lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Hey, good news. I found my camera. Bad news is it's too dark outside for me to take really good comparitive shots.





The phone is just for a dimension comparison.

j0rd4n

those appear to have a little more depth than the standard actuators, no? (with the pin in)

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Negative. They're all around smaller in all respects. Length, Width, Depth.

j0rd4n

wow, that's awesome

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to mention however that these solenoids are only for proof of concept (make sure I can do a Wire hook up and activate both at the specific rpm). The final version will probably be sealed extended life units, but that may get nixed if these are robust enough to withstand heat and vibrations.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

I pulled an actuator as I'm attempting to remove the LIM (stupid rain). Here's a more direct comparison between the solenoids and the actuators:

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Looks like I'll be holding off on this project for a little while longer. I have to first find some sleeves on the cheap (Whoever built my engine removed them).

j0rd4n

wow, those things are MUCH smaller. are the sealed units much more expensive? seems like you could make a nice enclosure fairly cheap.

i'm really liking that you want to control their opening point w/a standalone, because i like the opportunity to choose the best time to open (ie: after someone ports their engine and what-not, they can re-run the 2 dyno runs *one closed, one open* to find the best rpm to open them at

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

I'm still working out the prices and what not, but for a sealed continuous solenoid, the ones that have similair force cost roughly around $80 per unit. I'm trying to get my hands on a pair of sleeves so I can see how much force it will take to operate. I imagine it shouldn't take a whole lot. I did a little math from the actuators I pulled, and I calculated the force necessary to operate the actuators as around 4.2 lbs start of actuation and fully actuated at 7.35lbs. I'm fairly certain those forces are more to over come the internal spring, and not to rotate the 6PI
Very true. I believe the best way to accomplish that would be to over lay the two runs on top of each other. The interception point would be the ideal location. However this would be come troublesome because if you alter the timing, increase the boost, or adjust the fuel curve you'd have to run it all over again to set the point... that is unless there's a better way.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Well, I noticed I had an extra few moments to figure out the placement of the Solenoids. My original idea of mearly placing the solenoids almost in a stock location is not advisable as they would interfer with my future plans of the turbo set up. So I did some dry runs on where everything should go:

I removed the Linear Actuators, and as you can see the movement of the sleeves is accomplished mearly by this shaft being rotated around it's major axis.

The other side on being removed and beginning inspection of the shaft. (The right side has siezed screws so, it'll just have to stay like it is at the moment).
The Rear 6PI Shaft was cleaned and a final inspection:



Now this is where it starts to get interesting:

This is a dry mock up of how it would sit on the engine. I measured the distance and this is a fairly accurate representation. Unfortunatly the way the turbo will sit it would be directly on the ACV and I would be right in the same position Aaron was when He did his conversion. This leaves me with only a few directions to go with it.

One would be to put a spacer in for about two inches worth. This would raise the turbo up a little bit and cause it to sit higher realitive to the stock location, which might prove to be the easiest. Or two would be to make a custom manifold. I'm honestly debating the custom manifold as I won't have an Air Pump anymore and will have significantly more room to move the turbo forward rather than up or back.

Anyways, the reason this is important is because if the turbo is to be in the stock location or raised up then the solenoids CANNOT be mounted close to the stock location of the linear actuators. There just isn't enough room. Granted if I go the way of the custom manifold it may provide me with alot more room, however it's a gambit as of right now. To remedy the potential problem I figured out how to mount the solenoids in such a way as to negate all possible interference from the turbo, no matter which direction I choose to go with the manifold.


Mounting the solenoids perpendicular to the stock location and on the side removes them from interference with the exhaust manifold, and even the turbo itself. This however may raise some eyebrows as there is no direct connection with the solenoid for movement. "But LAX, don't the solenoids need to be connected to the rods?" Yes. Yes they do. However the way they will activate the 6PI is pretty straight forward. A bar will come straight back, perpendicular to the solenoid and then bend 90* towards the activation lever (I don't know what else to call that nub). This however will only provide for the furthest point of activation on a linear path and will not provide for a full activation. To accomplish that another bend will be made within 5* of parallel. This will allow the full activation of the 6PI without anything more fancy than a bar.

That covers activation, but what about De-Activation? That is another ball game, and as near as I can figure the best way to accomplish that would be with a coil spring on the rod itself and a return spring on the solenoid. I'm sure I could easily use only one spring, but that would require a little work on the connecting rod.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

I'd figure out the force required and hang a weight from the solenoid that's the same number of pounds. Then energize it and see if it can lift the weight. I dunno how much weight to use, but I think the stock actuators use 1-2 psi and force = pressure x area. That way you can test before installation.

This will be interesting when it's done.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

good luck. Others have tried this project and failed to find a reliable solenoid that could withstand the heat.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

[Taken from a previous post]I imagine it shouldn't take a whole lot. I did a little math from the actuators I pulled, and I calculated the force necessary to operate the actuators as around 4.2 lbs start of actuation and fully actuated at 7.35lbs. I'm fairly certain those forces are more to over come the internal spring, and not to rotate the 6PI.

The 6PI Rotation can only be calculated when I have the sleeves put in. As of right now I'm waiting on paypal so I can order some.

I'm hoping I can finish it in a timely manner and show some actual results.

That is one of my fears. Right now these solenoids are rated up to 250 some odd degrees F. Moving them away from direct sources of heat will probably help considerably. However long duration trips the entire engine heats up. I may infact have to contract out to have the solenoids produced to my specs. If that's the case this would turn into quite the project with quite the price tag... I may infact consider building my own solenoid.... We'll see. As of right now this is just a proof of concept.