Nah not that one. I'm talking about the one actually bolted to top of the block underneath the upper intake. The line runs from it to a vacuum selanoid.

 

Probably the EGR valve. Who knows. Seems theres a book online with pictures that might be of some help to some of us on this site. You know. The THINGY in the FAQ near the stuff close to the thingamajig 'round the corner of the clacker.

 

haha i get the hint........but just saying im tired of searching for days and ill get is **** on turbII. im n/a buuuuud

 

EGR valve if it's bolted to the intermediate housing on top of the engine. INtermediate housing is the middle housing. You can pull it off (EGR) and install a blockoff plate in its place, or just pull it off (EGR) and get a flat piece of metal and cut it to the shape of the EGR valves mating surface and then install that piece of flat metal b/t the EGR and the housing. That way the EGR is still there but there won't be any leakage thru the EGR to mess up the idle. Use gasket paper on each side of the flat metal plate.

By flat metal plate I mean just a piece of metal of at least .020 thickness. Heck, even a piece of thick gasket paper with no holes in it other than the two stud holes would do the job if you install it b/t the EGR and housiing.

 

UPDATE!! everything put back together and started right up. but still runs like crap. idles at 750. i got it warmed up , unplugged the trailing coils and the car continued to run. alternator was checked and its good and i guess i fixed it a lil cuz my voltometer reads 14 now. cool beans but my car still runs like crap. error codes were thrown this time also one lamp lite,1 long light..repeat. the other lame lite, 2 shorts..repeat. O2 sensor?

 

Bump

 

yes the egr duh, knew that. i know how to block it off. my question is what do i do with the rest of the line? just cap it off?

 

The single vacuum line that goes to it....................plug it.

 

thanks HAILER2

UPDATE!! everything put back together and started right up. but still runs like crap. idles at 750. i got it warmed up , unplugged the trailing coils and the car continued to run. alternator was checked and its good and i guess i fixed it a lil cuz my voltometer reads 14 now. cool beans but my car still runs like crap. error codes were thrown this time also one lamp lite,1 long light..repeat. the other lame lite, 2 shorts..repeat. O2 sensor?

 

Two short flashes would be the error code for the AFM. Pins 2E, 2J are related to the AFM. The FSM explains how to test the AFM when the plug is removed from the unit (do not try to remove the screws to unplug the unit or it wil be damaged).
Fuel and Emissions section is where the relevant info is to be found (page 54)

O2 sensor does not affect idle but comes into play when cruising.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ectors+hailers post#7

 

Air Flow Meter....MAF? mass air flow sensor? I pulled the plug on it while it was running and it died. will not start without it. dont know if it helps but my car back fires bad when deccelerating. is it possible i have a blown rotor? oil level is good and clean. coolant level as well.

 

It's referred to as an AFM on the RX7. Disconnecting the plug will cause the car to stall and die and is completely normal. As stated earlier, the FSM tells you how to check it in a proper manner(section 4A-page 54). Backfiring on deceleration is "usually" caused by a TPS in need of adjustment or the Anti Afterburn Valve is clogged or not present.

 

ok.....checking the timing again. i put the pin on the yellow mark(leading) poped the top of the CAS....and it has the diamend deal right and on point has a dot on it. where i believe where it is suppost to be, it means im 180 degrees out of timing. how can i trun/ remove the CAS to turn it 180??? if im correct. the FSM manual does not show this on the timing

 

UPDATE. pulled out the CAS and turned 180. nothing. car does the same exact ****. and when i said back fire i meant its not how it should ever be. i normally shoot flames but im barely revving it and blop blap blop blapppp blap blap. horrible. AFM is fine. everything ive tested has had nothing wrong with it. BLown Rotor????????????????????????????

 

Lets say the AFM tested out properly according to spec as stated in the FSM. Doesn't mean the AFM signals are being read properly by the ECU though. Going through the ECU pins and comparing the voltage readings versus those stated in the FSM would probably help narrow down the problem if it isn't related to an engine failure such as a blown rotor.

 

where in the fsm does it show how to read the ecu pins? and isnt symptoms of a blown rotor like no compression and want idle?? its not over heating or no oil n coolant mixed. and the compression isnt low. maybe a lil but thats normal for a 27 year old rotary lol

 

Fuel and Emissions section gives a detailed list of the voltage readings for each of the pins.

 

4A-52 after reading i continued down just going through possiblities of somthing else wrong. on this page is the CAS when i pulled mine out and looked at the end to marks by the gear were not aligned......so do i align them?

 

Read the related posts to the CAS from post #99 and on.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/86-tii-swap-wont-start-but-really-wants-887302/page4/