5th and 6th port cleaning for the elderly..:)
#1
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
5th and 6th port cleaning for the elderly..:)
Hi Guys
I had a couple of rotaries 12 or so years ago including a really nice REPU. Just got a nice 89 vert. But I'm pretty sure the 5th and 6th ports aren't opening. Never tackled this issue before, and as I'm poking around the engine re-familiarizing myself, I found I can't freakin' SEE like I did back then!
Anyhoo, is there a pictorial/video, etc that can give an old guy some confidence to take the upper and lower intakes out and get this done?
Thanks in advance, sure is fun to get back to these unique cars!
I had a couple of rotaries 12 or so years ago including a really nice REPU. Just got a nice 89 vert. But I'm pretty sure the 5th and 6th ports aren't opening. Never tackled this issue before, and as I'm poking around the engine re-familiarizing myself, I found I can't freakin' SEE like I did back then!
Anyhoo, is there a pictorial/video, etc that can give an old guy some confidence to take the upper and lower intakes out and get this done?
Thanks in advance, sure is fun to get back to these unique cars!
#2
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
Being similarly afflicted, I sympathise with your "old eyes".
If your engine is intact and in the car, you'll be discovering your "old back" too, because you'll be hunched over for hours working on the manifolds.
There is only one replaceable part (well, one for each side) and that's a seal on the actuating shaft, so order two and have 'em handy.
Depending the the disassembly getting to the lower manifold, you may need the manifold gaskets and almost certainly, some vac hose also.
Once you have the manifolds off, you can pull out the port sleeves, which are aluminum and likely caked in crud. I soaked mine in Purple Power overnight and they came out spotless.
Cleaning out the port itself is tough since you can't just spray cleaner into the engine, so I used swabs/whatever to get it as clean as I could.
The actuator shaft (located in the LIM) can be polished and the long bearing it spins in can be cleaned with brake clean and a bottle brush.
I assembled both the sleeve and the rod dry because any kind of lube seemed to make it move sluggishly and I figured the smoother, the better.
You can test the actuator by just blowing into the fitting on the bottom.
It's all pretty simple and (mostly) self-explanatory, you shouldn't have any trouble.
If your engine is intact and in the car, you'll be discovering your "old back" too, because you'll be hunched over for hours working on the manifolds.
There is only one replaceable part (well, one for each side) and that's a seal on the actuating shaft, so order two and have 'em handy.
Depending the the disassembly getting to the lower manifold, you may need the manifold gaskets and almost certainly, some vac hose also.
Once you have the manifolds off, you can pull out the port sleeves, which are aluminum and likely caked in crud. I soaked mine in Purple Power overnight and they came out spotless.
Cleaning out the port itself is tough since you can't just spray cleaner into the engine, so I used swabs/whatever to get it as clean as I could.
The actuator shaft (located in the LIM) can be polished and the long bearing it spins in can be cleaned with brake clean and a bottle brush.
I assembled both the sleeve and the rod dry because any kind of lube seemed to make it move sluggishly and I figured the smoother, the better.
You can test the actuator by just blowing into the fitting on the bottom.
It's all pretty simple and (mostly) self-explanatory, you shouldn't have any trouble.
#3
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Being similarly afflicted, I sympathise with your "old eyes".
If your engine is intact and in the car, you'll be discovering your "old back" too, because you'll be hunched over for hours working on the manifolds.
There is only one replaceable part (well, one for each side) and that's a seal on the actuating shaft, so order two and have 'em handy.
Depending the the disassembly getting to the lower manifold, you may need the manifold gaskets and almost certainly, some vac hose also.
Once you have the manifolds off, you can pull out the port sleeves, which are aluminum and likely caked in crud. I soaked mine in Purple Power overnight and they came out spotless.
Cleaning out the port itself is tough since you can't just spray cleaner into the engine, so I used swabs/whatever to get it as clean as I could.
The actuator shaft (located in the LIM) can be polished and the long bearing it spins in can be cleaned with brake clean and a bottle brush.
I assembled both the sleeve and the rod dry because any kind of lube seemed to make it move sluggishly and I figured the smoother, the better.
You can test the actuator by just blowing into the fitting on the bottom.
It's all pretty simple and (mostly) self-explanatory, you shouldn't have any trouble.
If your engine is intact and in the car, you'll be discovering your "old back" too, because you'll be hunched over for hours working on the manifolds.
There is only one replaceable part (well, one for each side) and that's a seal on the actuating shaft, so order two and have 'em handy.
Depending the the disassembly getting to the lower manifold, you may need the manifold gaskets and almost certainly, some vac hose also.
Once you have the manifolds off, you can pull out the port sleeves, which are aluminum and likely caked in crud. I soaked mine in Purple Power overnight and they came out spotless.
Cleaning out the port itself is tough since you can't just spray cleaner into the engine, so I used swabs/whatever to get it as clean as I could.
The actuator shaft (located in the LIM) can be polished and the long bearing it spins in can be cleaned with brake clean and a bottle brush.
I assembled both the sleeve and the rod dry because any kind of lube seemed to make it move sluggishly and I figured the smoother, the better.
You can test the actuator by just blowing into the fitting on the bottom.
It's all pretty simple and (mostly) self-explanatory, you shouldn't have any trouble.