garlickid

Please forgive previous post..but nothing showed up that I typed


First of all, I want to thank those responsible for this site existing. Next, thanks to all the people who post here..
Three days ago, I bought an '86 non-turbo. The guy I bought it from had been storing it for a few years, starting it occasionally to "keep the battery up".
Anyway, he said only problem was it would want to stall at stops and you might have to shift to neutral and feather the gas a bit.
Well, he started it and it ran for about 30 seconds before cutting off. Could not start it again. After days of trying to start it..no way, finally towed to my house.
No go here either. THEN..I grew a bit of a brain. Started researching , someone told me about this site. It's a wonder my ignorance didn't kill the starter first though.
I spent hours here reading, searching, etc. Went through the "unflooding procedures" and ALMOST got a start! Dumped old gas, changed oil/filter, plugs. Then HEY, it started! Smoked like hell though, I fumigated the neighborhood.
I had to rev it up to 3000 to keep it running or it would cut off. FInally, the smoke cleared. I let it sit awhile and tried it again. No smoke, but still had to rev to keep it running.
I was told it may be clogged catalytic converter, so took the other one off and will install the new one in the morning.
Whew, sorry this is so long, but I know you guys need details to be able to help
Oil pressure when running was 70 or so on the gauge. Also, when I had the lead plug out to pump out the flood, there were no gaps or skips in the rhythm. So I hope....I really hope the engine/seals are ok.

If this catalytic converter isn't the fix for it, what should be my next step

Busted-7

It sounds like you could have a big vacuum leak. Check all of the rubber vac lines for any holes or any disconnected lines. Also, change the fuel filter if you haven't already done so. Also, what kind of plugs did you put in when you replaced them? Rotaries are really picky about the plugs (wrong plugs probably wouldn't cause your problem, but will hurt performance). Also, if you plan to keep the car and have any fun, swap the auto tranny for a manual one.

garlickid

I used NGK plugs, BUR7EQ lead and BUR9EQ trailing. I will get a fuel filter tomorrow and try to find out if It's a vacuum line.
* wish it was a manual too.*
But I'm gonna be happy just to get it on the road for now

Thanks!

rx7b13

go to this store www.rx7.com if you need to replace anything for your engine they will have it. if you need more info on good sites just ask

garlickid

Ok, well I changed the fuel filter. Also, I made ECU tester (the LED kit). I get no error codes. TO verify it was working, I disconnected the Boost sensor. It flashed the right code for that sensor.
The car will start now easily. But there is still a problem. I had to adjust the idle up to about 1400 rpm's to smooth it out. At regular idle, I get a lot of vibration and usually stalls out. After a few minutes, the rpms increase and decrease..sort of a "lurching", bouncing from 1300 to 1500.
If I put in reverse, the whole car shakes and will stall out. If you work the trottle, it sounds fine.
I disconnected and reconnected vacuum hoses while running and they made little difference that I could tell.

I wonder if it's a leaking injector or maybe it is a vacuum leak I can't find. Maybe manifold gasket?
What do you guys think it may be? I've paid more for parts so far than the car
But, it dosen't smoke, oil looks good and compression seems fine.

dsmrx7

After a few minutes, the rpms increase and decrease..sort of a "lurching", bouncing from 1300 to 1500.

Mine does that also..I figured it must've happened after I removed the emissions. It only happens when it wants to.

WAYNE88N/A

Check timing yet? I know it's gonna be a bitch if you can't get her to idle smoothly at around 750, but you could try to tweak the timing a bit at the CAS (after marking the initial spot at the CAS body) to see if she smoothes out a little down low...

Injectors being semi-clogged would make a lot sense too, since she's been sitting for long periods. You could try swapping the secondaries into the primaries' position (if they're the same- if stock they are) if you feel really adventurous...This would entail removing the Upper Intake Manifold and replacing gaskets & such, so do this only as a last resort...

garlickid

I thought about timing, I've done it on piston engines. Honestly, I did'nt even know you could set timing on this (I couldn't find the distributer )
So, I'll see if I can find how to in the manual I downloaded. Injecters too..always had carbs.
Oh well, I'm learning as fast as I can go!
The primaries, I guessing are the ones top of engine, starboard side near intake. Secondaries must be under the upper intake manifold? I know I'm showing my ignorance, but I will look it up.
And I'm sure they are stock ..probably never cleaned. Only thing repaced prior to me were: Tires, Oil, plugs, air filter and well..gas. Far as I can tell.

WAYNE88N/A

Primaries are down under everything- you can't really see them unless you know where to look with a flashlight. Secondaries are the ones you CAN see, and only operate under load & above 3500 rpm or so...

That was a good move, to make your code checker right off the bat- now you'll know what's NOT bad...

You may want to dig into the UIM all the way down to the primaries after all, because there may be a lot of things that need replacing at this point (vac lines, gaskets, injectors (or just get 'em cleaned), injector o-rings and grommets, maybe even the fuel lines (rubber portions). You seem to be able to pick up on things fairly quickly, so it shouldn't be too much trouble for ya...

garlickid

Tomorrow, I'll get my gaskets, o-rings, etc. and go exploring
I have to thank you for responding so fast, been a big help!

WAYNE88N/A

Make sure you know what you're getting into- read into it by searching on the topic

therotaryrocket

garlickid, chuck? this is zach, thats cool your into it alot, tomorow im changing my brake master cylinder and lower radiator hose on my turbo II so I won't be at work. anyways, where did you find the information to make a code checker? I could only find the s5 models code checker. good luck, let me know if you need some help.

jhammons01

Wow^^^ You can use the forum to call in sick!!! I wonder......I'm gonna tell my boss that I am sick via RX7club!!!

jhammons01

Garlickid, Try this link

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/faq-idle-problems-334730/

Your idle problems will be cured if you follow this advice. Your seals are fine, your motor is OK it just needs to be tuned up. If it has been sitting for a few years there are a lot of dry cracked rubber hoses and gasket that need to be reconditioned.....thats all.

OBTW, Clyde, I'm not coming in to work today.

JamesBong

The surging idle is usually a vac leak, or TPS adjustment. Since it's an 86, I'll bet all of the vacuum lines are brittle. Buy 20ft of silicon hose, and replace ALL of the vacuum lines. Don't forget the line that runs from the back of the UIM to the transmission. Also check the vac lines running to the brake booster. The one above the exhaust tends to be cracked and leaking.

If you made your code checker with two 12v LED's, you can use it to check your TPS setup as specified in the FSM. Most people here recommend you set it to 1kΩ. Just be sure your car is warmed up at the time.

Good luck.

garlickid

I've checked all the vac lines I can get to without removing anything (had to order the gaskets,etc). I set the TPS with LED and made sure with ohmeter. Got the idle down to 800 to check the timing, damn hard to do to though. The engine was shaking itself out of the car.
SO, heres another thing. I noticed when I'm sitting in the car, letting it warm up. The lights dim, or go off intermittingly. Clock, dash, radio.. Weird.
ALSO, when I checked the timing, I connected the timing light to the battery and L1 wire, near coil. No strobe. L2 has strobe, along with T1 and T2. BUT... if I switch L1 and L2 wires(on plugs only not coils) L1 will strobe and L2 will not.
Plugs are 4 days old.
If this was a piston engine I would bet on a cylinder not firing. Could this be my entire problem?
I have'nt checked the voltages or anything for coils yet, I will tomorrow. I bought a FSM..got tired of running back and forth to the computer to the downloaded one
What do you guys think?

garlickid

sorry for double post

Busted-7

If the lights are dimming and whatnot, you could be having some issues with the power supply. My car did something similar when my positive battery cable got chewed up by the power steering pulley and was grounding out on the body. Anyway, check all you wiring and maybe read the threads in the archive about grounding.

JamesBong

If you're not getting any flash on L1, you might not be getting any spark either. As Busted-7 said, check your grounding to help with the lights. These cars tend to have grounding issues as they get older. You can get grounding kits cheap on Ebay that'll help. A quick way to check your grounding would be to check the resistance between the negative terminal of the battery, and any point on the engine. Optimally, it should be 0Ω.

AaronW5683

i also have an an 86 nt with damn near the same problems with the idle and occasionally electric components... could it all be as simple as a bad ground?

JamesBong

I've gone through a number of electrical problems on my '87. If the problem is intermittant, Check and clean all of the suspeceted connectors with something like bullfrog. Any electrical cleaner that disolves corrosion and protects would be good. Also, as I said before, check your resistance between your negative battery terminal and chassis and engine. If you have a large resistance, nothing's going to work quite right, and a ground kit would be a good solution.