5th blown motor teardown pictorial: 56k NO WAY!
12-02-05, 02:37 AM
#1
5th blown motor teardown pictorial: 56k NO WAY!
Here you can see the chipped fin on the turbine wheel, likely due to the apex-seal savagely exiting the turbo.
Yes, I am a brutal Yeti-man... Working in the most deadly conditions known to man... A gnarly SEATTLE SNOW-STORM! I think we got 1/4".
This is a shot of the sweet fly-wheel 'stopper' that my "rotary mentor's" Dad created.
Last edited by eriksseven; 12-02-05 at 02:40 AM.
12-02-05, 02:51 AM
#3
This is my fly-wheel removal setup. Fatty socket, breaker-bar and the chain/wood setup so the motor doesn't 'flip' over as I apply pressure to the breaker-bar.
If you look closely at this image you can see that one of the corner-seals was 'frozen' flush into it's slot. The spring behind it had flattened.
These are some pics of my front and rear irons. You can see my uber skilled, port-master style.
Suprisingly all of my irons came out undamaged. 
Front rotor-housing... Undamaged!
Rear rotor housing... Undamaged! Except, take a close look at the exhaust sleeve.
You can see where the apex seal made it's exit. 
This is my rear rotor. Look at the apex seal-slot.
It's 'folded' over and bent up.
These are my coolant seals... Is it ok to reuse them? Or is it a general consensus that they need to be repaced when the motor's taken apart...?
Good comparison between my stock turbo (top) and my hybrid TO4b turbo (bottom).
12-02-05, 03:05 AM
#6
Here's the best pic:
The apex seal on the left was taken out of the rear-rotor... The rest is history. Literally. There's nothing left.
The middle-left seal had it's tip broken off and the tip is history too. The seal in the middle-right is for comparison.
The apex-seal tip to the left has also been shattered, with no trace of it's missing peice. The one on the right is for comparison too.
Damage conclusion:
-The rear rotor had one flattened corner-seal
-One apex-seal had 3/4 missing
-Another apex-seal had a shattered tip
-One apex-seal tip was shattered
-The rear rotor-housing had a severely chipped and damaged exhaust sleeve
-One of the rear rotor's apex-seal slots had been chewed up
-The turbo had a chip on one of the turbine-wheel blades.
Suprisingly, the irons and housings appear to be undamaged and reusable. I have several other TII rotors, so I can replace the 'chewed' up rotor with a good one.
My rebuild list is:
apex-seals and springs
corner-seal springs
oil-seals
I think that's it...
The apex seal on the left was taken out of the rear-rotor... The rest is history. Literally. There's nothing left.
The middle-left seal had it's tip broken off and the tip is history too. The seal in the middle-right is for comparison.
The apex-seal tip to the left has also been shattered, with no trace of it's missing peice. The one on the right is for comparison too.
Damage conclusion:
-The rear rotor had one flattened corner-seal
-One apex-seal had 3/4 missing
-Another apex-seal had a shattered tip
-One apex-seal tip was shattered
-The rear rotor-housing had a severely chipped and damaged exhaust sleeve
-One of the rear rotor's apex-seal slots had been chewed up
-The turbo had a chip on one of the turbine-wheel blades.
Suprisingly, the irons and housings appear to be undamaged and reusable.
I have several other TII rotors, so I can replace the 'chewed' up rotor with a good one.My rebuild list is:
apex-seals and springs
corner-seal springs
oil-seals
I think that's it...
12-02-05, 03:10 AM
#7
Originally Posted by trochoid
Looking at the rotor groove and the exhaust port, you may need a little more bevel at the top of the exhaust.
How do you like that hybrid and which stage is it? I'm contemplating one for my 12a-bp when I turbo it.
How do you like that hybrid and which stage is it? I'm contemplating one for my 12a-bp when I turbo it.
Hybrid was purchased off another forum member. It is built to similar specs as the BNR stage 1. The wheel is a slightly different design (supposedly) and is supposed to produce more power than it's BNR counterpart.
Question; if the chipped turbine wheel is the only damage that was done to the turbo, is it still OK to use?
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12-02-05, 03:16 AM
#8
Originally Posted by turbine
what up rotary master how many engines are you going to build?
that engine looks clean on the outside
that engine looks clean on the outside
Shoot man, this'll be my sixth.
I'm likely selling my TII to some dude on the 15th (after it's rebuilt etc.).
But I've got another one in the works.
12-02-05, 05:31 AM
#12
Originally Posted by t-von
What caused this one to blow?
Months ago, I was having issues with my hybrid spooling properly. I had bitten off more than I could chew when I installed a hybrid turbo, 720cc injectors (with resistors), fuel pump, EBC and SAFC... All this was done at the same time and as you would expect, there were issues.
The biggest problem was that the hybrid wasn't reaching full boost until 5.5k RPM's before starting to drop at a little after 6k RPM's... After reading around I decided that perhaps the poor spool was attributed to the 5psi stock WG. Soo... I decided to do the "WG actuator rod" mod.
Well, it didn't seem to do much.
This was coupled with what I believed was a nagging vac. leak. I did a full block-off plate setup to try and eliminate the variables. It didn't work.
To make a long story short, the problem turned out to be two things. One, I had already 'blown' my motor slightly and two, somehow the WG line coming from the compressor wheel nipple had fallen off. Like, the metal nipple on the compressor wheel had FALLEN OUT. I had my stock airbox setup at the time, so somehow I missed seeing it 'dangling' from the turbo, lol.
TO THE POINT:
I blew my motor this time because I allowed the car to boost to 15psi. I had told myself (and my passenger) that I was setting a limit of 5.5k RPM's and 10psi. This was a fresh rebuild with around 1200 miles on it. By the end of the night I was taking the car to redline and boosting to 15psi. 15psi was NOT my intention, but it happened because I had shortened my WG rod BEFORE and I didn't think to change it back to stock. 15psi was my MINIMUM boost, with the EBC OFF...
I intended to change it the next day... lol. Sadly, that day never came. But here I am now.
So yeah, the motor blew due to detonation.
12-02-05, 07:05 AM
#15
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by eriksseven
Atkins my friend.
I was going to guess either Hurley or Atkins.
Thanx for confirming that.
Yeah, chamfer your exhaust port - I think this causes the catastrophic failure of those apex seals like that.
-Ted
12-02-05, 07:11 AM
#16
Originally Posted by RETed
Ah, that explains it...
I was going to guess either Hurley or Atkins.
Thanx for confirming that.
Yeah, chamfer your exhaust port - I think this causes the catastrophic failure of those apex seals like that.
-Ted
I was going to guess either Hurley or Atkins.
Thanx for confirming that.
Yeah, chamfer your exhaust port - I think this causes the catastrophic failure of those apex seals like that.
-Ted
haha, I did do a small 2mm bevel on the top-half of the ports... Perhaps not enough though.
12-02-05, 07:03 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by eriksseven
Good comparison between my stock turbo (top) and my hybrid TO4b turbo (bottom).
the wheel looksl ike a V trim?
12-02-05, 08:08 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Kahren
that is just a wheel upgrade the housing is stock so no t04b.
the wheel looksl ike a V trim?
the wheel looksl ike a V trim?
But you're saying that there's no such thing as a TO4b 'wheel' upgrade? (Like I said, I have no idea).
Regardless, I sold the turbo today to another forum member. He's putting it on a sweet s5 TII swapped FB.
12-02-05, 11:57 PM
#24
I "lost" my emissions....
try that thing they have on the renisis, where the rotors are side slotted so your exaust and intake arent blocked at times, it in another thread near the top
12-02-05, 11:59 PM
#25
I "lost" my emissions....
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