This is an 87 T2. I went through an extended break in period of 3k. By this I mean that for every 1k I went up 500rpm's. I started this at 3000rpm. I have changed the oil at 500mi, 1000mi, 2000mi, 3000mi, and 4000mi from the rebuild. I have not beat on the car and am wondering if I got screwed on the rebuild?

All of your input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

Forgot to add that the stock housings were reused.

Thanks

 

Typical with reused rotor housings. What else did you not replace? What were your seal clearances? Is the engine ported?

If it starts fine, and runs just drive the car. You will find its a LOT harder to blow an engine with lower compression..

 

It does start and run pretty damn good. It was rebuilt with oem 2mm apex seals, third gen corner springs, and corner seals. This is what I was told.

 

I did not rebuild it myself so I am not sure what clearances were. The motor is not ported either(to my knowledge).

 

Well there is a chance then that it was just a crappy rebuild. I assumed you were using RA apex seals, which im my experience yeild lower compression results, especially on used rotor housings.

Just drive the car...

 

The compression was taken from a warm engine in T plugs on a conventional tester.
Dead even across the board 75.

 

Who did the rebuilt and why don't you call them up an tell them whats going on with your car. you should have some kind of waranty on the rebuilt if it was built by a real rotary man. just my 2 cents. well good luck hope thing work out for you.

 

Yesh, I plan on contacting him, but i want to get some opinions of some experienced builders before I go and bust his *****.

 

Bust his *****, but not hard. I am assuming you did agree to have used housings put in the motor.

 

I bought the car with the rebuilt motor. He said that it blew a water seal and that was the reason for the rebuild.

 

wow, did you ever get to see the internals to see if there was any damage?

And if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the rebuild?

 

I wouldn't say that a used housing typically yeild that low of compression however lower than fresh housings, yes! I reused my housings and I had 90 in front and 100 in rear and the front I believe has a stuck side seal witch is why the lower front reading also the reason I'm having a stupid amount of blow by. Also this is while using ra seals.

 

No, I never saw the engine while it was apart. I paid $3400 for the car with the rebuilt 13BT.

 

I went throught the same thing. I bought a car with a supposed rebuilt motor due to a blown coolent seal. the car ran fine for about 2 months. Than when i started to have problems i took it to a mech and turned out the motor had low comp. A month later the motor took a dump and when i had the motor opened turne out the guy had re used the housings and the old apex seals.

 

I have had this car since September of 05 and I have had to deal with many electrical problems, but I expected to have some of those with a 19 year old vehicle. I would think that compression would be higher.
The only good thing about the compression is that both front anrear rotors are at 75 psi on all faces.

Hopefully this guy did not pull that **** on this one.

 

Tell us about the compression gauge you used.

Did it have a schrader valve that you removed from the part that is held against the sparkplug holes? If using this type, did you remove the schrader in the end?

Or a compression tester that has a schrader valve on the side near the gauge itself? If so, did you either hold that schrader open or remove it?

 

It did not have the schrader valve in the end of it. It was a conventional tester with no side release either.

 

Sory, it does have a side release and it is in, but was depressed.

 

I have an 87 T2 with 6K on the rebuilt. The guy also said it has a 'minor' port. All done before I bought the car. Both faces on mine also read 75 psi. I confronted the mechanic and he seemed confused about static compression and crank compression. Kinda pointless anyway, I didnt pay for the rebuild so he isn't gonna tear the engine apart for me.

It dirves just fine and I am doing mods to it like it was a brand new jspec. Once I blow the motor, I will get one!

Find yourself a decent roarty guy for the big stuff, do the little stuff yourself and Drive the car!

 

I paid for a car with a rebuilt motor from someone who does tis for a living. I want what I paid for and 75psi does not seem like a professional job in my opinion.

 

There is also a chance that a lot of the other seals did not get replaced. I have seen an engine that was rebuilt with all new seals and it had 60psi across each face.

Do you happen to know what rpm you are cranking at, cranking rpm makes a lot of difference.

 

The tach needle bounces to 250-300 then fires. It is a brand new battery.

 

What should the rpm be during starting?

 

I used a conventional gauge on it. Duel shrader system, one in the chamber that is removed and one release shrader at the gauge end that I leave in. All bounces were rythmatic at 75psi.

Either the dude must have been a liar or they only replaced the coolant seals probably.