87-7 won't start no fuel
#1
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87-7 won't start no fuel
my 86-7(231,000m) will not start. I drove it into the garage last winter, drained the gas, then...... covered it. This summer I added new gas, (about 1 gal), charged the battery, then tried to start her up.. Cranks good, all the idiot lights work, good spark, no fuel at filter. fuel pump does not run (put my ear to the filler pipe). I have the full service manual... where do I look first?
#3
you might want to add a little more gas to it to. remember the bottom of the tank normally has a little trash in it so it might need a little more gas to help clear the trash off the filter. Also i would agree with my5ababy with tryin to jump the fuel pump to primer it
#4
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Originally Posted by gus5891
you might want to add a little more gas to it to. remember the bottom of the tank normally has a little trash in it so it might need a little more gas to help clear the trash off the filter. Also i would agree with my5ababy with tryin to jump the fuel pump to primer it
#5
i was just suggesting if it was ran completely out of gas that you would need to primer it. i had to do that to mine when i pulled the motor out just to save a little time
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First start by checking your getting power to the pump with the jumper in the eng bay connected and the key on. if you do then try cleaning the earth on top of the fuel tank. If this dosnt work then try the below to check if the pump actually works.
Second. Un plug the fuel pump and try jumping the pump directly with power from the battery ( just take the battery to the boot ) - if this dosnt work or your a bit sketchy about this then remove the pump and jump the terminals with the pump out of the car.
Of course if jumping the pump directly from the bat dosnt work then your pump has died.
If it dosnt then you need to check the connections from the pump to the pump cover. Usually its just the earth.
Second. Un plug the fuel pump and try jumping the pump directly with power from the battery ( just take the battery to the boot ) - if this dosnt work or your a bit sketchy about this then remove the pump and jump the terminals with the pump out of the car.
Of course if jumping the pump directly from the bat dosnt work then your pump has died.
If it dosnt then you need to check the connections from the pump to the pump cover. Usually its just the earth.
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I had to take my ing. switch apart and clean the contact points in a 87 to get the fuel pump to turn on. It was an N/A if that makes a diffrence, ended up wasting $130 on a new pump before I found that out.
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update, I tried to locate the "check Connector", car seems to have 3 or more of them. the drawings in the manual are so small.....(damn if I can see the correct one) there are two just behind the air filter box, one green(3 terminals) and one white(2 terminals). would it have killed them to label them?.. I digress. anyway it looks like I have all the correct voltages at the pump connector in the back, trunk, boot.....) with key on. working on pulling the pump now JUST AS SOON AS I BREAK ALL THE RUSTED SCREWS loose holding the assembly on the tank.
Last edited by my-87-7; 11-27-06 at 02:16 PM.
#10
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It should be a YELLOW, two socket connector near the right front strut tower. It usually has a piece of black shrink tubing surrounding it.
The wire that feeds the pump is a large BLUE wire on the chassis side of the fuel pump plug and turns into a Black/White wire on the pump side of that plug.
With the key to ON, no voltage should be on the BLUE wire. There will be voltage on a smaller wire in that connector but that is NOT fuel pump power.
The pump does NOT run with the key just to ON.
The fuel pump will run with the key to ON AND the jumper in the fuel pump check connector.
The fuel pump will run with the KEY HELD to Start. I said HELD to Start
The fuel pump will run if the engine actually starts and key to ON.
A series 4 pump will run with the key to ON AND you move the vane in the afm aft just a half inch or more. No jumper required for this. Just key to ON.
Remember, the fuel pump power wire is pure BLUE that transistions to black/white. It's gnd wire is pure Black.
The wire that feeds the pump is a large BLUE wire on the chassis side of the fuel pump plug and turns into a Black/White wire on the pump side of that plug.
With the key to ON, no voltage should be on the BLUE wire. There will be voltage on a smaller wire in that connector but that is NOT fuel pump power.
The pump does NOT run with the key just to ON.
The fuel pump will run with the key to ON AND the jumper in the fuel pump check connector.
The fuel pump will run with the KEY HELD to Start. I said HELD to Start
The fuel pump will run if the engine actually starts and key to ON.
A series 4 pump will run with the key to ON AND you move the vane in the afm aft just a half inch or more. No jumper required for this. Just key to ON.
Remember, the fuel pump power wire is pure BLUE that transistions to black/white. It's gnd wire is pure Black.
#11
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I am not so sure that draining the fuel of of a car to place it in storage is such a great idea. I have heard of several problems like this and it is usually found that the fuel pump has corroded and seized from condensation. Fuel pumps use the fuel in the tank as a lubricant and a coolant.
I would certainly verify that the fuel pump is receiving power before replacing it. Lifting the carpet on the drivers-rear strut tower will uncover the plug for the fuel pump. You can apply battery power there and eliminate mouse damage to the wiring harness as a possibility.
I would certainly verify that the fuel pump is receiving power before replacing it. Lifting the carpet on the drivers-rear strut tower will uncover the plug for the fuel pump. You can apply battery power there and eliminate mouse damage to the wiring harness as a possibility.
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update, after grinding off the stuck screws on the pump cover, pulled the fuel pump out. It is seized. 12v across the terminals.... does not run. after I figure out how to get the remaining screws out of the tank.. I'll pick up a new pump at autozone.
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