Can't hit 250 RWHP in a non turbo without aftermarket ECU (install and tuning $1500+) major porting, and fuel mods ($2000-$3000+)

It would not be very streetable either.

Remember 250 at the wheels is around 300 at the flywheel. (figuring 20% driveline loss- which is about what the FC has). 250 at the wheels you are asking for more than a 115% increase in power over stock.

So the only options near the 200-250 RWHP range for under $2K is N2O, or turboing, or going with a Turbo motor.

 

i'm sure they compensated for the added boost levels with the freed up exhaust also....

that was sarcasm, most of the power did come from the additional boost which was power the turbo created, granted it was because the exhaust opened it up but you can also up the boost on a stock car to get more power. my point is to get an accurate idea of additional power the boost level should be kept even before and after.

their numbers are a little skewed in that aspect.


and like i already said, it isn't possible on his budget, why do people think it is? think i'm lying or just an idiot for stating something obvious.... nitrous is about the closest you will come, at the expense of your engine.

 

Once you go to a full 3" exhaust you can't technically boost "stock" boost levels anymore... But yea RB for the lose... That's just a bunch of marketing CRAP...

 

Damn If I can get this 88TII registered I will have it dynoed without the RB and with the RB then add the hks intake and post the results.. That's if it gets registered. Some fuckface lost the copy of the registration and has been dicking me around for 2 months. Yeah he's enjoying my cash, while I am now debating whether or not to part out a perfectly usefull TII that I can't register!

 

get him to claim lost ownership...

 

hmm this sounds interesting. I wonder if that will work since it's two different states we are in.

 

Maybe a stupid question, and slightly off-topic, but; Is there a way to reduce driveline loss?

 

1. super OVERKILL clutch
2. some type of carbon or harder driveshaft
3. lighter and harder axles
...there is more

The biggest thing is that you still need to get the entire mass of the drivetrain moving, even if you reduce the wieght (and thereby somewhat reduce strength) you STILL have weight to move and would still have driveline loss, its a fact of life

 

Besides what Classic mentioned:


Synthetics in the tranny, rear end and bearings helps, but only by a percent or two at best.

But one percent you are only gaining back about 2 peak HP (depending on motor).

I found that the Super lightweight shock proof in the tranny and rear end was about a 3 HP peak gain back on my vert, but its a very slippery oil and in some cases the tranny can get ahead of the shift (requires you to make your shifts with very high precision and double clutching on the lower gears or you grind gears).

In the case where your shifting abilities are not quite as good, sticking with Redline MT 90 is probably a better case, as it has slightly more frictional loss and slows the gear box back down when free wheeling between gears.

 

Rotaries don't work without a turbo

Sell your car, add the sale price to your $2000 budget for your mods plan and buy a TII instead.. . sounds good?

 

That was my idea awhile ago too but then i can find a damn tII anywhere around me...92804 socal area. So yeah i guess i'll just do some mods like cai and full exhaust set up. No porting for sure kuz thats too much money already. Hey what intake systems would u guys recommend for an N/A 7. The only ones i see is basically a filter with adapter (ie. K&N n Blitz) What else is there to choose from?

Thanks alot for all that great input guys....maybe 180hp is a more realistic goal with my budget. Thanks agen everyone

 

or check the classified section West RX7 section and see if anyone parting out there car
buy a TII engine, and the component ull need but that may add up too and time consuming. But still look for TII.

 

Do a turbo-N/A in your 88 GTU like i am!!!