Yeah we can have a look at that. We have a timing light at the house, and we re-marked the timing marks with paint marker to make them more visible.

 

I'm still suspecting the compression is wonky in that engine - we did a test on it when we got back from dragging it down the road. Front rotor was 050 048 046 at 223rpm. Rear was showing 000 020 000 at 300rpm or something (though it was showing a bunch of different readings). I don't think any amount of timing is going to fix that.

 

most likely not and happens all too often when someone tries to rebuild an engine and fails to pay attention to the details that matter.

 

Yup. Last one we assembled started up first crank.

Oh well, this gives me a little push to go bigger with this build!

Next plan:
6 port bridgeport (has turbo rotors in it - don't ask - I didn't build it) - was assembled with all new parts and we have had it running but of course didn't have high enough compression rotors to run as an NA and make any power, so time to slap a turbo on it. I have a set of S5 NA rotors kicking around in my other running engine as well...

My guess on what I need to do this:
- Full rebuild kit including apex seals
- Upgraded injectors - any suggestions on sizing?
- Some upgraded cooling
- T2 transmission/flywheel/clutch/starter
- Mazdatrix adapter driveshaft

Already have upgraded fuel system, adjustable FPR, adaptronic standalone, 6-port turbo kit, so I'm like...part of the way there. LOL

 

By the way, if this plan sounds not all that well thought out yet, it was hatched on Saturday night after 4 glasses of wine with 4 rotorheads at like 11pm. LOL All while my husband was going "Hey, that's my bridgeport, back off!!"

 

well you have the standalone so bigger injectors than what you anticipate needing vs the bare minimum to just get by.

 

Any suggestions on sizing for a 6-port BP w/ turbo (12ish PSI maybe? Still a street car, and I'll be running a boost controller). 725? 850? 1000? Assuming I'll pick up a set of Injector Dynamics or something.

 

really depends on the turbo you choose

 

Already have it, just don't know the exact specs on it. I think it says AR 60 on the compressor side it? It's a "Rotomaster", but my understanding is it's similar to a T04. It came in the old "Cartech" turbo kit.

 

720/1000 is plenty then, if you plan to later really upgrade a bit you could go 1000/1680or2000

 

You can check timing just by cranking. You would just need to lock the timing to base timing in the adaptronic (you would need to do this with the engine running anyway) and crank it over, preferably with the fuel pump disconnected.

What are you guys using to test compression? If its electronic, sure its not a bad sensor? Very rarely do you get 0 psi. If you stick your hand in front of plugs do you feel a pulse?

thewird

 

i get 0s on my digital gauge once compression is nearly nonexisten, ie less than 20psi. i believe they're using a twisted rotors and i kinda assume it'd do similar. these are hydraulic sensors, they may work for air pressure but they do not work all that well once the air pressure drops drastically.

and i can believe it, i've heard low compression engines, lots of them and i could tell in that video that it was having difficulty with compression. probably built an engine that spit a seal on a rotor and the seal slot was burred, stuck the new seal. maybe even lied and it has reused housings from chunked seals which would explain the really low compression on the one rotor as well.

 

Yeah, we're using the Twisted Rotors unit. We use it fairly often and the sensor seems like it's all good sensor wise. Gives accurate readings on the last few FC's we did, as well as an RX8.

I think one thing I'm going to do is pull the harness out of the car as well and recheck it before we put another engine in, because there seem to be some inconsistencies in it and some hacked bits.

 

We can give that a try to check the timing, but I suspect the problem is going to be internal in the engine.


Or...could be that the injector wiring is all messed up - there are some inconsistencies there that I wonder about.

 

Although, it's starting to sound like more fun to chuck a bridgeport in it and call it a day.

 

i say just go for it then, its apparent that the engine in the car is toast and you want a scapegoat to tell you to do it so when your husband asks who told you you can point the finger at me.

 

Excellent!

(already have a lightened T2 flywheel and S4 counterweight on the way and a line on a T2 transmission).

Thinking I'll take out the S4 turbo rotors that are in the bridgeport and replace them with the new s4 N/A rotors pair I have (since it's going to be mildly boosted - don't want to go all the way to the S5 rotors, and I'd need a different counterweight - and I want it to be usable without the turbo if we decide to drop it in the race car as well).

Let the fun begin!

DGRR 2017 or bust!

 

yep, might be a reason for me to clean my car and go for a drive in it again. no more sevenstock, deals gap is the closest now.

 

We'll be there this year in the RX8 likely since the convertible won't be ready. Next year, another story.

It's an 1800 mile drive each way for us. LOL