how much ya think pro body work on that would cost ? the pics show all the rust spots. i have someone to shoot it for me.

 

the best thing to do it to just go get an estimate from a body shop. Did you buy it, or do you plan to?

 

That is a steal of a deal i suggest u buy that ASAP before it slips away...

 

About the fuel PULSATION damper (since it dampens the PULSES in the pressure in your fuel rail) Read this, it should give you a good idea of why or why not to eliminate it.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html

BTW, if you're new into rotaries, fc3spro.com has a ton of useful information.

 

Oh, and yea I'd buy it, seems like a sweet deal. Wouldn't hurt to do a compression test when it's warm tho

 

I'm def. getting it so...i'll go get a estimate. I'm not gonna eliminate the "fuel whatever yada yada" haha i'll replace it properly. how do i test compression and is the fuel pulsation damper hard to put on ? thanks

 

To get to the fuel pulsation dampener youll need to remove the top intakes its underneath.

To clear up any confusion, by top intakes i mean the air filter, intake tube, maf, throttle body,dynamic chamber , and upper intake manifold.

While you do this you also have the option to replace all your fuel lines and/or vacuum hoses because you can now get to all of them.



How are the brake rotors on your car ? I have a full set of 2 front/2 rear brand new 4 Lug brake rotors from Carquest I'll sell you at a cheap price if it needs them. I changed to 5 lug so I ended up buying them for nothing.

 

The rotors are OK but I may just replace them while i'm at it. PM me w/ a price for them. Also, not to be a "wuss" or whatever but, this fuel pulsation thing sounds like a pretty big pain in the ***. Being someone that's never even touched a rotary engine until last week, I'm not sure what i'm getting myself into now...I guess they million dollar question is...How can I tell if I need to replace the fuel pulsation damper ?....and how does it go bad ?...looks like a bolt w/ a rubber head to me....Sorry or all the newb ?'s but I'm not gonna get involved in some big project that I thought was smaller to begin with. I have no clue what a dynamic chamber is and i'm not liking that I have to take of the intake mani to change a bolt....this sucks, haha. And i have a feeling that if i told a mechanic i needed it done he'd say "fuel pulse what ? " which doesn't help me being a newb. I may just stick to pistons...:0/

 

It might not even be bad if you tap on the front of it (clear yellowish piece looks like a bubble sticking out ) and hear a screw inside bouncing around then it is bad, they have a rubber diaphram so they break, and the screw on the outside on the inside of the plastic will come out then its only a matter of time until fuel starts to leak out. If you check and there is nothing bouncing around inside chances are its ok. My car with only 115,000 miles (parts car) had a bad one with the screw bouncing around in it, but my car I am driving now had 146,000 and its fine.

 

Man if i were you I would just do a banjo bolt (do some research on it first). It won't leak if you do that, and i havent heard of any poor consequenses from it. It MAY not need to be replaced, but be warned that some FCs went up in flames a matter of months after rolling off the showroom floor, while some are still going with the original. Its really up to you, man.

 

Ive always thought maybe I should do this , I just didnt because I'd rather use the stock part and mine wasnt bad so I think it should be ok.

Was yours bad when you put in the banjo bolt ? I think the pd was put on there for a reason so shouldnt we keep it there ? There has to be some negative effect to taking it out since it wont be there

 

I don't want the car to start on fire obviously, but I also don't want a hell hole project on my hands...how tough would replacing that part be for a Newb...I'm ok with normal engines, the rotary has me stumped though...Like I said, i might just call the whole thing off now....

 

Man i dont even know, because Landers went ahead and put the banjo bolt on mine when he rebuilt my engine.

Kevin Landers, an amazing and very well-known rotary engine builder, says that there is absolutely nothing wrong with it, and he knows his ****. So while it would make sense that it is in fact there for a reason, I look at it this way: no one i know of has come up with a really good reason to have one other than "it is there for a reason" while countless cars have gone up in flames because of it. I'll take my chances


Besides, maybe its like your appendix, nobody really knows what its for, and you work just fine without it, but it can hurt you real bad if it wants to.

 

NO dude, dont ***** out on us! Just do what you are doing now-learn all you can about the car, and then have fun with it!


It is true that these cars seem to require more maintenance than most, but if you take care of it, it wont give you too many problems, and it is a blast to drive.

 

This job wont even take any more than 1-2 hours if you are decent with tools and make sure you put everything the same as before you took it apart example: removing vacuum lines.

 

Youre getting a better deal than I did.

I bought this piece of **** for 800-


Weight reduction by: Fe02

 

Well, i'll look into the fuel dampener thing. I just asked my buddy tonight that has a FC if he had to change his and he did so i'm def looking into it. Yea, i'll stick w/ it & learn some more about the 13b. It's too good of a deal to pass up. I think i feel confident that i can do the fuel thingamajig myself. That cars not a piece of ****, other than the rockers it's got better paint than mine... Do I HAVE to replace the waterpump right now, is it that reccomended ? engine has 95,000 or so w/ one owner who maintained it well.

 

Only if it's making excissive noise or leaking fluid.

Don't be discouraged about the maintence the car needs, its a 20yr old sports car and you found youself a real sweetheart.

I like to have this mindset, The Mazda Rx7: making excellent mechanics out of ordnary men.

 

yea, thats real true man hha. thanks for the help, i'm sure i'll need more....

 

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, CHECK THE COMPRESSION!

I bought my FC for 950, because it seemed to run well and had a nice, rust-free body.
Two weeks later, I'm having my engine rebuilt.

 

Nice!

Hope you dont mind i used your quote and my car to make a new motivational poster! I give all credit to Hecubus84!

 

Haha, thats awesome. I think I have a new wallpaper now....

 

Guess i need to learn how to test the compression then....some people aren't so keen on potential buyers fiddling w/ the engine before they buy something....but i'll ask.

 

Well he should only have a problem with it if he's trying to sell you an engine thats about to blow.

 

i wouldnt let anyone but a licensed ase certified technician touch my car if i were selling it.