88 Se with 91 GXL engine?
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88 Se with 91 GXL engine? Can it Be done?
Will the 91 GXL engine fit in a 88 se? I have a 88 with 224,444 miles on it. I also have a 91 GXL engine sitting in my garage. I was wondering would the 91 engine fit in the 88 body? What would I all have to do to make it fit?
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Last edited by stupify; 02-22-03 at 10:28 PM.
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It'll work, you just have to change a couple of things. First off, you can either a) block off the electronic OMP and run premix or swap the front cover for a series 4 mechanical pump cover b) swap engine harnesses (series 5 won't plug into the series 4 ecu) c) swap injectors d) you can either swap intakes for the series 4's (suggested as the series 5 5th & 6th ports won't function on the series 4 ecu) d) depending on C, if you swaped intakes skip past, otherwise you need to hook up the TPS, series 5's came with a dual TPS, you can either pull them off the bracket and mount a series 4, or rewire the dual, upto you. I think that's about it.
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
It'll work, you just have to change a couple of things. First off, you can either a) block off the electronic OMP and run premix or swap the front cover for a series 4 mechanical pump cover b) swap engine harnesses (series 5 won't plug into the series 4 ecu) c) swap injectors d) you can either swap intakes for the series 4's (suggested as the series 5 5th & 6th ports won't function on the series 4 ecu) d) depending on C, if you swaped intakes skip past, otherwise you need to hook up the TPS, series 5's came with a dual TPS, you can either pull them off the bracket and mount a series 4, or rewire the dual, upto you. I think that's about it.
It'll work, you just have to change a couple of things. First off, you can either a) block off the electronic OMP and run premix or swap the front cover for a series 4 mechanical pump cover b) swap engine harnesses (series 5 won't plug into the series 4 ecu) c) swap injectors d) you can either swap intakes for the series 4's (suggested as the series 5 5th & 6th ports won't function on the series 4 ecu) d) depending on C, if you swaped intakes skip past, otherwise you need to hook up the TPS, series 5's came with a dual TPS, you can either pull them off the bracket and mount a series 4, or rewire the dual, upto you. I think that's about it.
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I t hought that.........
if you strip the S5 engine to the block, you can simply transfer intake, etc. from the S4 block.
I also thought the only thing different otherwise was the S5 engine doesn't have an opening for a S4 EGR(?, or what ever it's called) valve on the top of the block. But, all you have to do is block off the vacume hose that otherwise runs to the EGR (?) valve.
Therefore, I thought the only issue is you need to swap front covers so you can mount the mechanical oil meter pump AND be sure and use a S5 flywheel or S5 counterweight with aftermarket lightened/aluminum flywheel.
Are my thunks wrong?
I also thought the only thing different otherwise was the S5 engine doesn't have an opening for a S4 EGR(?, or what ever it's called) valve on the top of the block. But, all you have to do is block off the vacume hose that otherwise runs to the EGR (?) valve.
Therefore, I thought the only issue is you need to swap front covers so you can mount the mechanical oil meter pump AND be sure and use a S5 flywheel or S5 counterweight with aftermarket lightened/aluminum flywheel.
Are my thunks wrong?
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Hozz: No, that's absolutely right. I was just stating that if you left the s5 intakes. Since he has a series 4 engine already, it's not going to cost him much, just a matter of how much he's willing to do. All he really has to do is strip the series 5 to bareblock and transfer all the series 4 stuff to it. And, you're right, the series 4's didn't have an EGR valve (that I'm aware of). He can either block off the OMP or swap front covers, blocking it off is obviously easier, but it requires you to remember to premix. I just stated that he could keep the series 5 intakes and so forth and what would be required then, I tried to list all the possibilities at once.
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Anytime. If you're not afraid to get your hands dirty and to actually spin a few wrenches, I'm sure you could do it and it'd be relatively cheap (just the cost of new gaskets), but if you're afraid of screwing something up, then it's better to find the same year engine. Oh, and the 91 engine will give you a little bit better performace as well.
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Oh, and the 91 engine will give you a little bit better performace as well.
With all S4 bolt ones?
Also, are my "Thunks" correct if I want to put a S5 block in my GSL-SE?
Also, are my "Thunks" correct if I want to put a S5 block in my GSL-SE?
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Yeah. The series 5 engines had higher compression. Now... a s5 block in a GSL-SE is waaay beyond me, I've never done anything with a first gen and I don't even know where to begin with that.
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SonicRaT do you think it would be worth the time? I was going to streetport the 91 engine as wheel. But I guess the main question now is do you think its worth the time and the money?
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Well... It's definatly worth it for you to use it in your car, especially if theres low miles on the 91 engine, it's very hard to convert over, it gives you better performance, and it's not going to cost you a new engine. Now... Street porting it, if you're planning on doing it yourself that's a whole new story! If you're going to have someone else do it for you (send the engine to them) Then it's still worth your time to use the 91 engine.
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I'm going to have someone else do the streetport but would it be worth the time to put the 91 engine into the 88 body or should I just find a 88 motor to streetport? The 88 motor I have has 224,444 miles on it so I don't think I want to use that motor for a rebuild.
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
Go with the 91. Higher compression rotors, less miles, you already own it, what's there not to like?
Go with the 91. Higher compression rotors, less miles, you already own it, what's there not to like?
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Well, it could be as little as two days, if you have all the gaskets/etc before you start. But chances are you'll discover a ripped injector o-ring or something that you'll want to replace so it may take a bit longer, or you'll see something that you're not sure of and ask us, so *shrug* It shouldn't take anymore than a few days to swap the intakes and wiring harness. The front cover is the real challenge, if you're up for swapping that then I'll explain all that's involved with that. Otherwise just block it off and run premix and don't worry about it.
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
Well, it could be as little as two days, if you have all the gaskets/etc before you start. But chances are you'll discover a ripped injector o-ring or something that you'll want to replace so it may take a bit longer, or you'll see something that you're not sure of and ask us, so *shrug* It shouldn't take anymore than a few days to swap the intakes and wiring harness. The front cover is the real challenge, if you're up for swapping that then I'll explain all that's involved with that. Otherwise just block it off and run premix and don't worry about it.
Well, it could be as little as two days, if you have all the gaskets/etc before you start. But chances are you'll discover a ripped injector o-ring or something that you'll want to replace so it may take a bit longer, or you'll see something that you're not sure of and ask us, so *shrug* It shouldn't take anymore than a few days to swap the intakes and wiring harness. The front cover is the real challenge, if you're up for swapping that then I'll explain all that's involved with that. Otherwise just block it off and run premix and don't worry about it.
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We'll be here. Also, be sure you get all new gaskets as to avoid any damned vacuum leaks that'll cost you your sanity. You can get them from http://www.mazdatrix.com or other sources, but I can't recall them off the top of my head. Good luck and let us know what you decide. (oh, btw, be SURE to ask us before you try tackling the front cover, there's a lot to know before you do that one!)
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