I just did emissions delete, throttle body mod, and came with a full racing beat exhaust so I know I wont have a CAT issue, and all that was done because I was having a issue getting the vehicle to run. So now I can drive the vehicle, and it seems to boost ok but I keep having a issue that it feels like the car goes into limp mode and won't boost, can't go past 1/4 throttle, but if I turn the key off, and then back on it goes back to driving normal for a few minutes and does it again, and for some reason I can not figure out how to set my TPS between all the different write ups out there, if anyone could give me a hand with it I would appreciate it.

 

This is pretty straight forward. If you are still unsure as to how to set your TPS after reading the procedure below, contact a local member for assistance.


TPS Adjustment:

Start up the car and drive it or let it warm up until it is at full operating temperature. Turn the car off, then turn the key to the "ON" position. (Not "START")... Immediately get to the engine bay with your digital multimeter. Ground your multimeter's black wire/probe. With the red (positive) multimeter probe, probe the G/R (green wire, red stripe). Check to see that the multimeter says 1V. If it is over or under, adjust the TPS adjustment screw until 1V is reached. The TPS adjustment screw is located very near to the TPS. It requires a flat head screwdriver. Be very careful while adjusting... Do not push on the adjustment screw, as the multimeter reading will increase, and give you the poor idea of backing the adjustment screw out too far. Be delicate.

A little over or a little under doesn't make a world of difference. Car warmth DOES matter. Try doing this very quickly, as not to let the car cool down too much.

 

more importantly than just setting the TPS idle setting is doing a sweep of the throttle and checking for any breaks in the voltage reading, the ECU will go into decel fuel cut if the voltage drops during throttle input regardless of throttle input and airflow readings(same effect as boost cut).

 

Ok I even printed out the ALLDATA version of how to do it with two lights but I will go out and adjust it that way with my multi meter, and I made a full sweep of the TPS, I believe it is ok I just moved it up and down with my fingers to make sure I didn't see any issues, but right now I can't seem to get the throttle closed enough to get down to 1v, I seem to keep getting stuck at 1.78 as the low end.

 

Is the coolant hot and the thermowax disengaged?

 

One other thing I was thinking about, my coolant temp gauge doesn't go to far up from the cold mark, but I will put a thermometer in the coolant when I get to my shop later today to see what the temp actually is, but won't that give a issue as well after I get the TPS set?

 

The thermowax is taken off and so are the butterflys and those are blocked off as part of the TB MOD

 

I pulled my air flow meter off and measured all the OHM's and they all were ok except E2 to the REF section of it and it shows nothing, so I believe my REF signal from the AFM to the ECU is bad and that is what is causting me greef, but I also did a sweep of my TPS and it has a glitch when you get to 4.2 it skips to 5.6, so I believe I need BOTH sensors....Anyone know who has a spare set of good one's for sale? It will cost me $145 for each sensor threw my shop, I would like to save some money from that lol.

 

This site has a 2nd Gen parts for sale section!

Also, disconnect the AFM and then test the TPS as sometimes the AFM will short out the Vref signal to other sensors including the TPS.

 

I know it has a sale section lol, but I looked at the ECU just for ***** and giggles and there was a sticker on the front above the N332 section that said for off road use only min octane 92, then I opened it up and the fuel map chip was changed but has a sticker that said mazda fc3s 13bt 0385.spl . I have no idea who the chip is by or what but I took the ECU out and put in a stock N332 and it seemed a lot better but still getting the issue where it won't go over a certain RPM or throttle after a few times I hit the gas pedal, then I shut the key off for a second while driving, and start it back up and its fine for a few minutes and it repeats the process.

 

One other thing, what about it seeing to much knock, anything think that could be my issue??

 

only if it was an improper turbo conversion. if it's an n/a shell many times the knock sensor wire leads to the power steering load sensor and the car falls on it's face when turning.

 

Ok, it is a true TII car but has a japanese motor swapped into it if that matters or not about the running issue

 

I'm having the same problem