I just changed my hoses for the oil cooler and also removed the oil cooler for clean-up. At the bottom of the inlet/outlet there is a plug and inside a thermostat, I found two O-rings stuck in the housing next to the thermostat, the same size as the front cover O-ring. Checking the front cover, the O-ring was still there!!? Most be leftover from earlier rebuild.!!?? Anyhow, I like to check the function of the thermostat; can anyone give me the temperature range for this to open? Also, is this thermostat needed for proper flow or should I remove it, as Texas is ether hot or bloody hot.

 

Place the bypass valve in oil and heat slowly.
Check the protrusion of the valve at 65C/149F
Protrusion: 5mm (0.2") min

 

Our oil cooler's flange had been split so we had it repaired and didn't bother with the thermostat since as you noted in Texas it's hot and fraken hot. I think we had one frost this winter.

 

It is most likely safer to use hot water rather than heat oil to check the valve. You will just have to make sure to blow out the water with compressed air and dry it afterwards.

 

Thanks for info. How about leaving the thermostat out, any “side effect” ?

 

sighs.. once again... take it out and the cooler is in full bypass.... the oil will avoid the long way around through the cooling fins and just shortcut straight from inlet to outlet


you need to BLOCK the bypass passage.. to do this you displace the pellet forwards with washers til the body of the pellet permanently sits blocking the bypass passage

its not rocket science to get your head around.. but why is it so many people still spout to pull it out thinking its some magic mod that makes the oil cooler better when in fact they have crippled there oil cooling ability

 

Sorry for testing your patience, I suspected that this is the case but I don’t have cooler or a drawing of the same in my possession at the moment. As soon as I get to it, I will make a “pellet” to keep the bypass closed for max. cooling. Thanks for your input.