86 TII swap won't start, but really wants to.
03-12-10, 07:18 PM
#179
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Yeah, I figure the absolute guaranteed way to make sure I'm not getting ANY fuel is to make absolutely sure that the fuel pump wont work. I'll try and deflood the hell out of it. Tomorrow shouldn't be raining....
03-12-10, 07:37 PM
#180
If you check the coils as I linked to you could thereafter disconnect the two wire white plugs leading to both coils and with the additional CAS connected, with the key to "on," spin the CAS wheel and you should hear the injectors clicking. With the coils disconnected the spark plugs won't fire and possibly drown out the injector clicking. This test requires the EGI INJ fuse to be positioned properly in the engine fuse box and you don't have to worry about either of these tests dumping fuel into the engine because the key is just set to "on" and the yellow fuel check connector in the engine bay "is not jumpered." If it were jumpered then the fuel pump runs when the key is set to "on" otherwise it won't run unless the engine is up and running of course. That would be nice!
03-15-10, 06:56 PM
#181
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Ok! Dear God, I'm home and finally had time to work on my little punk. So, I tested the coil packs and didn't see any spark coming from T2. So called up Gringo Grande and he came over with one. BUT, when I took my old one off, I found something that wasn't connected (at least not after I pulled the pack up, which mean it could have been barely connected). It looks like a ground. So I put Gringo's pack on and no spark to either. I put my old pack back on and no spark! But both L1 & L2 are still sparking. I tried to ground the thing I found, but don't know where it originally went. After attempting to ground it, still now spark on my original pack. Any idea if this is a ground and if so, where's a good place to put it? THANKS!
03-15-10, 07:39 PM
#184
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03-15-10, 07:50 PM
#185
I presume it's attached to a B/Y wire? If so it needs to be bolted to the fender and there should be a place nearby that already exists for it.
EDIT: There's a good chance you would blow one of the EGI fuses w/o it so I would double check the fuse that has the B/Y wire coming out of it in your engine bay fuse box. Also, when you switched out your trailing for Gringo's did you bolt it into place first before attempting to use it?
EDIT: There's a good chance you would blow one of the EGI fuses w/o it so I would double check the fuse that has the B/Y wire coming out of it in your engine bay fuse box. Also, when you switched out your trailing for Gringo's did you bolt it into place first before attempting to use it?
03-15-10, 07:57 PM
#186
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03-15-10, 08:51 PM
#187
That's how it is grounded. It won't operate otherwise.
So when your T coil was connected you got spark out of T1 but not T2 and when the replacement was used neither T1 or T2 had spark. Is this correct?
The trailing coil receives two B/Y wires. Do they both have battery voltage with the key to on? Also check back at the ECU and with the key to on and read pins 1X,1U and 1M and compare to the FSM numbers for 1X should be zero, 1U should be approximately 4.4 volts and 1M should be less than 2 volts and when measuring pin 1M make sure the plug is removed and if it reads really high then it needs to be replaced.
So when your T coil was connected you got spark out of T1 but not T2 and when the replacement was used neither T1 or T2 had spark. Is this correct?
The trailing coil receives two B/Y wires. Do they both have battery voltage with the key to on? Also check back at the ECU and with the key to on and read pins 1X,1U and 1M and compare to the FSM numbers for 1X should be zero, 1U should be approximately 4.4 volts and 1M should be less than 2 volts and when measuring pin 1M make sure the plug is removed and if it reads really high then it needs to be replaced.
03-15-10, 09:03 PM
#188
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....Oh. Well that would explain it. When I was unbolting it, the T2 bolt was already missing. I wonder if T2 hasn't been grounded this whole time. Thanks satch 
03-15-10, 09:29 PM
#189
The T coil bolts to the fender via two brackets. One bracket connects to the fender on top and the other bracket is below the coil. The bottom bracket has two bolts connecting it to the coil and one bolt below connecting it to the fender wheel well, which is where the condenser is connected using the same bolt.
03-16-10, 03:58 PM
#190
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Okay so, I bolted down my original trailing coil pack and tried to ground the condenser. (Though I'll try and move it where you said satch and see if thats does anything, you can ignore the arrows in pic 1). I still don't think T2 is getting spark. (Though is day and a bright Florida evening, so I'll try again tonight.) I'm testing the spark with my spare CAS, with the wire unplugged from the spark plugs and the key ON. (Though I usually only get one chance to spark, right after I turn the key ON, after that I have to turn the key off then on again.)
While I was looking around I found loose condenser just about underneath the spark plugs. What does it go to? Where does it go?
And a few other wires that I thought were odd.
Still not starting (given).
EDIT: I just hooked up the one Gringo gave me (with the resistor under the bolted part of the coil against the fender) and I'm not getting spark to T1 or 2 bit I am to L1 (didn't try L2). Though its not a guaranteed working part.
While I was looking around I found loose condenser just about underneath the spark plugs. What does it go to? Where does it go?
And a few other wires that I thought were odd.
Still not starting (given).
EDIT: I just hooked up the one Gringo gave me (with the resistor under the bolted part of the coil against the fender) and I'm not getting spark to T1 or 2 bit I am to L1 (didn't try L2). Though its not a guaranteed working part.
03-16-10, 04:26 PM
#191
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For whatever it means.........as long as the lead coil works, there should be no problem starting a RX-7. Waste of effort on your part right now trying to make the trail work. Not required for running/driving the car.
03-16-10, 08:50 PM
#195
Arrow points to the oil level sensor. There should only be one plug which properly mates to that sensor. The plug it does mate to when grounded and key to on would cause the low oil level buzzer and dash warning light to both come on if you needed to verify the proper plug.
03-17-10, 04:43 PM
#197
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But where is the mate for plug #1 in my last picture? And #2 goes to something behind the oil level sensor (but it IS connected already). I guess that could be why that super annoying buzzer keeps going off inside. I though it was the low coolant buzzer. What about #3??
03-17-10, 04:56 PM
#198
But where is the mate for plug #1 in my last picture? And #2 goes to something behind the oil level sensor (but it IS connected already). I guess that could be why that super annoying buzzer keeps going off inside. I though it was the low coolant buzzer. What about #3??
03-17-10, 05:25 PM
#199
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I'm slow. What is 3 supposed to be pointing to?? The drain plug? The pan?
The subzero sensor/switch should have a black/red wire connected to it. Probably does since it's connected up.
NOne of those items can cause a engine to not start or trail coils to not work.
The subzero sensor/switch should have a black/red wire connected to it. Probably does since it's connected up.
NOne of those items can cause a engine to not start or trail coils to not work.