86 GXL Coolant level issues
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
86 GXL Coolant level issues
My coolant level light/buzzer started going off a few weeks ago. I made sure that the coolant was full, which it was. So then I thought maybe its the sensor, which I had a new one laying around so I put that it and it still didn't help. So then I tried pouring coolant straight into the radiator thru the port that the sensor screws into. That stopped it for about an hour or so, only now the light/buzzer goes off seemingly at random, and I'm at a loss as to why.
Recap-coolant level light/buzzer intermittently goes off, new coolant level sensor, coolant level is good, no clue why its going off.
Ideas?
Recap-coolant level light/buzzer intermittently goes off, new coolant level sensor, coolant level is good, no clue why its going off.
Ideas?
Last edited by baughb'smx6; 11-30-09 at 02:18 PM. Reason: accidentally put 88 for the year of vehicle
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
1. Remove the wire connector from the sensor and remove the sensor from the radiator.
2. Reconnect the wire to the sensor and make sure it doesn't come in contact with a ground.
3. Start up engine. Coolant warning light on idiot lights unit should light up.
4. Connect a wire to the bottom of the sensor and apply the wire to a ground. Warning light in car should stay on. If light goes out the sensor is faulty.
2. Reconnect the wire to the sensor and make sure it doesn't come in contact with a ground.
3. Start up engine. Coolant warning light on idiot lights unit should light up.
4. Connect a wire to the bottom of the sensor and apply the wire to a ground. Warning light in car should stay on. If light goes out the sensor is faulty.
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...CAL_SYSTEM.pdf
#6
Manual Rack
iTrader: (50)
I had a coolant line with a pinhole in it. After replacing the line and bleeding the system it was fine for a bit. Then buzzer went off and had to bleed one more time. After the final bleed its been fine for the past 300+ miles.
Positive your bleeding it right? Positive you dont have any leaks? Took me awhile to find a stupid pinhole in one of my lines....
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
I'm pretty sure I've been bleeding it right, and I don't think there are any leaks (no coolant on the ground anywhere, coolant level in overflow is constant). Got any tips on how to bleed it better or finding ridiculous pinholes? Listnening for a air leak is out, as my cars exhaust is stupidly loud.
ps. I think I saw your thread about your pinholed hose when I was looking for what could be my problem.
ps. I think I saw your thread about your pinholed hose when I was looking for what could be my problem.
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#9
Manual Rack
iTrader: (50)
Yeah it was my thermowax hose with the leak. I thought it was a outter coolant seal since the leak looked to be coming from the rear housing/plate but it was where the hose connects to the rear iron.( common for this hose to leak)
It can be leaking and not quite make it to the ground. Mine would make alittle puddle on the engine.(but wouldnt create smoke) At first i assumed no leaks because i never saw coolant on the ground. Feel around on all your coolant hoses, once your hand gets a little wet then you may have found your problem.
For bleeding: remove the bleed screw on the rad, remove thermostat neck cap, fill till it starts to come out the bleeder hole, replace bleeder screw, fill the rest up, start it, once starting to get warm turn on your heat to help get bubbles to rise up and out.
If you keep having problems rent a cooling system pressure tester like ARGHX said. I was about to spend a bunch and tear apart my motor because i thought i lost a outter coolant seal. Thank god i found it right before i went to spend the money.
It can be leaking and not quite make it to the ground. Mine would make alittle puddle on the engine.(but wouldnt create smoke) At first i assumed no leaks because i never saw coolant on the ground. Feel around on all your coolant hoses, once your hand gets a little wet then you may have found your problem.
For bleeding: remove the bleed screw on the rad, remove thermostat neck cap, fill till it starts to come out the bleeder hole, replace bleeder screw, fill the rest up, start it, once starting to get warm turn on your heat to help get bubbles to rise up and out.
If you keep having problems rent a cooling system pressure tester like ARGHX said. I was about to spend a bunch and tear apart my motor because i thought i lost a outter coolant seal. Thank god i found it right before i went to spend the money.
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