JCABSCP

Working on a 87 RX7 non-turbo, 5speed. The car will not start. It turns over normally but the plugs get fuel soaked. I've tested fuel pump pressure and it's at 40 psi, it also holds pressure, no noticeable leak down like a bad injector. We have spark at all plugs. I've tested the coolent sensor, TPS, air-flow meter etc. all seem to test within specs. Also checked for a plugged exhaust. Here's one question I did a compression test, on each bump it never got over 10psi on either rotor, now this is on a cold engine and one that obviously has been fuel soaked, I even removed the plugs disabled the fuel and turned it over to dry out the cylinders and applied a little oil to try to raise compression...nothing helped. I've read here and in the manual, compression should be over 85psi on a good engine, does it have to be? And what are some commen things that may cause this flooding condition. I also tried a new set of plugs. Any suggestions will be appreciated. I work on cars alot and own a 88 rx7 and just came across this sight recently seems like a great place. Thanks in advance

fastrotaries

check for ignition, and soak the combustion chamber overnight with some ATF (about 1oz in ea.). I really haven't found anything to better get rid of fuel, when i've flooded my engine. You could have a bad fround on the injector. And how exactly did you measure the compression? It should be over 85.

dr0x

Well, my motor that had fuel dripping off the spark plugs, had also not been started in 3 months still showed ~90psi on my gauge. And 85psi is the absolute minimum mazda recommends before rebuilding the motor. IMO, you should push start it. Get it going like 5k in first gear. If compression is really 10psi on each rotor once you get away from the vehicle pushing you, it would probably die @ idle (or any low rpm). Push starting will start ANY flooded motor if the plugs are still good.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

severe flooding...... Either time for a push start or the ATF trick.

Rat

JCABSCP

Thanks for the replies. To answer a one of your questions, I performed the compression test by removing one spark plug from each cylinder and using a regular type compression gauge( with schrader valve removed). Here's an update, the guy that owns it took it to repair shop where they changed the coolent temp sensor and plugs, it started and he drove it home, however, the following morning guess what, wouldn't start. When we were originally troubleshooting I tested the temp sensor and found it to be within specs for the temp the coolent was at, I also changed the plugs, but not at the same time. And it still doesn't explain the low compression readings. So I don't know. The car has 250k on it so you tell me. I don't think his problems are completely solved yet. Thanks again.

dr0x

Get the car started and pull the egi fuse. The fuel rail will depressurize and the car will stall out. Do another test. It wont be flooded when you do it this time, and should give you a more accurate reading. Of course or just use a fuel kill switch if the car has one.