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'88 TII running rich... And I'm stumped.

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Old 08-31-07, 03:14 PM
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'88 TII running rich... And I'm stumped.

So, my '88 TII seems to be running aweful rich, to the point where once it's up to temps, the driver behind me cannot see a damn thing everytime I shift, and while driving it's pretty bad too, and when I'm standing at a light, you can see a nice cloud forming behind my car. Hot starts are an issue as well, gotta hit the fuel pump cut switch until it starts, and then turn it back on once it's going.

Only mods done to the drivetrain are: Emissions is removed, full RB exhaust, some stupid aftermarket intake filter that came with the car, and that's really just about it. It's stock for the most part.

Had about 3 months of downtime while I was wrenching on the car and fixing up all the small things that bothered me here and there.

New parts on the motor:

Plugs, wires, fuel filter, injectors were cleaned about 15 miles ago, water thermo sensor in the thermostat housing, new intake air temp sensor in the TMIC-TB elbow, that's it as far as I remember, but if I remember anything else I'll post it.

Had the throttle body assembly completely apart, cleaned it & put it all back together, everything seems to be working great there, coolant was flushed about 15 miles ago as well, S5 cluster, not like these things would affect the motor running rich, just though I'd mention it.

Anywho, checked fuel pressure while running, it's per factory spec, fuel pump and FPR are working fine. Shut the car off, fuel pressure didn't move the slightest bit in about 10-15 minutes - so injectors aren't leaking.

Hooked up the "scan tool" (lol) to the diagnostics port, both lit for the "ok" 3 secs, and then nothing more so that would suggest to me that all the sensors it checks are working per spec too.

Replaced both trailing and leading coils with a pair I had laying around, didn't change anything.

If I remember me doing anything else, I'll post.

Any ideas? Input?

Thanks in advance,

- Faris
Old 08-31-07, 03:17 PM
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Oh, forgot to mention.

It was running the same before I did all that stuff to it.

And compression was fine before I did all this stuff, 105psi on all 3 faces in both rotors.

And the smoke is whitish, but not coolant white, and it definitley smells like fuel, not oil or coolant.
Old 09-01-07, 07:46 PM
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Anybody?
Old 09-01-07, 09:20 PM
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mod's? Are you running larger injectors? If your ECu is functioning properly with stock injectors there should be no reason to run rich. If you have upgraded your injectors, and haven't tuned the thing (with an AFC prefereably) then hell yea you'll be running rich!
Old 09-02-07, 02:14 PM
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Nope, all 4 injectors are the OEM 550's that were just cleaned. I listed all the engine related mods that I can remember right now.

I'm gonna try to get my hands on another ECU and see if the ECU itself is the problem, rotaries are still a new thing to me, lol.
Old 09-02-07, 06:24 PM
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Might wanna start checking sensors, because what the ECU tells the injectors to do is based off what the sensors tell the ECU about the running condition of the vehicle.

I believe the Thermo sensor on the back of the water pump housing is responsible for telling the ECU if the car is running hot = more fule or cold = less fuel. If the ECU is getting the wrong signal it could be causing you to run rich even on stock injectors.
Old 09-03-07, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by sharingan 19
Might wanna start checking sensors, because what the ECU tells the injectors to do is based off what the sensors tell the ECU about the running condition of the vehicle.

I believe the Thermo sensor on the back of the water pump housing is responsible for telling the ECU if the car is running hot = more fule or cold = less fuel. If the ECU is getting the wrong signal it could be causing you to run rich even on stock injectors.
As mentioned in the original post, I tried to pull up the "codes" from the diagnostics plug, however there was no malfunction found in any of the sensors, the LEDs just stayed on for 3 secs to give the OK, and that was it. Even then, I did in fact replace the water thermo sensor, just in case there was some calcium crust insulating it from reading proper temps back to the ECU, as mentioned in the original post.
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