy fill that he suggests on the intake as well.
It did however require minor drilling and grinding of the S5 middle intake section (which I was doing anyway, since I ported and poilished up the intake tracks).
Drilling the middle intake to match to the S4 lower intake:
From the top:
http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/intake.html
I am currently building up a S4 engine to replace the turbo engine in my 'vert and did the intake swap on it.
I that on he suggestes that you use the S5 main and secondary fuel rails. I retained my S4 fuel rail by swaping the sides that the Pulsation dampner sits on, on the main rail. That way I could retain the S4 rail, for lower cost and the ability to replace just the PD, rather than the whole rail and PD. The S4 rail and PD doesn't clear the new intake tract unless you use a S5 PD/rail or swap the PD sides on the S4. Here is how it hits if you don't swap:
Also he suggests using a block off plate for the EGR. If you simply sand/grind the EGR valve down about an 1/8th of an inch, it too will be low enough to use and not hit the intake.
I also used the S4 lower intake. The ports are slightly larger than the S5 and using the S4 lower section made the aux port activation much easier. Doing this then I didn't have to do the epoxy fill that he suggests on the intake as well.
It did however require minor drilling and grinding of the S5 middle intake section (which I was doing anyway, since I ported and poilished up the intake tracks).
Drilling the middle intake to match to the S4 lower intake:
From the top:
Last edited by Icemark; 07-21-03 at 11:55 AM.
#3
I'm a boost creep...
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There's one glaring error in that otherwise excellent write-up. He says...
A note about the oil injectors: There is NO vacuum source for the oil injectors on the front of the 89 intake manifold! I installed new lines on my injectors and actually redirected the hose to the back side of the intake instead of the front. There you will find a large vacuum source to hook up to.
This is completely wrong, since the oil injector air lines are supposed to be hooked up to a nipple that's fed before the throttle, not after. The oil injectors need atmosheric pressure, not vacuum. There should be a large nipple on the manifold somewhere for this.
A note about the oil injectors: There is NO vacuum source for the oil injectors on the front of the 89 intake manifold! I installed new lines on my injectors and actually redirected the hose to the back side of the intake instead of the front. There you will find a large vacuum source to hook up to.
This is completely wrong, since the oil injector air lines are supposed to be hooked up to a nipple that's fed before the throttle, not after. The oil injectors need atmosheric pressure, not vacuum. There should be a large nipple on the manifold somewhere for this.
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