88 tII video inside help ?
02-15-10, 12:04 PM
#1
T2 Darkness
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88 tII video inside help ?
ok so i have a new tps new vacume lines and it is still doing this could it need a tune/timing ? beacause some times it pops and other times it dosent even do anything it sometimes when i give it a lil bit of gas it souinds like it missfires it has a street port and all emmisions removed everything blocked of right engine has 3 miles on it i cant figure it out any sugestions
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...8.flv&newest=1
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...8.flv&newest=1
02-15-10, 12:19 PM
#2
Motors built with used internals can suffer from low compression during break-in which could cause this, but also check timing, vacuum leaks, TPS... Who built your motor and who ported it?
Also, don't flog it for Christ's sake, it's a new motor and needs time to break in, especially if it was built with used housings and or any internal combustion seals.
Also, don't flog it for Christ's sake, it's a new motor and needs time to break in, especially if it was built with used housings and or any internal combustion seals.
02-15-10, 01:25 PM
#4
Sequentially broken
Sounds like your average vacuum leak to me, coupled with some severe exhaust issue (either not connected, or a leak). Way too many things to check for this. Check/fix all vacuum leaks, get it to idle stable and adjust timing, adjust TPS once that's done.
02-16-10, 12:28 AM
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the timing wont adjust i stab it in right and i move it and the engine wont make a difference and i have an exhaust leak on my downpipe into my mid pipe i have it held on by one bolt beacause i need to get new ones
the tps is brand new
so isent the vacum lines
the engine was brandynew new seals 3mm and new housings by rotary resurrection
thats what puzzling me i dont understand why it does it
the tps is brand new
so isent the vacum lines
the engine was brandynew new seals 3mm and new housings by rotary resurrection
thats what puzzling me i dont understand why it does it
02-16-10, 12:29 AM
#6
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the tps is brand new
so isent the vacum lines
the engine was brandynew new seals 3mm and new housings by rotary resurrection
thats what puzzling me i dont understand why it does it
02-16-10, 12:54 AM
#7
Sequentially broken
You can't set the timing if the engine speed isn't stable under 1k rpm, so you can't start there. Also don't try to set it without a light judging by sound. The TPS will need to be adjusted when the cars actually idling at a normal rate. It sounds a lot to me like vacuum leaks. You could probably try pushing the AFM flapper in by hand a little bit to see if the idle smoothens out at all, usually it's a simple way to diagnose vacuum leaks.
Start with leaks, check everything. TID/vacuum routing/vac caps/BOV/etc, go over it all. Use water/starting fluid if you need to locate leaks. Once you get those taken care of, you can check/adjust timing/tps settings.
Start with leaks, check everything. TID/vacuum routing/vac caps/BOV/etc, go over it all. Use water/starting fluid if you need to locate leaks. Once you get those taken care of, you can check/adjust timing/tps settings.
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02-16-10, 10:29 AM
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You can't set the timing if the engine speed isn't stable under 1k rpm, so you can't start there. Also don't try to set it without a light judging by sound. The TPS will need to be adjusted when the cars actually idling at a normal rate. It sounds a lot to me like vacuum leaks. You could probably try pushing the AFM flapper in by hand a little bit to see if the idle smoothens out at all, usually it's a simple way to diagnose vacuum leaks.
Start with leaks, check everything. TID/vacuum routing/vac caps/BOV/etc, go over it all. Use water/starting fluid if you need to locate leaks. Once you get those taken care of, you can check/adjust timing/tps settings.
Start with leaks, check everything. TID/vacuum routing/vac caps/BOV/etc, go over it all. Use water/starting fluid if you need to locate leaks. Once you get those taken care of, you can check/adjust timing/tps settings.
ive looked for a vacume leak i tripple checked it i think it has somthing to do with fuel or timing but i dont know how to fix it
02-16-10, 10:32 AM
#9
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Motors built with used internals can suffer from low compression during break-in which could cause this, but also check timing, vacuum leaks, TPS... Who built your motor and who ported it?
Also, don't flog it for Christ's sake, it's a new motor and needs time to break in, especially if it was built with used housings and or any internal combustion seals.
Also, don't flog it for Christ's sake, it's a new motor and needs time to break in, especially if it was built with used housings and or any internal combustion seals.
the timing wont adjust i stab it in right and i move it and the engine wont make a difference and i have an exhaust leak on my downpipe into my mid pipe i have it held on by one bolt beacause i need to get new ones
the tps is brand new
so isent the vacum lines
the engine was brandynew new seals 3mm and new housings by rotary resurrection
thats what puzzling me i dont understand why it does it
02-16-10, 11:10 AM
#10
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Check your fuel injector o rings for a vacuum leak and also check the TID where it meets the turbo for a crack. My car was running terribly for a while, kinda similar to yours before I discovered the fuel injector o rings had major vacuum leaks and I may have had my injector wiring wrong too (but I'm not totally sure about that).
Anyways, if you have a vacuum leak on a MAF sensor car it will run like **** no matter what. It's always the first step to fixing it. Also you know how to properly set timing right? You gotta pop out the CAS and line up the dimple on the gear with the mark on the CAS casing, stab it in without letting the gear turn. Then you hook up your timing light and set it accordingly.
Because your engine won't idle stable it will be difficult to set. Try and hold it at a constant rpm (the lowest you can keep it constant). I set mine temporarily while 'idling' at 1200 rpms, and it was a little advanced but that's normal because as the engine speed increases the timing should advance (so your just compensating for this). Be careful setting your timing because if it's too advanced you could cause major engine damage or catch your exhaust on fire.
Also I saw it mentioned above that the tps should be adjusted at idle, but I thought I read in the FSM or on ALLDATA that the engine should be warm and OFF while you adjust it? That's pretty darn important too though, pretty easy to adjust as well.
Anyways, if you have a vacuum leak on a MAF sensor car it will run like **** no matter what. It's always the first step to fixing it. Also you know how to properly set timing right? You gotta pop out the CAS and line up the dimple on the gear with the mark on the CAS casing, stab it in without letting the gear turn. Then you hook up your timing light and set it accordingly.
Because your engine won't idle stable it will be difficult to set. Try and hold it at a constant rpm (the lowest you can keep it constant). I set mine temporarily while 'idling' at 1200 rpms, and it was a little advanced but that's normal because as the engine speed increases the timing should advance (so your just compensating for this). Be careful setting your timing because if it's too advanced you could cause major engine damage or catch your exhaust on fire.
Also I saw it mentioned above that the tps should be adjusted at idle, but I thought I read in the FSM or on ALLDATA that the engine should be warm and OFF while you adjust it? That's pretty darn important too though, pretty easy to adjust as well.
02-16-10, 11:24 AM
#11
Sequentially broken
It's probably not fuel or delivery (unless the gas is REALLY old), typically the car wouldn't even start if there was an issue with those.
The sound of it screams vacuum. Using starting fluid/manually pushing the AFM flapper by hand is a good way to locate or at least verify that's the cause. As mentioned above, the rubber seals on the injectors are a prime spot for leaks, it could also be an incorrectly attatched hose/TID (metioned previously), etc. You really need to fix those and get the car to idle at a stable RPM before you can adjust timing/properly set the TPS. (You should probably try your best to get it down 1k ohm's or 1v as it sits now and start from there as you correct vacuum leaks then adjust it again).
The sound of it screams vacuum. Using starting fluid/manually pushing the AFM flapper by hand is a good way to locate or at least verify that's the cause. As mentioned above, the rubber seals on the injectors are a prime spot for leaks, it could also be an incorrectly attatched hose/TID (metioned previously), etc. You really need to fix those and get the car to idle at a stable RPM before you can adjust timing/properly set the TPS. (You should probably try your best to get it down 1k ohm's or 1v as it sits now and start from there as you correct vacuum leaks then adjust it again).
02-18-10, 07:06 PM
#15
Mine is done my timing mark on the front was off when I reinstalled the CAS. So I had to redo everything over maybe that will help. Thanks fo the info Rotary Rocket. I hope this helps also Crazzykid. If you Remove your CAS Make sure on the front cover is timing pin mark is on the yellow line when you stab your CAS with the dimple and arrow mark... I hope you get it running right soon.
02-19-10, 05:02 PM
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
sounds like a vac leak. id say check everything from vac lines to the gaskets for the intake mainfold upper and lower. Spray some carb cleaner round the intake manifold from vac lines to in between the where the uim and lim meet. if the idle changes a bit theres a leak in the are your spraying.
02-24-10, 01:29 PM
#17
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sounds like a vac leak. id say check everything from vac lines to the gaskets for the intake mainfold upper and lower. Spray some carb cleaner round the intake manifold from vac lines to in between the where the uim and lim meet. if the idle changes a bit theres a leak in the are your spraying.
02-24-10, 01:37 PM
#18
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Check your fuel injector o rings for a vacuum leak and also check the TID where it meets the turbo for a crack. My car was running terribly for a while, kinda similar to yours before I discovered the fuel injector o rings had major vacuum leaks and I may have had my injector wiring wrong too (but I'm not totally sure about that).
Anyways, if you have a vacuum leak on a MAF sensor car it will run like **** no matter what. It's always the first step to fixing it. Also you know how to properly set timing right? You gotta pop out the CAS and line up the dimple on the gear with the mark on the CAS casing, stab it in without letting the gear turn. Then you hook up your timing light and set it accordingly.
Because your engine won't idle stable it will be difficult to set. Try and hold it at a constant rpm (the lowest you can keep it constant). I set mine temporarily while 'idling' at 1200 rpms, and it was a little advanced but that's normal because as the engine speed increases the timing should advance (so your just compensating for this). Be careful setting your timing because if it's too advanced you could cause major engine damage or catch your exhaust on fire.
Also I saw it mentioned above that the tps should be adjusted at idle, but I thought I read in the FSM or on ALLDATA that the engine should be warm and OFF while you adjust it? That's pretty darn important too though, pretty easy to adjust as well.
Anyways, if you have a vacuum leak on a MAF sensor car it will run like **** no matter what. It's always the first step to fixing it. Also you know how to properly set timing right? You gotta pop out the CAS and line up the dimple on the gear with the mark on the CAS casing, stab it in without letting the gear turn. Then you hook up your timing light and set it accordingly.
Because your engine won't idle stable it will be difficult to set. Try and hold it at a constant rpm (the lowest you can keep it constant). I set mine temporarily while 'idling' at 1200 rpms, and it was a little advanced but that's normal because as the engine speed increases the timing should advance (so your just compensating for this). Be careful setting your timing because if it's too advanced you could cause major engine damage or catch your exhaust on fire.
Also I saw it mentioned above that the tps should be adjusted at idle, but I thought I read in the FSM or on ALLDATA that the engine should be warm and OFF while you adjust it? That's pretty darn important too though, pretty easy to adjust as well.
i have a brand new tps i also have it timed right by a rotary tec and no vac leak even around the injectors, i got the injectors rebuilt in washington i forgot who i got it built buy they did new rubbers and resprayed them so i can understand y it does the things it does it what u thinkkk ?
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