Hey guys,

I cant get the engine to crank over. The solinoid makes a noise but thats it. I bench tested the starter and its ok.

Voltage at the B/W connector is 1volt less than batt. voltage. So I ran a jumper in place of the B/W wire from B+ to the starter and the same thing, solinoid makes noise but no crank.

I tested the Battery cables with an Ohm meter (pos to neg) and got 4 ohms! The neg. cable is attached to the block via the top starter bolt and a nut. Is this correct?

I know that something is shorted I just dont know were to start looking.

Thanks,
Mark

 

pictures might help more. your description has left me a little confused about exactly what you mean, especially about testing the resistance across your battery cables.

 

make sure the engine is not locked up

 

Thanks for your help so far!

The motor isnt locked up you can push the car around in gear. You can even get it spining pretty good with a 3/8ths rachet. The car was half torn apart when I got it.

I just wanted to get the harness correct before I rip it all apart again. Let me try one more time to explain.

There is a voltage drop of one volt between the battery and the signal wire on the starter (B/W)

When I turn the key to START the solinoid on the starter makes noise but doesnt turn the motor.

Ive bench tested the starter and its fine.

I put a charger on the car turned the key to ACC and the tach went to 3k and the injectors started making noise. Same thing when you switch to START, noise but no crank.

I then Ohm'd the POS and NEG cables for the battery and got 0 ohms. Is this correct? The NEG cable is grounded to the block via the top starter bolt and a nut.

I dont have any more time today to mess with it but my plan for tomorrow is to check the voltages from the Battery ->IGN Switch ->Clutch Switch ->Starter Cut Relay ->Starter

That and check for missing grounds.

Off to study the FSM!
Thanks Mark

 

Well I'm no electrical wiz but one thing that doesnt sound right is the ground. I would possibly try and, at least, add a second ground closer to the battery off the chassis. Make sure it is the proper gauge wire and ad good ground obviously. You also might want to look into a good grounding kit.

 

Make sure the one LARGE wire on the starter is on good AND has 12v on it. IT comes directly from the battery positive terminal.

THEN, make sure the battery negative cable is connected either to the starters LONG bolt or at least to one of the bolts that hold the transmission on. This cable runs directly from the battery negative post to the starter. It does have a branch coming off it going to the chassis and that is located just below the left strut tower. Not as important as the cable actually being bolted to the starters long bolt or at least one of the transmission attach bolts.

THEN, get a screwdriver, and with the car out of gear, jumper the screwdriver b/the the small blade on the starter solenoid and the LARGE wire on the solenoid. The starter should spin with the engine. Does it?

IF the answer is yes, then I"d suggest there is a weak connection b/t the ignition switch and the small wire on the small blade on the starter. Weak link as in not able to carry CURRENT. It might read 12v, but isn't carrying current.

 

There's something wrong with the tach going to three grand. How serious? Got me.

I suggest it's NOT the fuel injectors buzzing/clicking. It's the BAC going thru its duty cycle of approx 120hz. PUll the plug off the BAC and you won't hear the *fuel injectors clicking* anymore.

The wire to the starter solenoids small blade should have 12v only when the key is held to START. ON most RX the clutch pedal has to be depressed for the starter to work. The INerlock switch on the clutch pedal is the reason.

I guarantee you, the first thing I'd do is jumper b/t the small blade connector on the solenoid to the large power wire on the solenoid to see if the starter spins.

Also, lift your trail coils assy up and see if you have a BRIGHT BLUE jumper plug on the harness. IT has one wire in it that jumpers b/t two of the sockets on the plug it is attached to. Is that there? IF you have theft protection, don't bother to look. It won't be there.