locketine

can I get a board diagram to find out what to get to replace it? also I want to know what system the resistor is a part of to check so that it won't fry again.

HAILERS

There is no board diagram and if there were you did not tell us what the number of the ECU is or the cars year of make. In the picture that you did not attach we cannot see the resistor you talk about and in fact it looks more like a capacitor to me.

locketine

dude, the title says 88 SE. I was hoping for a board diagram so I could check some of the other components. it's resistor #942 I believe, I'll have to double check if you'd like but I'm guessing you just wanted to be a dick. there's an identicall resistor parallel to it that is a 1ohm resistor. I can't be positive though cause the bad resistor is burnt beyond recognition.

HAILERS

Yep. The title said 88. Nope, no 88 ECU here except for the N333 out in the garage. And it has no #942 on either board. So where is this nine forty two located on the board?

HAILERS

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=33077

WAYNE88N/A

I've been yelling about getting my hands on an internal ECU schematic for a while, to no avail...One of these I'll make one for myself...

If you can, either get the color bands off of the resistor and extract the resistance values from the chart (first couple of pages in the FSM wiring manual), or look on the circuit board- sometimes the values are printed on the board at the resistor location...

As far as which circuit on the car, see if you can "backtrack" the circuit on the board to a specific pin, then use the FSM, section 4, to see which circuit uses the pin...

Hailers, somebody **** in your cheerios today?

HAILERS

Hailers, somebody **** in your cheerios today?

Errr, ahhhh, I notice I"M the only one who actually went and took the top and bottom off the 88 ECU and posted a Jpg of the board. OH! and looked for the number given and did not see it on the board. It's not my fault I did not get a response as to where on the board that particular item is. I shouldn't expect much from someone who is too lazy to put a capital letter at the beginning of a sentance.. Did you see http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=33077

Hell, there's a guy asking where the red wire from his battery is going to on HIS car. That fellow won't bother taking fifteen minutes to figure out his own problem/question. Why should anybody else. Next time I see one of those I'm gonna just make up something.

I'm pretty sure that red wire goes to the catalytic converter inhibitor. It's in the fsm, page 88, section F4. Has a picture and a diagram as to how it works too. Series four only. The series five had the CCIH (catalytic converter inhibitor located next to the antenna motor) and incorporated a sliding transducer in it. It causes the car to go into the limp mode if it fails. Just FYI stuff.

WAYNE88N/A

Lol, don't forget about the flux capacitor, that shunts all unneeded electricty into the charcoal canister, to be reused when the secondary injectors kick in...

I hear ya, man...I'm just messing with ya, because your sense of humor is, well, unique, to say the least...Remember we were all "green" at one time, however.

locketine

Hey sorry about calling you an *** earlier, you were obviously just tired and impatient. Sorry I didn't post pics because my friend wanted a ride somewhere after I got the thing apart to find that blown resistor, and then my clutch line blew..... So I just finally got my car back to my house.

All the board tells me is a number that I think was 942, but I guess not. and the color bands aren't present on ne of my resistors, atleast not the standardized bands I expected. Besides that the resistor is burnt beyond recognition, all I can decipher is its shape.

I'll get a pic tomorow with a circle around the resistor and the correct number.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Told you to replace that!!!!

What resister is it? I know I fried the bac one on my TII .

locketine

yeah, about that..... I lost the replacement hose you gave me, which wasn't that much better in my opinion neways. but whatever, I'll have a stainless steel one from mazdatrix in a few days.

ok, here we are.


resistor #951

locketine

oh yeah, the ecu is N327.

HAILERS

Ok. My N333 is turbo......but I did pick up a N327 off EBAY a while back, so I'll take it's cover off somethime tomorrow and look. Til then...

HAILERS

951's trace goes to 2O, which is for the Split Air Solenoid that is located on the BAC. It has the numbers 3R9J 86 written on it just like the ones nearby. Blue in color. Yeah, no 942 to be found

HAILERS

Sorry, but I meant its for the Split Air Solenoid on the ACV ....not the bac. I gotta start proof reading my posts.

mort2002

iTrader: (1)

hey if you ned a computer i have one at my house. i will make a call and find out what number it is. i know it came out of an 87 gtu or gxl not shure wich one. but throme me an offer of you want it. have no need for it all i got is my s5 tII

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Man hailers, wayne and the rest of you electrical geniuses amaze me! you guys know what capasitor go to what engine part etc... crazy ****! I wish I knew half of that ****!

locketine

thanks big time hailers, now I just have to make use of my haynes manual and check that and everything connected with it.

I don't need a computer, this one works fine, I just needa go down to radioshack and get a replacement resistor.

HAILERS

Sorry, but your going to be less amazed after you read this:

I kinda fucked up. That resistor goes to pin 2O alright, but it feeds the SWITCHING SOLENOID. I've no idea how I screwed that up with the acv and its Split Air Solenoid. Stuff happens.

Anyway, the SWITCHING SOLENOID is the GREY SOLENOID on the rack of solenoids on the left of the engine. If you look at it, I wouldn't be a bit surprised if you saw.......nothing irregular.

What probably blew the resistor was another thing. There is that GREEN CHECK connector that you use for checking out the tps, right? Well if you look at the schematic you'll see that one of the three wires on that green check connector is spliced to a wire on the SWITCHING SOLENOID. Then that wire goes to pin 2O (not twenty but two ohhh).

What happens is someone probably was using the two bug light method of setting his TPS using the green check connector. Most likely he was NOT using a LED but a regular light bulb. It pulled too much current and burnt out the resistor and what ever else got in the way.

THis is only a big deal if you have to pass emissions and you are counting on everything to work right. IT WON'T. The Swithcing solenoid won't feed vacuum to the acv when it should/should not.

I have not thought much about how this effects the tps output. Maybe later. Just trying to finally get something right with this thread. What I wrote above has been proof read and meets my standards. What a darn mess.

I'll try to attach a schematic tomorrow and it should make what was written above a little more clear.

HAILERS

It's tomorrow now: http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=33230

WAYNE88N/A

You da man, Hailers....

Now, who had the original problem? Hondahater, I guess? Sorry, but I'm too lazy to read it all again...Anyway, if the switching solenoid circuit is bust, and you still want split air to go to the cat(s), no worries...The switching valve in the ACV is preloaded closed to block the port air passage, which allows air to flow to the split air solenoid valve unimpeded. What the switching solenoid does is route vac to the switching valve to open the port air passage and close the split air passage (see the ACV cutaway in the FSM, page 4A-38 for the S4's). This obviously won't happen now that the switching solenoid circuit is inop in the ECU...So, you just won't have port air now. No biggie, unless you have to pass emissions, like Hailers said. Even so, you'll still have cat air injection working when the split air solenoid is energized (the ECU does this) in 5th gear (right, Hailers, lol). You could actually rig the vac lines at the switching solenoid valve to dump port air for emission purposes, let us know if you need to this down the road...

Now, why do you think this will affect TPS, Hailers? The two check lights only depend on the two solenoids being energized or not, just for comparison purposes for the TPS idle voltage. In other words, Mazda wanted the TPS to be adjusted to the 1 volt AND have the one valve energized AND have the other de-energized to satisfy emissions criteria at idle- but the TPS circuit is totally seperate from the emissions solenoids. TPS is an INPUT to the ECU, while the solenoids are an OUTPUT from the ECU...

locketine

I don't need to pass emisions, but i do want everything working in stock form. I will be just be fixing the resistor and ne other burnt components. I'm assuming that since the resistor was burnt behond recognition that there was some kinda surge in the system.....can I assume no other component outside of the ecu was damaged?

locketine

the resistor is 3.9 ohms +/- 5% tolerance just incase someone was wondering

hugues

I guess you can try just replacing the burnt resistors assuming the car is working just fine otherwise. If it was me, I would get another ECU from a forum member or ebay. You should be able to get one for under $30 (that's how much I paid for an extra one on ebay).

I would also triple-check the wiring to whatever sensor/solenoid the ECU pin is pointing to.

HAILERS, if you read this, do you ever check your pm's ?

hugues-

HAILERS

*****some kinda surge in the system*****

Could be but most likely it was as I mentioned above ....someone rigged two bug lights to check the TPS and did not use LED'S but used some bulb that drew too much current and whacked the circuit. It's a common problem seen on this site and the other site.

After you replace the resistor it's not hard to see if the circuit works anymore or not. The SWITCHING SOLENOID, the GREY one, should energize when you step on the pedal and rev the engine or accelerate. Just run a meter to pin 2O and look at the meter as you rev a fully warmed up engine. Most likely it won't make you fail emissions because during the test the engine is held at a steady rpm/speed and since it's under 3800 rpm most of the acv air will go to the Port Air/exaust ports, not to the Split Air.

I don't KNOW, but I'd bet more than that resistor is burnt out. You'll find out when you check to see if the Switching Solenoid is working or not.

EDITL and forget any mention I might have made about the tps circuit being effected. Most likely not. I was just mulling. Probably just the Switching circuit, a minor player in the scheme of things.