SnipeD_RNA

Can any one tell me how hard it is to fit an 8 inch speaker in the rear shock towers? I have seen it done and think its a really good idea just dont know how tight of a fit or if sound is really worth the effort. thanks for any input.

boostin_7

my poineer TS-A2011 8's fit in perfectly, even got the stock grills to fit on top & hide them

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

i have shitty 8"s in my shock towers dropped in perfect.

Rotary Noob

I ground my towers out...so couldnt help you. Lol.

Icemark

True 8" speakers will not fit. 7" speakers will (but there are several manufactures that sell a 7" speaker and call it a 8".

But what is the point? Even if you sealed the air space (which I have done in the past) your maximum air space is only .31 sq ft. Too small for any real bass production.

mightymite

iTrader: (1)

um some 10s use .5 sq ft so 8s in .30 isnt that far off besides the qts rating determens the size of space needed... also with 8s your not going to really gonna get *** shaken deep bass and haven a smaller space means that they will play tighter and handle the power more better

if u want deeper bass u can slow down the sound waves with polyfill this will act like a larger speaker box

the space needed is kinda like choosen larger exhaust for high rpm "large space more boomy sound" or a smaller exhaust for more low end power "in this case tight punchy bass" you cant have both but its depends on what sound your lookn for

RETed

I remember an OLD car audio article on rear fill speaker locations, and putting them in the shock towers of a hatchback is the WORST place to put them.
So I would vote...it's not worth the effort.


-Ted

mightymite

iTrader: (1)

u want your highs upfront as for bass in the rear it works bcs like when u hear a sonic boom or bass you cant really tell where its coming from thats bcs bass is less directional then your highs its all about stagen your audio so it is worth it

RETed

Dude, you really should not be lecturing me about how to properly set-up a car audio system...


-Ted

mightymite

iTrader: (1)

im not im mecp certified thats mobile electronics certified professional if you didnt know what is

the ideal is to have all the sound coming from up front but in most cases u cant put subs upfront so he shouldnt put them in the back?.... and then have no bass at all? and if there isnt anything maken noise or rattling from the bass you wont be able to tell where its coming from anyways


what im tryn to point out is in most cases u have to put bass some where and the only way is to put it in the rear and if done right u cant tell if its behind u or infront of you

and you are right the rear is the worse spot for your speakers "highs" but for your lows its not that critical

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Minor point here: The original poster did not specify woofers. He just said "speaker". To me, this means a standard full range speaker. Which indeed do sound pretty awful in the rear towers.

mightymite

iTrader: (1)

true but i dont know of any 8" full range speakers

i ran a search... and lanzer made a 8" 3 way speaker but they dont make them anymore

RETed

I was into car audio before MECP was even conceived.
I saw MECP born back then.
I saw CAN turn into IASCA.
I've written for Car Stereo Review magazine.
I started the USENET group rec.audio.car.

As for bass being non-directional, IME, I can locate low frequencies down to 40Hz.
Counter to what all the literature says out there...
If I run subwoofers, I cut them off at a max 50hz.
My front stage would be mega expensive - think Dynaudio.
I don't usually mess with rear fill, cause it usually messed up the soundstage and tricky to tune...unless you get a fancy-schmancy signal processor that can handle fine-tuning rear fill.
I quit all this stuff when the RF EPX1 / EPX2 was the **** back in the day.

I realize that car audio has come a long ways since then, but sound reproduction is sound reproduction.
It was called "high fidelity" before you or me were born...


-Ted

jonesfromindia

ya i could understand not having a rear fill if you were doing a SQ system but in a DD you wont even be able to tell if "obscures" your bass freq waves. and the cycle of the freq would most likely not even hit the rear fills.

dynaudio? there is better. not trying to bash or say you dont know anything im sure you know more than me, but there is better than dynaudio.

mightymite

iTrader: (1)

the reason for mecp is to prove that u know your stuff

in most cases u cant put subs upfront so he shouldnt put them in the back?.... and then have no bass at all?

i never siad non-directional i siad bass is less drectional. how ever if you can hear where 40htz is coming from. there is somthing rattling making noise given away the sound or being out of phase. if i was in a empty 10x10x10 concrete room blind folded no matter where the sub is in the room i would have a hard time telln where it is and so would u "as long as it was playn clear bass"

with that said bass is less critical then your highs

*RotaRyHog*

I agree, I started installing thes on FC's about 5 years ago when pioneer came out with these things.

I love how this forum gets way to technical way to fast and completely misses the objective of the original poster.
The pioneer 8 inch 3 way speaker will fit. Is it a true 8 inch?? Who cares! it's larger than a 6.5 and will make slightly more bass on a budget. Perfect for a low Cost upgrade to a daily driver for more Driver enjoyment.


I recommend, for the best bass(not that it will rattle your eye or anything), to seal the inside of the shock towers with Aerosol can Home insulation. You can buy the stuff at any home improvement store. It really makes a big difference.

The very first ime I installed these a few years ago the car was running a low end 10 inch fosgate sub with only about 120 watts if I rember correctly.
After installing the 8's and running them at 75 watts each with the towers all sealed up the bass was much improved over the single 10 inch.
There was more midbass and it blended together well with the sound from the front speakers. Where as having the 10" and 5.25 inch rears left a gap in the sound, no midbass.

Yes they fit. No they won't win you any db drag events or get you in a magazine.
Yes they will put a smile on your face when you're cruising.

Wh1t3 C0m3t

i used 8" kicker comps, sealed the towers and used polyfil, sounds good to me. i'm not crazy about car audio, i'd rather go fast, but i did want something decent. i didnt want the added weight of a box but just wanted to round out the sound. the kickers i got are infinite baffle so they dont even really need a sealed enclosure. i just hooked em up to a sony xplod 500 watt amp, bridged em and called it a day. b4 putting the 8s in the back i upgraded the door and dash speakers to even out the sound everywhere. i like that setup but if u wanna win sound competitions prolly not the way to go. oh well, works for me

boost_its_what_for_dinner

well since the fight is over now about certifications...... how much do these pioneers run? and what can you do about the fronts any suggestions i have factory fronts and fosgate 4inch in the rear just for some sound now but need improvment fast its to much treble and ear piercing at high volume

*RotaRyHog*

the pioneers shouldn't run more than $90.
I get them a little less at wholesale and you should be able to find them online for a great price also.
I would put the 4" speakers that you have in the rear up in the front if they are in good condition and not to old. Aslo make sure you run them with a high pass filter, just a cheap passive is fine, to clean out some low bass from the signal. This will give you better sound quality at higher volumes and save the lives of your speakers.
You should end up with a comfortable, well rounded sound with a simple setup like this being powered by a small amp.

Good luck.

Icemark

No, the purpose of MECP is too sell car stereo and electronics.

As someone that helped create and write the tests used for MECP certification at every level (including masters certification) I can tell you right now, that with a days prep, I could train anyone here (including the 12 year old boy or girl that is dreaming about owning a FC or any other car) to pass MECP certification with a 90 or better score.

MECP means nothing other than to say you understand the basics of car electronics. It does not fill the void of 10+ years of experience actually putting electronics in cars day in and day out, or building car audio systems to compete on every level, that Ted and myself have before we even considered retiring out of car stereo.

MECP means nothing... it is simply a sales tool.

And the fact that some members here are putting oversized speakers in there (and/or even dreaming that pillow stuffing or expanding foam will make up for the lack of air space) and even considering that they sound decent, tells you about either the poor ability of the member to understand audio, or a lack of caring of if the sound is of any quality.

No, the Q of the speaker is just one out of 3 (minimal) specs needed to calculate the minimum and optimal sizes required for the speaker... Ideally you would have all 6 specs to accurately calculate air space requirements.

Healing

Where would you guys suggest the best place to relocate speakers then, Icemark or RETed? Perhaps under the given parameters of something not too extravagant, but looking for decent sound?

I thought about relocating speakers into the storage bins, but then again, I'm an audio nubcaek =P

Icemark

as posted countless times, for a FC coupes the best low freq sound happens with woofers or subwoofers located behind the shock towers or in the spare tire area.

The worst is in the Bins and shock towers. Funny- that is why the Mazda factory mounted 4 inch speakers in the tower (with the speakers at angles, not firing up into the rear window) on the Upgraded factory systems. Why??? Because they were using them for rear fill and not real sound reproduction.

RETed

Funny that you said this...
I saw the first MECP test, and I managed to pass with a 90% without even studying.
Although I haven't seen subsequent versions, I was disappointed with that first version.
So what Icemark says still holds true...

As for the comment about Dynaudio...that's what I would minimally run myself.
Yes, there are a lot of other (more expensive) options out there, and I gave the Dynaudio as an example of what my ears like to hear.

As for what I recommend as a front stage?
The stock mounting locations (in the dash) are crap.
I am an avid believer in kick-panel installs, but the FC clutch dead-pedal gets in the way.
I don't even run any stereo in my FC currently, cause installing a decent front stage is a royal PITA.
I've got THREE Alpine 7618's with a pair of 5957's CD changers sitting in my room doing nothing...all the old-school guys should recognize those numbers.
I even have a 2x75W Adcom collecting dust, cause I'm too lazy to install all of it...

Yes, I've got very spoiled ears.
I realize that the OP (and most of the replies) are not gears to this level of car audio.
Apologizes in advance for going on tilt, as it just touched a nerve when someone starts to lecture me about car audio...
BTW, I got fed up with car audio and jumped right into FC's, so that has to be a good thing, right?


-Ted