87 N/A Redline horn
04-18-03, 04:36 PM
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87 N/A Redline horn
is there any way (besides disconecting the horn) to stop the horn from beeping when i redline??? I HATE IT ***almost as much as i hate driving automatics.
04-18-03, 04:53 PM
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i dont know if there is a way.is your actualy horn beeping at redline?or just the redline buzzer.if your redlining it enough for the buzzer to annoy you,your probably not treating your car well. look at the redline buzzer like this,its sayin "hey,this is cool once in while,and im only reminding you with this buzz that keeping it up here for a long time,will kill me"
04-18-03, 05:23 PM
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Originally posted by superevil
look at the redline buzzer like this,its sayin "hey,this is cool once in while,and im only reminding you with this buzz that keeping it up here for a long time,will kill me"
look at the redline buzzer like this,its sayin "hey,this is cool once in while,and im only reminding you with this buzz that keeping it up here for a long time,will kill me"
04-18-03, 05:25 PM
#5
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On a non-modified motor, that buzzer is there for a reason. To alert you of low oil level, over-rev, and coolant level.
If you are consistently hitting the buzzer, you need to revise your driving style as you are out of the useable power range when driving a stock motor anyway.
If the motor and flywheel have been modified, the buzzer may be removed or (as I prefer) replaced with a lower volume buzzer and warning light.
If you are consistently hitting the buzzer, you need to revise your driving style as you are out of the useable power range when driving a stock motor anyway.
If the motor and flywheel have been modified, the buzzer may be removed or (as I prefer) replaced with a lower volume buzzer and warning light.
04-18-03, 05:53 PM
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
I have not done a write up, but it is very simple. Let me see off the top of my head...
Just run down to your local radio shack and buy a 4.7K 1/4 ohm resister, a 12 Volt buzzer (I like the ones that are around 4kHz and at least 75dB so you can hear it at WOT) and a superbrite LED. Most buzzers will have a voltage range of around 3 Volts to 16 volts.
Remove the cluster, near the bottom middle soldered onto the back circuit board with 4 pins, you will find the factory buzzer (its a faded white thing with what looks like a small slotted grill on the top of it). The buzzer is pretty hard to miss. Unsolder it. Once it is removed, you'll see the 4 holes in the PC board and 2 of them will have traces going to them. They might even be marked, as it was about 6 months ago when I soldered the wires in for my new buzzer and I am going off of what I remember.
Solder in some wire into each one. Run the positive to the positive side of your new buzzer and one leg of the 4.7kHz resistor. The positive hole is the one with the trace that runs to a factory resistor and capacitor on the PCB.
The negative one (the one that trace connects with a trace to the tach) solder on to the negative of the new buzzer and the negative lead of the LED.
Join the one end of the 4.7K resister (that one side you didn't connect before) to the positive lead of the LED.
Then when you hit redline, you'll get a lower volume Buzzer, and the LED will light up nice and bright.
I am gonna try some square LEDs mounted onto the redline mark of the factory tach next week and see if that will look cool. The idea is that is should light up nice and bright, just inside your vision when ever you hit redline.
Just run down to your local radio shack and buy a 4.7K 1/4 ohm resister, a 12 Volt buzzer (I like the ones that are around 4kHz and at least 75dB so you can hear it at WOT) and a superbrite LED. Most buzzers will have a voltage range of around 3 Volts to 16 volts.
Remove the cluster, near the bottom middle soldered onto the back circuit board with 4 pins, you will find the factory buzzer (its a faded white thing with what looks like a small slotted grill on the top of it). The buzzer is pretty hard to miss. Unsolder it. Once it is removed, you'll see the 4 holes in the PC board and 2 of them will have traces going to them. They might even be marked, as it was about 6 months ago when I soldered the wires in for my new buzzer and I am going off of what I remember.
Solder in some wire into each one. Run the positive to the positive side of your new buzzer and one leg of the 4.7kHz resistor. The positive hole is the one with the trace that runs to a factory resistor and capacitor on the PCB.
The negative one (the one that trace connects with a trace to the tach) solder on to the negative of the new buzzer and the negative lead of the LED.
Join the one end of the 4.7K resister (that one side you didn't connect before) to the positive lead of the LED.
Then when you hit redline, you'll get a lower volume Buzzer, and the LED will light up nice and bright.
I am gonna try some square LEDs mounted onto the redline mark of the factory tach next week and see if that will look cool. The idea is that is should light up nice and bright, just inside your vision when ever you hit redline.
Last edited by Icemark; 04-18-03 at 05:57 PM.
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04-18-03, 05:59 PM
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by Rxmfn7
Cool thanks
Im an electronics student , so I have resistors and LEDs laying around out the wazoo... 
Cool thanks
Im an electronics student , so I have resistors and LEDs laying around out the wazoo...
Good luck. PM or email me if you get stuck.
04-18-03, 06:14 PM
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no guys, the HORN BEEPS, like the horn that is beeped with the button on the steering wheel. there is no buzzer, its the HORN that you can hear from 10 blocks away, that horn.
04-18-03, 06:18 PM
#13
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Originally posted by steve's dog
no guys, the HORN BEEPS, like the horn that is beeped with the button on the steering wheel. there is no buzzer, its the HORN that you can hear from 10 blocks away, that horn.
no guys, the HORN BEEPS, like the horn that is beeped with the button on the steering wheel. there is no buzzer, its the HORN that you can hear from 10 blocks away, that horn.
If that is the case then someone has rewired your car
04-19-03, 07:59 PM
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i tried taking the fuse out, but its also the fuse to the break lights, so i cant do that, god damn........anyone have suggestions???? PLEASE!
04-19-03, 08:16 PM
#21
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You'll need to pull the cluster out and see where they attached a wire to the factory buzzer and ran it to the CPU in the drivers kick panel.
I thought we covered this when we told you that was not factory??? Not factory means you'll have to rip the car apart and find the non-factory wire and return it back to stock.
I thought we covered this when we told you that was not factory??? Not factory means you'll have to rip the car apart and find the non-factory wire and return it back to stock.
04-20-03, 01:21 PM
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
not that I know of. I like that thing. People ask me if something is wrong I am like "no".
not that I know of. I like that thing. People ask me if something is wrong I am like "no".
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