back again with another t2 mystery mobile,

so I just towed this sucker home on the weekend and have been making progress
and reading a TON of posts on the forums and still need a bit of guidance on some stuff.

at first I couldn't get the car so start at all, just made a single click noise when trying to start the car from the ignition.
I replaced the starter with a brand new one. now I can get it to crank BUT it is a very weak crank and every random 10 times or so itll crank normally but still wont start.
brand new battery btw

heres where things get weird. I can start the car once a day in the morning and get it to run smoothly but only once a day. it wont idle however ever. and I cannot get it to start again for the life of me.

I have noticed the car is deff flooding itself using the egi fuse trick and have trying to unflood it. I do notice the plugs getting covered with fuel/oil and clean them before trying to start again but never any luck. the car will still start only once a day...

just today I was able to start the car once like I can once a day and have a friend adjust my idle higher and finally drive the car around the block. I noticed a huge! loss of power I mean this thing wasn't going anywhere but could still hear the blow off valve when shifting, I got it home to my driveway and noticed upon reving there was a lot of smoke coming from my exhaust.

carbon buildup maybe? car is running premix and is a freshly built motor by mazdatrix. the turbo had been rebuilt and also noticing tht the turbo itself seems to have smoke coming from underneath it in the engine bay when running.
my oil cap sprayed oil everywhere leading me to turn my car off and come for some futther advice.

long post... could really use some help guidance

 

If you got oil coming from the filler cap then your oil tube may not be vented.
The nipple on the oil tube and the center Iron need to vent to atmosphere OR lead to the Charcoal cannister.
If not,the oil pressure wil cause the oil to go anywhere it can..and it can bypass the oil control rings and cause smoke out of the exhaust..like it is burning oil.which in a way it is.

 

gonna check the venting here ina sec and make sure nothing is messed up, long day ahead of me trying to figure some of this stuff out

 

Do you have a new exhaust on it or an older one for a clogged catalytic converter can zap power from the engine.

 

compression test, regardless if it is a new engine it could have internal issues.

following that i would check the ignition and change the spark plugs, could simply be a fouled plug or wires crossed.

 

4in downpipe with no cats leading to a racing beat dual exhaust,
just put in brand new ngk plugs

there was one of the vents blocked off I just led another tube for venting. I can smell a bit of gasoline in the oil cap, im assuming from being flooded several times before I got the car.

im gonna buy a tester this week to get the compression tested.

 

another possibility is improper injector clip routing. both primary injector clips placed on the #1 rotor primary and secondary injectors for example.

are all the plugs wet with gasoline or is it dedicated to a single rotor?

 

plugs are wet on both rotors,
It seems pretty oily as well as wet with gasoline

 

if there's oil on the plugs then something is wrong. check the intercooler for oil pooling up inside(bad turbo), if it's dry then you may have gotten a junk engine.

 

will do gonna check that right now. the car runs on premix as an added note

 

just checked the intercooler. no pooling of oil but some oil residue on the inside on of the elbow fittings on both sides.

 

got the car started just now,surprisingly
my once a day....
the new vent tube i added from the nipple that was blocked before now has smoke coming from it after motor warms up.
turbo is still smoking as always =/

 

all i can say is: i hope you got a warranty on the engine still, sounds like you may need it.

the turbo smoke could just be from a poorly sealed drain/feed line fitting.

 

if it is i have no paperwork sadly... im gonna grab a compression tester and hope for the best. if not looks like ill be in for a long ride on this t2

 

after finding gas in my oil ill be doing an oil change today and should be receiving my comp tester today so says usps.. will be posting results later.
wishing I had a low profile jack right about now.

 

i got this. Aluminum Floor Jack - 1.5 Ton Aluminum Racing Jack

works great. car is in the air in 30 sec.

good luck..

 

damn thanks! exactly what ive been looking for. thankfully I got a harborfreight right down the street. good looking out

 

sure enough the worst i had thought was true.
the rear rotor is done...
reading 71 front and 0.... on the rear

not good results. im hoping the housings and rotors are salvageable and i can start to save for a rebuild along with a new turbo setup.

thanks everyone for the help and replys much appreciated!

 

sorry to hear, not like i really wanted to be right.

 

my 90 fc3s turbo also have blown i think...
the boost only reach 0.4bar at full throttle and full load on awd mainline dynolog....
any suggestion of type turbo i should change

 

could fuel wash possibly cause that low of a reading?

I assume you've checked for leaks? checked the wastegate?

 

flooding wouldn't give a 0 reading, especially on only just one rotor. after the engine fires it would unwash that chamber anyways and bring the numbers back up.

 

yeah the rear is toast I had trouble even pulling into my driveway sadly.
test was done after car was warmed up and had no excessive fuel in the chambers

 

wastegate already checked... original bov already blocked... and actuator hose already stripped down...
no more boost
the longer i run on dyno.... the hooter the engine...
and the less boost i achieve

 

a blown engine will still make boost, if it still runs.