So here is some background, a month ago my radiator blew up. it got pretty hot (like a bit above 3/4)and coolant spewed everywhere from the top of the radiator. I got it home and didnt touch it for about a month. I got a radiator last week, installed it today, car fired up (smoked like crazy from sitting for a month without being turned on) and it idled just fine. I noticed that it started to heat up higher than midway after about 15 minutes so I turned it off and noticed that the cap that came with the radiator was leaking. took it off and replaced it (it had a bad seal). Tried to fire up the car and nothing, just cranked. I figured I flooded the car so I did the de-flooding process and i got it to tried to fire up. I cleaned the plugs once more and put 20-50 oil into the top holes and tried again. again the car tried to fire up and a ton of smoke came out but it didnt start. Anyone have any input?

The car is not stock and does need a tune bad as it runs very rich on start up but normally it will fire up. when I take the plugs out they are covered in gas indicating its flooded.

 

Totally deflood the car..not just pour oil in the holes.
You have to stop Fuel,as in remove the EGI Fuse to not get fuel while you try to deflood the car or else it is just counterproductive.

 

what color was the smoke when it started?

White smoke is bad

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it was white smoke from sitting too long, after the initial start up there was no more smoke. if i let it sit for a while it would start up and puff some white smoke then it wouldnt do it anymore. that used to happen to my na rx7 too and to my celica, it has a lot to do with the humidity and moisture down here especially during the summer time.

but like i said the smoke was less than a minute and then no more and it had steady idle like always.

i did do the deflooding before the oil part, i was just typing that in as after i did the rest ie pulling the relays, plugs and such.

one thing that always confuses me is that some people say put the oil in the leading holes and other say trailing, which one is the right one? this happened before when I took it to get dyno'd I flooded it and did the deflooding process for about 3 hours. right now both my batteries i have are dead so I will charge them up at work and go at it again tomorrow. but someone chime in at which holes am i supposed to put the oil into

 

Bump

 

I have never used motor oil for a decarb/deflood procedure, always ATF or marvel mystery oil ( MMO )

never had success cleaning spark plugs for these cars either, get the car running on the dirty plugs, take it for a ride blow it out and put fresh plugs, not cleaned plugs in

 

How many times should I do the deflood procedure? And which plugs should I take out, the leadingplugs? I had a good deflood procedure but I cant seem to find it and its been a bit since I last did this

 

its been a while since I have had to do it but this is how I always did it and I used to get some cars that sat for a year or so and were parked because they couldnt get them started

remove all plugs, remove relays. Crank engine a bit to "clean out"
Put leading plugs in
Pour a little MMO into trailing holes using small flexible funnel
give it a few cranks again
few more drops of oil

let sit a day or two, on day 2 you can crank again, few more drops of oil ( a few dont fill the the housings- a few drops )

remove all plugs, crank again
install all plugs, confirm firing order, install relays and attempt to start. If it doesnt start right away I pull the plug under the console ( this way you can do this by yourself )
dont flood the car out again by continuing to crank with the fuel pump going
once it starts plug harness back in under console.
Watch smoke show, let car run a bit, run it a little higher RPM, when it seems stable take it for a easy ride, if all seems well get on the car a bit to really clean it out

let cool down real good and install fresh plugs

try to use a fresh battery connected to a charger if it doesnt turn over right away

 

thanks i will do that, i have two batteries charging right now, a standard acid battery and my optima. i shouldnt have turned it off as soon as i did but i didnt want it to over heat again. Once I get it deflooded i need to get it tuned badly, it dumps waaaaaaay too much fuel on start up. Im running a microtech lt8 with 1600 secondaries and 770 primaries. blah, lol.

 

+1 to no engine oil as a compression supplement. engine oil will foul the plugs in short order and they will most likely never recover. the microtech also REALLY hates even minorly fouled plugs.

replace the lead spark plugs and use MMO or ATF in the future.

 

maybe before you go too much further you should get that microtech a little better of a start up or base map if its running that bad

 

if it ran before i would advise against messing with the microtech UNTIL he has the car starting and running reasonably again. too many times i've seen people compound issues by moving away from the initial problem.

 

ok but it also sounds like his shitty start up settings might compound his aggravations as well

easiest thing for him to do is to try deflood and see if it starts, then he can figure out his overheat and sort out. Sounds like there is too much going on already how much worse can it get, lol

 

Well the over heat was figured out the radiator was replaced and the faulty cap was replaced, I just have to unflood it, its been sitting for two days so hopefully I can get it up and running

 

so guess what there is coolant leaking from the intake manifold gasket, im guessing the coolant is leaking into the combustion chaimber from there preventing the car from starting. someone want to chime in on my theory here? there is quite a bit of coolant on the passenger side of the engine starting from the intake manifold gasket

 

coolant does goto the intake and is sealed with orings, perhaps its leaking there .

let me show u a pic of where these orings are

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see the two circular spots close to the intake ports in the center (there's a hole on one side the other is flat), those are both sealed with rubber orings.



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I know where the orings are in the intake and that they keep coolant from getting into the gas mixture, im thinking that these went out from the overheat along with the actual gasket on the manifold and the coolant is mixing with the gas which is fouling the plugs and not igniting.

**just saw the picture, yeah its leaking from there cause its coming from the manifold like that. Im going to take it apart this weekend and confirm, then just order the gasket set from online for like 18 bucks

 

good luck , taking off the lim might require taking off the Turbo which sucks

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if the manifold is sealed properly then the coolant leak should not be getting into the chambers.

 

even if the gasket and the orings on the manifold are blown because thats what it seems like at this point.

and i dont have the stock turbo anymore so I wouldnt need to remove the turbo in order to take apart the intake manifold

 

have fun with that, i still doubt it is your problem.

 

what would you think the problem is?

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it sounds like he is thinking a rebuild but i dont think thats the problem. but again if the manifold gasket is blown or warped and the coolant seals inside the manifold are blown then the intake manifold wouldnt be sealed now would it? and if that wasnt the issue why would i be spilling coolant out that side as I try to start it?

 

well if the coolant system was leaking internally it'd mean a rebuild

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