I just sent an email inquiry to rc@rceng.com
I asked about any exchange service he might have...that way, I could get in there and finish out at the same time.
Your website page makes the UIM removal look pretty straightforward. Thanks!

 

Looks like I'll be sending the injectors to RC Engineering in Torrance. Nice lady called to answer some questions in response to my email.
There goes another parts order off to Mazdatrix: PD, thermostat, thermo sensor, silicone hoses, rad cap, intake gaskets, injector grommets....this is adding up!

 

Yours was the first response I got, and it is the direction I'm taking.
Do you have a story of a similar condition you can relate?

 

OK. this will be fairly easy and may Help. Coming from your CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) is a connector. Get some Electronics spray Cleaner and after disconnecting the connector, spray it really good inside and out. Then follow those wires and under the Brake Master Cylinder there is another one JUST LIKE IT...do the same thing. Can't hurt. Sometimes they get dirty especially the one under the MC with brake fluid and could be affecting that. I had another no start situation where mine would not start on either rotor, intermittently and it did solve that problem. Good Luck

 

try to that cleaning before you get those injectors out...It took me 3 years to get to that connector after spending about $1500 in that time...got lots of new parts though...and spares too....

 

Harley, I have recently cleaned the connector at the CAS, and I did the connectors under the MC some time ago....altho that was before I clamped my MC res to stop a drip onto those wires. I will get in there again (and remove the main relay) and clean some more. But the way this one-rotor starting happens really doesn't indicate an electrical problem, unless it's heat-related, like a coil. Probably not a connector. It consistently happens only after running to full temp, then sitting for over 5 minutes but less than two or three hours. First thing in the morning, it starts first time everytime and runs well.
You're right, these kinds of problems can be a bitch to solve. I guess the bright side is that the gas mileage should improve, and the PD will be safe for another decade...I'll be doing the thermal sensor also, and some vacc hoses. Far as I know, the injectors have never been cleaned, and it's a one-owner (the wife!) car. If I get it put back together properly, it can't hurt!

 

Its your coil most likely. Mine did that and I changed the coils. It stopped.

You will notice you have no rpm readings if its the case.

 

But I've never had the tach go dead. I did receive some used coils today in the mail and I might switch that hot-running trailing coil tonite.
You had the exact same symptoms? Started well when cold, but on one when hot?

 

I swapped out the trailing coil pack tonite, and cleaned 4 or 5 connectors under the MC and the coil in that area. It fired up nicely after the work, like usual. We'll see how it runs tomorrow...

 

RC ENG does good work. I sent my injectors over to them a while back. A+

Little pricey but doing it every 15,000-20,000 miles should keep the injectors in good standing and wont put a dent in your wallet.

 

Yes. Turns out my coils were ''jammed''.

 

It's running well so far today, with the coil swap. Restarted fine at the gas station.
I only swapped the trailing coil. If it does the one rotor number again I'll swap the leading coil.
Got my Mazdatrix order today. Gotta schedule the time to pull the UIM and grab those injectors out...

 

See, I told you so.

 

I hope you're right! The other work I will do will be icing! I'm sure the injector cleaning will be beneficial.
I've had coil problems before, on motorcycles. Anyone else notice that their trailing coil is too hot to touch after the cars been running?

 

The problem with this theory is that the trailing plugs do almost nothing for starting and running. They simply complete the burn that the leadings start, they clean up the last 5% of unburned gases. You can remove the trailing system entirely and the car will still run and drive pretty normally...the average person would not know they are not working.

 

And I've read where some people remove the trailing system and run without cats.
When (not if) it starts again on one, I'll change out the leading coil pack next.

 

The trailing coil made no difference at all. I drove it this afternoon for about an hour, and after parking it, it restarted on one. I'm gonna swap my trailing coil back in, and change out the leading coil pack next.
The Mazdatrix parts are nice. That PD is a tiny mother for the $$. Nice gaskets, grommets, o-rings, temp sensor, some new hose....love working with nice parts! Super fast shipping, too.

 

this may be nothing but its a guess im not sure if its on the na but on the turbo the orange solenoid controls fuel pressure when the engine is hot it increases the fuel pressure incase of fuel vapor in the rail. If this is not working it may cause a problem. hook up a pressure gauge and check your fuel pressure. doesnt hurt to try. if your in the by the la area i could help you out i just moved in by there. The pd is expensive but thats alot cheaper then buying a new car/ motor because your engine caught flames. theres a huge thread about it im glad your spending the money now. hope that helps a little

 

Just an FYI for the future... we do Injector cleaning as well. About $10 per injector cheaper than RC for the same service. Most injectors are turned around in 24hrs (not including shipping times)
http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=fuelinjectclean

 

So much for the idea that the coils are the problem. I swapped out the leading coil last nite, car ran good for 45 minutes this morning. Parked it for an hour, and it ran on one from then on.
So it's either the injectors, or a water seal on the rear rotor.

 

After sitting for 6 hours, it started and ran fine tonite.