8.4lb flywheel.....streetable?
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87 NA build in progress
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8.4lb flywheel.....streetable?
Ok, so just as the title states, is an 8.4 lb flywheel streetable as a daily driver? I've already ordered one in my haste......... I'm also curious to see what it'll do to my MPG? Let the flaming begin!
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My style of driving is to be as smooth as possible. Is it a challenge to take off without the car jerking really hard. I've read a lot of people saying that its almost impossible to be comfortable in the car, is this an accurate statement. My setup should be about 200 rwhp on an NA S4.
#7
Rotary Freak
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My style of driving is to be as smooth as possible. Is it a challenge to take off without the car jerking really hard. I've read a lot of people saying that its almost impossible to be comfortable in the car, is this an accurate statement. My setup should be about 200 rwhp on an NA S4.
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#8
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only thing i can see wrong with it that is going to affect MPG is while on a highway your gonna have to stay on the gas due to the fact that it's going to have alot less inertia (sp) to eep moving on it's own so your speed will decrease quicker once you let off the gas compared to the stock flywheel has more weight wich equals more inertia.
Hope that help and you kinda get the idea.
Im prob going to go with maybe a 9lb or so. I didnt buy this car to be good on gas just to have fun. lol
Good luck
Hope that help and you kinda get the idea.
Im prob going to go with maybe a 9lb or so. I didnt buy this car to be good on gas just to have fun. lol
Good luck
#9
Rotaries confuse me
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only thing i can see wrong with it that is going to affect MPG is while on a highway your gonna have to stay on the gas due to the fact that it's going to have alot less inertia (sp) to eep moving on it's own so your speed will decrease quicker once you let off the gas compared to the stock flywheel has more weight wich equals more inertia.
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I was just thinking like when i drive to work on the highway i let off the gas to kinda coast a little and once i fell im slowing i get back on the gas a lil,
i figured with the lighter flywheel it would slow quicker so like for me i would pretty mych be constantly on the gas pedal which would consume more gas than i do now.
I gues it all depend on you driving.
#12
I have the act prolight (I think 9lbs) on a mostly stock TII it rev's much quicker up and down. I also have the unsprung 6-puck disc, it makes it a little more difficult to take off from a dead stop but you will get use to it. I biggest problem I have is the down rev; it drops so fast that you really need to shift quickly to higher gears or it will fall off boost….that might have more to do with my turbo starting to fail.
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Thanks for the input everyone! I too did not buy this car for its AWESOME MPG but I wanna see if I can get it close to the 30s. Stock on a motor with 186XXX miles I was making 22 MPG.
My goal is 200 or so. I am going to.....
1. Port and polish the motor -- waiting for total disassembly.
2. Swap in S5 rotors (looking for the rotors & weight) I have a pair of S4 rotors and the counter weight if someone wanted to trade or sell them...
3. Swap in an e-fan -- need to do research.
4. remove the secondary plates in the throttle body (completed)
5. tune it with haltech. -- we'll cross that bridge when we're there.
6. Headers (would like RB, but will probably be pacesetter) - I already have a gutted main cat and 3" from there on back. -- looking for a header, possibly used?
7. Short ram intake (less power, but better fuel economy) -- taken care of.
8. MSD ignition -- burn more fuel (more power and less waste)
I also have removed AC, PS and emissions. I think with that set up and the way I drive (like a little old man) I should be getting 26 MPG pretty easily. I'm also looking into pre mixing instead of the stock OMP. I think overall if I can tune it right, I'll have a half decent car and maybe hit 200hp! If anyone knows where I can get some parts from above that i need please PM me.
My goal is 200 or so. I am going to.....
1. Port and polish the motor -- waiting for total disassembly.
2. Swap in S5 rotors (looking for the rotors & weight) I have a pair of S4 rotors and the counter weight if someone wanted to trade or sell them...
3. Swap in an e-fan -- need to do research.
4. remove the secondary plates in the throttle body (completed)
5. tune it with haltech. -- we'll cross that bridge when we're there.
6. Headers (would like RB, but will probably be pacesetter) - I already have a gutted main cat and 3" from there on back. -- looking for a header, possibly used?
7. Short ram intake (less power, but better fuel economy) -- taken care of.
8. MSD ignition -- burn more fuel (more power and less waste)
I also have removed AC, PS and emissions. I think with that set up and the way I drive (like a little old man) I should be getting 26 MPG pretty easily. I'm also looking into pre mixing instead of the stock OMP. I think overall if I can tune it right, I'll have a half decent car and maybe hit 200hp! If anyone knows where I can get some parts from above that i need please PM me.
Last edited by Burnin_streets; 07-11-08 at 02:32 PM. Reason: #8 & #2
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I also realize that the flywheel will not add any power, but allow the car to realize its full potential faster and remain there longer, all things held constant!
#17
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Thanks for the input everyone! I too did not buy this car for its AWESOME MPG but I wanna see if I can get it close to the 30s. Stock on a motor with 186XXX miles I was making 22 MPG.
My goal is 200 or so. I am going to.....
1. Port and polish the motor -- waiting for total disassembly.
2. Swap in S5 rotors (looking for the rotors & weight) I have a pair of S4 rotors and the counter weight if someone wanted to trade or sell them...
3. Swap in an e-fan -- need to do research.
4. remove the secondary plates in the throttle body (completed)
5. tune it with haltech. -- we'll cross that bridge when we're there.
6. Headers (would like RB, but will probably be pacesetter) - I already have a gutted main cat and 3" from there on back. -- looking for a header, possibly used?
7. Short ram intake (less power, but better fuel economy) -- taken care of.
8. MSD ignition -- burn more fuel (more power and less waste)
I also have removed AC, PS and emissions. I think with that set up and the way I drive (like a little old man) I should be getting 26 MPG pretty easily. I'm also looking into pre mixing instead of the stock OMP. I think overall if I can tune it right, I'll have a half decent car and maybe hit 200hp! If anyone knows where I can get some parts from above that i need please PM me.
My goal is 200 or so. I am going to.....
1. Port and polish the motor -- waiting for total disassembly.
2. Swap in S5 rotors (looking for the rotors & weight) I have a pair of S4 rotors and the counter weight if someone wanted to trade or sell them...
3. Swap in an e-fan -- need to do research.
4. remove the secondary plates in the throttle body (completed)
5. tune it with haltech. -- we'll cross that bridge when we're there.
6. Headers (would like RB, but will probably be pacesetter) - I already have a gutted main cat and 3" from there on back. -- looking for a header, possibly used?
7. Short ram intake (less power, but better fuel economy) -- taken care of.
8. MSD ignition -- burn more fuel (more power and less waste)
I also have removed AC, PS and emissions. I think with that set up and the way I drive (like a little old man) I should be getting 26 MPG pretty easily. I'm also looking into pre mixing instead of the stock OMP. I think overall if I can tune it right, I'll have a half decent car and maybe hit 200hp! If anyone knows where I can get some parts from above that i need please PM me.
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No its not a challenge, but it does jerk a little on some release points. Once you get use to it, it's a blast to drive. Makes a huge difference on how the car accelerates. I've got mine paired with a ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch. Its interesting on some softer surfaces.
#19
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Sounds great, but to get to 200rwhp, you're going to need to have a pretty hefty port size, which should decrease your fuel economy pretty bad. Not to mention a standalone computer. Twenty-six miles per gallon may be a little far fetched, unless you're turning your engine off when coasting downhill.
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What I meant by that is burning more of the fuel that isn't burnt in the normal combustion cycle. Like the left over fuel....stronger spark means more of the fuel will be burnt. Theoretical......probably but we all know the Rx7s run rich in general!
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yeah i thought the same thing at first but i think he means the msd will burn for of the injected fuel. not that he wants to get msd so he can inject any more fuel then he is.
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Yea, I'm not injecting any more fuel, just trying to burn more of what is left over. Becoming, dare I say it, more efficient! That way too I'll have a better chance of passing emissions also.
#24
Cautious Angel
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You have 2000+ posts and you didn't understand what he meant?
I did. Right away.
Stronger spark will more USE the current fuel more efficiently = less fuel being WASTED (thrown away instead of converted into energy)
I think your setup sounds great, get the racing beat header, its worth it.
I did. Right away.
Stronger spark will more USE the current fuel more efficiently = less fuel being WASTED (thrown away instead of converted into energy)
I think your setup sounds great, get the racing beat header, its worth it.