alwaysjdm

iTrader: (1)

i need a new master cylinder for my gxl...when it came to buying i had 2 options, with or with out auto adjusting suspension... the car came with electronic adjusting... even though i dont have that suspension should i still get the master for auto adj... the masters both look the same... does anyone know?

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

I don't remember off the top of my head what the difference is, but always go with the same one that was originally on the car. So for this one, get the one that is for the AAS.

EmbassyBlack

get the on with aas because it has an extra fitting on it compared to the one without aas

but just to make sure try to find a picture of the parts and see for yourself

alwaysjdm

iTrader: (1)

i got pictures of each and the pictures looked exactly the same, so i dont know if they just used the same pictures... but ill just go with the aas one...

lupin

iTrader: (3)

My sensor on my 87 was leaking so i just got the one without aas. I got rid of the aas suspension anyway.

alwaysjdm

iTrader: (1)

does the new one work fine... or do you have braking problems

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

Likely the only difference between the 2 is the sensor. But the correct MC for your car is the one with AAS. Why would you bother buying another one that isn't correct for your car. From my research about a year ago pretty well all MC (turbo/abs/aas/regular) are all within a few dollars of each other. Why not just get the right one?

alwaysjdm

iTrader: (1)

yea i work at a part store but it was a $25 difference... im not concerned about the price it was just the amount of time it would take to get it... i just ordered the right one to be safe

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

I will tell you, from my experience, that it can be done, but its not worth the effort. I just bought a master cylinder that I thought was the right one (no ABS, no AAS), but was actually the wrong one (with AAS). It was not cost or time effective for me to ship it back and wait for a replacement. So I got a small bearing and dropped it into the hole for the sensor (fit perfectly into the smaller hole), and packed in this stuff I had called Qwik-Weld (like JB weld but like a dough, and a 1 hour cure time). I thought all was well and installed it and drove the car. About a half hour down the road I lost brake pressure. I pulled over and the master had fluid dripping out the bottom. Turns out that the brake fluid completely dissolved the qwick-weld. So I drove it back to the garage, and removed everything again. This time I dropped a larger ball bearing in and welded around that, then I kept piling more weld on until it filled it and ground it flush. Not worth it at all, but if thats all you have, then it can be made to work.

E Dogg

iTrader: (1)

i have the same issue, but it appears a spart plug is the right thread, i may just use that to hold the ball in place...