6PI and VDI actuator question!!
08-05-08, 11:43 AM
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6PI and VDI actuator question!!
hey guys
i am currently removing all the emissions parts from my 1990 13B N/A and i am woundering how u guys run your 6PI and VDI actuators??
i have been told to run my 6PI actuators of my exhaust gas?
but i have not been able to find out if my VDI actuator will run of exhaust gas ?
i understand that the 6PI's should open at and in around 4,000rpm and also the same with the VDI actuator but i just need some insite on how u guys are running your actuators after removing your emissions.
thanks
i am currently removing all the emissions parts from my 1990 13B N/A and i am woundering how u guys run your 6PI and VDI actuators??
i have been told to run my 6PI actuators of my exhaust gas?
but i have not been able to find out if my VDI actuator will run of exhaust gas ?
i understand that the 6PI's should open at and in around 4,000rpm and also the same with the VDI actuator but i just need some insite on how u guys are running your actuators after removing your emissions.
thanks
08-05-08, 11:49 AM
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hey guys
i am currently removing all the emissions parts from my 1990 13B N/A and i am woundering how u guys run your 6PI and VDI actuators??
i have been told to run my 6PI actuators of my exhaust gas?
but i have not been able to find out if my VDI actuator will run of exhaust gas ?
i understand that the 6PI's should open at and in around 4,000rpm and also the same with the VDI actuator but i just need some insite on how u guys are running your actuators after removing your emissions.
thanks
i am currently removing all the emissions parts from my 1990 13B N/A and i am woundering how u guys run your 6PI and VDI actuators??
i have been told to run my 6PI actuators of my exhaust gas?
but i have not been able to find out if my VDI actuator will run of exhaust gas ?
i understand that the 6PI's should open at and in around 4,000rpm and also the same with the VDI actuator but i just need some insite on how u guys are running your actuators after removing your emissions.
thanks
http://rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen...elec6port.html
08-05-08, 01:18 PM
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so basicly i can run both my 6PI and my VDI actuators of my exhaust system as long as i have enough back pressure! but i can also run this electronic system but to me that looks alot more complicated... is anyone running there actuators on exhaust gas? what do they think of it??
08-05-08, 01:32 PM
#4
so basicly i can run both my 6PI and my VDI actuators of my exhaust system as long as i have enough back pressure! but i can also run this electronic system but to me that looks alot more complicated... is anyone running there actuators on exhaust gas? what do they think of it??
The S4's auxiliary ports run off of exhaust back pressure.
08-05-08, 01:44 PM
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Well, technically the VDI solonoid is supposed to activate above 5200 rpm under load and the exhaust system doesn't provide enough back pressure. If you haven't deleted your plugs yet, then I can offer a cheap and easy remedy.
Go to autozone or something and buy a $25 horn kit with the compressor in it, some 1/4 in vacuum line, and a plastic universal vacuum line adapter, buy rent or borrow a vacuum/fuel pressure guage.and a standard automotive relay, maybe a spool of wire if you don't already have it.
Mount the compressor somewhere in the engine bay, I mounted mine on the drivers side wheel well as there was already an open screw hole there. Make sure it's tight and won't move, you don't want it to bounce off or anything. next run the + side to a good 12v source, I have mine running to the battery terminal, but I'm sure there are better looking options. Then mount the relay somewhere that looks pretty (I ran the whole operation into the center console under the mirror controls) then run the - side to to pin 87, and pin 30 to a good ground. Then for the easy part, cut off the white plug, there will be two wires, run one to pin 85, and the other to pin 86 on the relay, it doesn't matter what one goes to what. Run a vacuum line from the compressor to the vdi actuator. Cut the line approx. 3 inches from the vdi and install the universal adapter, don't cut the ends off it, just push it in really tight. then make a tiny hole in the side of the plastic adapter, we're talking like a pinhead, just to get it started. Then unplug the line from the vdi actuator and hook it go the vacuum/fuel pressure regulator. Take a couple pieces of wire and jump the compressor while watching the guage. It should shoot up to about 15psi or something. Waaaay too high. So take a razor blade or pocket knife or something and slowly make your hole in the universal adapter a little bigger, just a tiny tiny bit at a time, and recheck. I would should for about 3.5 psi. Once you have the pressure vented right, you can plug the vacuum line back to the vdi actuator, jump the compressor, and test to make sure the actuator operates fully and smoothly. If it does, you should be good to go.
I think the total cost of this if you have to buy absolutely everything (Including the pressure guage if you have to buy one) is under $70, less than an rpm switch, and easier to install. It took me about an hour total to install, and I picked up a 12v led from autozone as well in put it inline with the vdi circuit, and put it in the center console so it lights up when it's on.
As for aux ports, I've seen people weld bungs on thier headers and run a copper line directly to the vacuum assembly for them, they say it works fine.
Go to autozone or something and buy a $25 horn kit with the compressor in it, some 1/4 in vacuum line, and a plastic universal vacuum line adapter, buy rent or borrow a vacuum/fuel pressure guage.and a standard automotive relay, maybe a spool of wire if you don't already have it.
Mount the compressor somewhere in the engine bay, I mounted mine on the drivers side wheel well as there was already an open screw hole there. Make sure it's tight and won't move, you don't want it to bounce off or anything. next run the + side to a good 12v source, I have mine running to the battery terminal, but I'm sure there are better looking options. Then mount the relay somewhere that looks pretty (I ran the whole operation into the center console under the mirror controls) then run the - side to to pin 87, and pin 30 to a good ground. Then for the easy part, cut off the white plug, there will be two wires, run one to pin 85, and the other to pin 86 on the relay, it doesn't matter what one goes to what. Run a vacuum line from the compressor to the vdi actuator. Cut the line approx. 3 inches from the vdi and install the universal adapter, don't cut the ends off it, just push it in really tight. then make a tiny hole in the side of the plastic adapter, we're talking like a pinhead, just to get it started. Then unplug the line from the vdi actuator and hook it go the vacuum/fuel pressure regulator. Take a couple pieces of wire and jump the compressor while watching the guage. It should shoot up to about 15psi or something. Waaaay too high. So take a razor blade or pocket knife or something and slowly make your hole in the universal adapter a little bigger, just a tiny tiny bit at a time, and recheck. I would should for about 3.5 psi. Once you have the pressure vented right, you can plug the vacuum line back to the vdi actuator, jump the compressor, and test to make sure the actuator operates fully and smoothly. If it does, you should be good to go.
I think the total cost of this if you have to buy absolutely everything (Including the pressure guage if you have to buy one) is under $70, less than an rpm switch, and easier to install. It took me about an hour total to install, and I picked up a 12v led from autozone as well in put it inline with the vdi circuit, and put it in the center console so it lights up when it's on.
As for aux ports, I've seen people weld bungs on thier headers and run a copper line directly to the vacuum assembly for them, they say it works fine.
08-05-08, 02:16 PM
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Well, technically the VDI solonoid is supposed to activate above 5200 rpm under load and the exhaust system doesn't provide enough back pressure. If you haven't deleted your plugs yet, then I can offer a cheap and easy remedy.
Go to autozone or something and buy a $25 horn kit with the compressor in it, some 1/4 in vacuum line, and a plastic universal vacuum line adapter, buy rent or borrow a vacuum/fuel pressure guage.and a standard automotive relay, maybe a spool of wire if you don't already have it.
Mount the compressor somewhere in the engine bay, I mounted mine on the drivers side wheel well as there was already an open screw hole there. Make sure it's tight and won't move, you don't want it to bounce off or anything. next run the + side to a good 12v source, I have mine running to the battery terminal, but I'm sure there are better looking options. Then mount the relay somewhere that looks pretty (I ran the whole operation into the center console under the mirror controls) then run the - side to to pin 87, and pin 30 to a good ground. Then for the easy part, cut off the white plug, there will be two wires, run one to pin 85, and the other to pin 86 on the relay, it doesn't matter what one goes to what. Run a vacuum line from the compressor to the vdi actuator. Cut the line approx. 3 inches from the vdi and install the universal adapter, don't cut the ends off it, just push it in really tight. then make a tiny hole in the side of the plastic adapter, we're talking like a pinhead, just to get it started. Then unplug the line from the vdi actuator and hook it go the vacuum/fuel pressure regulator. Take a couple pieces of wire and jump the compressor while watching the guage. It should shoot up to about 15psi or something. Waaaay too high. So take a razor blade or pocket knife or something and slowly make your hole in the universal adapter a little bigger, just a tiny tiny bit at a time, and recheck. I would should for about 3.5 psi. Once you have the pressure vented right, you can plug the vacuum line back to the vdi actuator, jump the compressor, and test to make sure the actuator operates fully and smoothly. If it does, you should be good to go.
I think the total cost of this if you have to buy absolutely everything (Including the pressure guage if you have to buy one) is under $70, less than an rpm switch, and easier to install. It took me about an hour total to install, and I picked up a 12v led from autozone as well in put it inline with the vdi circuit, and put it in the center console so it lights up when it's on.
As for aux ports, I've seen people weld bungs on thier headers and run a copper line directly to the vacuum assembly for them, they say it works fine.
Go to autozone or something and buy a $25 horn kit with the compressor in it, some 1/4 in vacuum line, and a plastic universal vacuum line adapter, buy rent or borrow a vacuum/fuel pressure guage.and a standard automotive relay, maybe a spool of wire if you don't already have it.
Mount the compressor somewhere in the engine bay, I mounted mine on the drivers side wheel well as there was already an open screw hole there. Make sure it's tight and won't move, you don't want it to bounce off or anything. next run the + side to a good 12v source, I have mine running to the battery terminal, but I'm sure there are better looking options. Then mount the relay somewhere that looks pretty (I ran the whole operation into the center console under the mirror controls) then run the - side to to pin 87, and pin 30 to a good ground. Then for the easy part, cut off the white plug, there will be two wires, run one to pin 85, and the other to pin 86 on the relay, it doesn't matter what one goes to what. Run a vacuum line from the compressor to the vdi actuator. Cut the line approx. 3 inches from the vdi and install the universal adapter, don't cut the ends off it, just push it in really tight. then make a tiny hole in the side of the plastic adapter, we're talking like a pinhead, just to get it started. Then unplug the line from the vdi actuator and hook it go the vacuum/fuel pressure regulator. Take a couple pieces of wire and jump the compressor while watching the guage. It should shoot up to about 15psi or something. Waaaay too high. So take a razor blade or pocket knife or something and slowly make your hole in the universal adapter a little bigger, just a tiny tiny bit at a time, and recheck. I would should for about 3.5 psi. Once you have the pressure vented right, you can plug the vacuum line back to the vdi actuator, jump the compressor, and test to make sure the actuator operates fully and smoothly. If it does, you should be good to go.
I think the total cost of this if you have to buy absolutely everything (Including the pressure guage if you have to buy one) is under $70, less than an rpm switch, and easier to install. It took me about an hour total to install, and I picked up a 12v led from autozone as well in put it inline with the vdi circuit, and put it in the center console so it lights up when it's on.
As for aux ports, I've seen people weld bungs on thier headers and run a copper line directly to the vacuum assembly for them, they say it works fine.
Legit.
08-05-08, 05:54 PM
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Well, technically the VDI solonoid is supposed to activate above 5200 rpm under load and the exhaust system doesn't provide enough back pressure. If you haven't deleted your plugs yet, then I can offer a cheap and easy remedy.
Go to autozone or something and buy a $25 horn kit with the compressor in it, some 1/4 in vacuum line, and a plastic universal vacuum line adapter, buy rent or borrow a vacuum/fuel pressure guage.and a standard automotive relay, maybe a spool of wire if you don't already have it.
Mount the compressor somewhere in the engine bay, I mounted mine on the drivers side wheel well as there was already an open screw hole there. Make sure it's tight and won't move, you don't want it to bounce off or anything. next run the + side to a good 12v source, I have mine running to the battery terminal, but I'm sure there are better looking options. Then mount the relay somewhere that looks pretty (I ran the whole operation into the center console under the mirror controls) then run the - side to to pin 87, and pin 30 to a good ground. Then for the easy part, cut off the white plug, there will be two wires, run one to pin 85, and the other to pin 86 on the relay, it doesn't matter what one goes to what. Run a vacuum line from the compressor to the vdi actuator. Cut the line approx. 3 inches from the vdi and install the universal adapter, don't cut the ends off it, just push it in really tight. then make a tiny hole in the side of the plastic adapter, we're talking like a pinhead, just to get it started. Then unplug the line from the vdi actuator and hook it go the vacuum/fuel pressure regulator. Take a couple pieces of wire and jump the compressor while watching the guage. It should shoot up to about 15psi or something. Waaaay too high. So take a razor blade or pocket knife or something and slowly make your hole in the universal adapter a little bigger, just a tiny tiny bit at a time, and recheck. I would should for about 3.5 psi. Once you have the pressure vented right, you can plug the vacuum line back to the vdi actuator, jump the compressor, and test to make sure the actuator operates fully and smoothly. If it does, you should be good to go.
I think the total cost of this if you have to buy absolutely everything (Including the pressure guage if you have to buy one) is under $70, less than an rpm switch, and easier to install. It took me about an hour total to install, and I picked up a 12v led from autozone as well in put it inline with the vdi circuit, and put it in the center console so it lights up when it's on.
As for aux ports, I've seen people weld bungs on thier headers and run a copper line directly to the vacuum assembly for them, they say it works fine.
Go to autozone or something and buy a $25 horn kit with the compressor in it, some 1/4 in vacuum line, and a plastic universal vacuum line adapter, buy rent or borrow a vacuum/fuel pressure guage.and a standard automotive relay, maybe a spool of wire if you don't already have it.
Mount the compressor somewhere in the engine bay, I mounted mine on the drivers side wheel well as there was already an open screw hole there. Make sure it's tight and won't move, you don't want it to bounce off or anything. next run the + side to a good 12v source, I have mine running to the battery terminal, but I'm sure there are better looking options. Then mount the relay somewhere that looks pretty (I ran the whole operation into the center console under the mirror controls) then run the - side to to pin 87, and pin 30 to a good ground. Then for the easy part, cut off the white plug, there will be two wires, run one to pin 85, and the other to pin 86 on the relay, it doesn't matter what one goes to what. Run a vacuum line from the compressor to the vdi actuator. Cut the line approx. 3 inches from the vdi and install the universal adapter, don't cut the ends off it, just push it in really tight. then make a tiny hole in the side of the plastic adapter, we're talking like a pinhead, just to get it started. Then unplug the line from the vdi actuator and hook it go the vacuum/fuel pressure regulator. Take a couple pieces of wire and jump the compressor while watching the guage. It should shoot up to about 15psi or something. Waaaay too high. So take a razor blade or pocket knife or something and slowly make your hole in the universal adapter a little bigger, just a tiny tiny bit at a time, and recheck. I would should for about 3.5 psi. Once you have the pressure vented right, you can plug the vacuum line back to the vdi actuator, jump the compressor, and test to make sure the actuator operates fully and smoothly. If it does, you should be good to go.
I think the total cost of this if you have to buy absolutely everything (Including the pressure guage if you have to buy one) is under $70, less than an rpm switch, and easier to install. It took me about an hour total to install, and I picked up a 12v led from autozone as well in put it inline with the vdi circuit, and put it in the center console so it lights up when it's on.
As for aux ports, I've seen people weld bungs on thier headers and run a copper line directly to the vacuum assembly for them, they say it works fine.
thanks man thats a wiked idea and prob the way i will do it and then just run my actuators of my exhaust
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08-06-08, 08:15 AM
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correct me if i'm wrong, but doesnt the vdi work off of vaccum?
the 6pt actuators work off psi, yes, but i though i could have sworn that the vdi is vaccum/- operated. check the service manual. isnt the last upper sonolid valve on the rack the one for the vdi?
the 6pt actuators work off psi, yes, but i though i could have sworn that the vdi is vaccum/- operated. check the service manual. isnt the last upper sonolid valve on the rack the one for the vdi?
08-06-08, 08:50 AM
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The one with the white plug is for vdi, and it's normally activated when the ecu reads that the engine is at or above 5200rpm and under load, it opens the solenoid valve allowing pressure from the airpump to reach the vdi actuator.
Here are pics of the setup.
Please ignore that switch. When I originally set this up I had the compressor ran to a momentary on switch and just controlled it manually. i got bored with that very very quickly, so I actually went out and bought a relay.
Here are pics of the setup.
Please ignore that switch. When I originally set this up I had the compressor ran to a momentary on switch and just controlled it manually. i got bored with that very very quickly, so I actually went out and bought a relay.
08-06-08, 09:01 AM
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yes, but are you sure it's pressure (+) and not vaccum (-) that actuates the vdi?
i can recall taking my intake apart once, and i thought i had to suck on the vac line to actuate it, i can remember because i hooked up my hand vac pump and watched the lever open the vdi.
the 6pt actuaters i know you have to blow into the vac line for the actuater arm to come out
i can recall taking my intake apart once, and i thought i had to suck on the vac line to actuate it, i can remember because i hooked up my hand vac pump and watched the lever open the vdi.
the 6pt actuaters i know you have to blow into the vac line for the actuater arm to come out
08-06-08, 01:02 PM
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I am 100% positive that it is pressure. Now one of the options that I considered when I was working on this solution was to make it run on vacuum, but then decided that it won't work.
Easy way to tell. If the nipple is on the bottom it's pressure, it pushes plunger to make it extend, if the nipple is towards the top of the pot, such as on the pot that actuates the secondary butterfly plates, then it's vacuum because it creates suction to pull the plunger and extend the rod.
Easy way to tell, take a lenth of hose, attach it to your vdi actuator, and blow into it. It only take 2.8 to open fully.
This is all in the FSM
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory..._non_turbo.pdf
pages 45 and 46
Easy way to tell. If the nipple is on the bottom it's pressure, it pushes plunger to make it extend, if the nipple is towards the top of the pot, such as on the pot that actuates the secondary butterfly plates, then it's vacuum because it creates suction to pull the plunger and extend the rod.
Easy way to tell, take a lenth of hose, attach it to your vdi actuator, and blow into it. It only take 2.8 to open fully.
This is all in the FSM
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory..._non_turbo.pdf
pages 45 and 46
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