solareon

iTrader: (1)

I am having some issues with my 87 turbo starting. It won't start regardless of it being hot or cold. Also after a few trys a turning it over it starts dripping fuel off the turbo wastegate. I think it's an issue with my vacuum line routing. Below is a picture.



Here is how I think it's supposed to look for an s4



Any help would be greatly appreciated.

mzrx7man

iTrader: (9)

dripping fuel off the wastegate? you mean through the wastegate shaft? holy ****, uve dumped enough fuel to run the car for a minute, lol. u getting spark?

mzrx7man

iTrader: (9)

btw u should buy a block off plate kit and remove all that ****. that vacuum line wont keep your car from starting. sounds like u have no spark. check for spark then pull ur plugs out and egi fuse and crank your motor until all that fuel blows out.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

what's a good way to check for spark on a rotary? I won't be able to mess around with this too much until thursday. And for the block off plate kit that removes the Air bypass valve thing?

solareon

iTrader: (1)

also where should I hook up the boost gauge and the pressure sensor line too?

mzrx7man

iTrader: (9)

connect a timing light to the L1 wire, crank the motor and see if it flashes. yes, the block off plate kit removes the ACV. to remove all smog and the "rats nest" you can search on how to do it since there's probably ton of threads on this. here is a link to a site that sells them, these are really nice

http://www.2751engineering.com/2751parts.html

boost gauge and pressure sensor should go to "Line A."

Bama420

iTrader: (1)

No, not to remove the Air Bypass Valve. That is currently your blow-off valve. The ACV is not that. He is referring to the emissions.

mzrx7man

iTrader: (9)

oh **** ur right, i didnt realize he was talking about the BOV. connect that to manifold vacuum also.

freemanrx7

Cover that boost guage line with some small rubber line. I just just cut it down the middle and put it over the line. This will protect it from heat.

Buy new plugs (NGK)

Make sure you have spark!

If it's really flooded out a teaspoon of oil in the bottom spark plugs holes can help make comp.

I just finished removing smog.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

So connect the Boost Gauge, Pressure sensor, and the Air Bypass Valve all to the back nipple (line a) on the intake side and cap the lower nipple (line b)?

rx7fan1903

It could be electrical, you know. New battery? Spark plugs? As for the leaking fuel, I haven't the slightest idea, to be honest with you... Sorry

solareon

iTrader: (1)

Well I got it running today after pulling all the plugs and then cranking it without the EGI fuse in. Bunch of fueled puked out the spark plug holes and I cranked it until it was dry. Put 4 new NGK plugs in and triple checked all the wires were on the correct plug and coil. She started up only after holding the pedal to the floor and turning the key. It then started kicking out a bunch of white smoke (coolant) from the turbo area and the exhaust. It's leaking right where the coolant line going into the turbo enters the engine. I suspect it's a failed gasket or something isn't tight enough.

After I got it started it still won't hold an idle. It revs freely when throttle is applied and the exhaust note is good and strong. I wasn't paying attention to the boost gauge to see if it was boosting correctly.

Any ideas on why it's running so rich with the throttle closed (tps?)

freemanrx7

I had the same problem with my coolant line when I put the turbo back on. You can buy some gasket material and cut your own gasket. Also try using some gasketNICH ( It's spelled diffrently). DO NOT try and over tighten it will cause the studs to break. Ask me how I know!!!



SO how did you run your vac hoses?

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

TPS could be malfunctioning, it could also be the AFM sending an incorrect amount of fuel due to it malfunctioning. I suspect you have a vacuum leak or more than one which Is probably why its not idling.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

in regards to troubleshooting the afm what options do I have?
pull it out clean it and slap it back in. I've also seen some people pulling the battery to get it to reset or whatever.

I'm building the TPS test light tonight and will try that tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice on the gasket material I will try that tomorrow as well.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

was playing around with it again today. It will start while holding the gas to the floor and then after it grabs popping off the gas and then feathering it slowly to about 1000 rpms. If I just let it idle there it sits at somewhere around like 300-450 rpms and the car will shake pretty bad. I still haven't fixed my coolant leak but I am heading back outside now to fix that.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

bad news. the coolant line going into the turbo the stud on the engine side is busted off =(

what should I do about that?

freemanrx7

Don't worry. I just took the studs out and used bolts I bought from Ace hardware. IF you can try to soak the stud with some wd40 and unscrew it with some plyers. You shouldn't have to tap it. YOu may have to bend the pipe back a little. Make sure to measure the studs and by bolts that will have the same length.

DID you use and gasket sealer?

THis is normal on a 20year old car. Welcome to the 7 world.....

solareon

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if the p/o did or not but I want to get it off and clean that gasket.

freemanrx7

Go buy some gasket material sheets it's only a few bucks and you can cut out a new one. You will also have alot leftover to make new gaskets downt the road.

Where you able to get the stud out?

solareon

iTrader: (1)

yeah i got this set of Irwin Power-grips. took that thing out super easy. now I just need a new stud and clean off that surface. I got the gasket material and the super copper ultra mega rtv sealant stuff too.

freemanrx7

Well if your going to use studs replace the other one 2. I bought bolts and it seals fine. If you zoom in on the pic I posted you can see the bolts.

As far as rtv sealant goes I think there is better stuff out there. It will probably work but use it sparringly.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

found the new gasket. Bought it at the mazda dealer for like $3.80. It'll be here on tuesday. I picked up a new bolt to replace the busted stud. It's M6x1.0x25mm grade 8.8, should that do the trick for the other side?

freemanrx7

Just compare it to the stud length and also realize the flange has a little bit of lenght aswell.

As I was saying before you could have bought a gasket paper material and cut your own. Then still had paper left over for more gaskets. I also used gaskanich and it sealed no problem.