2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

50 dollar paint job

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Old May 9, 2006 | 04:46 PM
  #26  
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My bad. So it was the orange car he painted 6 years ago. Sorry...
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Old May 9, 2006 | 05:05 PM
  #27  
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I was *kinda* hopeful about this, but nah... I'd rather spray my cars. Plus, it's more fun with less "hands-on" work.

Those cars still look pretty good for $50!
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Old May 9, 2006 | 11:47 PM
  #28  
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Word...
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Old May 10, 2006 | 12:15 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by classicauto
Probably didn't sand the orange peel out all the way

The roller trick *can* be made to look decent, but just don't expect the paint to hold up for very long........unless the car lives in a cyrogenic chamber
if you can afford a cyrogenic chamber, oyu can afford a real paint job, although im not too sure what cyrogenics has to do with painting your car
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Old May 10, 2006 | 12:20 AM
  #30  
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ah! still on this topic. Just a job well done good for 4 years, I'd say?
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Old May 10, 2006 | 12:46 AM
  #31  
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Man this thread remind of me of case modding. I remember spending over $200 on, primer paint, sand paper, wax, n a sanding sponge.

All i can say sanding is a b*tch.
Y u may ask wow $200. Bad rattle can skill = alot of sanding + buying more paint.
ALso a few of my paint got stolen.... ALso my primer too...
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Old May 10, 2006 | 01:16 AM
  #32  
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Single stage urethane isnt too much more than that and will look so much better. Ive seen industrial line stuff at my work that looks similar to that stuff, its all flat colors too and it will take serious abuse for about the same price, gotta buy it by the gallon though which is more than you would need for a rx7.

In my opinion having painted several cars, you get what you pay for with paint. Longevity is the biggest variable, Gloss and metallics vary largely as well at the low end. If your gonna do the work, do it right, with a spray gun. And if you paint right over the old paint make sure it is the same color, or the first ding and you are gonna be very embarassed. Once those die back they are gonna look worse than ****. I guarantee you that black VW at least was polished before that pic.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 08:09 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by LAN
You should know these stuff man, .. you own a body shop.
I think you misunderstood - I was asking him because I was calling himn out, that VW was not painted with a roller or tremclad........and I asked if he waxed it alot because he would damn near have to wax that thing 8 times a day to look good for 6 years if it was tremclad.

Originally Posted by secondmessiah
if you can afford a cyrogenic chamber, oyu can afford a real paint job
You ever hear of a joke? do I have to write a disclaimer after evey joke I make???
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Old May 10, 2006 | 08:26 AM
  #34  
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here is the kicker question. what is the ratio of minerial spirits to rustoleum
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Old May 10, 2006 | 08:27 AM
  #35  
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actually, how would this compare to just using numerous cans of duplicolor?
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Old May 10, 2006 | 09:40 AM
  #36  
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spraypainting a car is retarded.

Buy tremclad and a spraygun for the same price, have 100X better results.

I spraypainted my 91 talon TSI AWD flat black and it turned out really well aside from the hood which doesn't look as good as the rest of the car - you can see the "tracks" the spraycan left. Everywhere else looked good. My thumb and forefinger were sore for 3 days after.

I had my 10AE "professionally" repainted using urethane (thought I was getting a base clear job but oh well) about 3 years ago. It looked pretty good at first but I'd never pay that bodyshop again because it did not last and now 3 years later I'm looking at going for a second repaint, will probably get done next winter. (some damage to the car, lots of shitty masking, omg shitty masking bugs me!, paint starting to "peel" in spots.

the key to painting is ALWAYS the prep. Spraying is the easy bit. If the car was prepped properly it will turn out well if the follow-through is there.

I'm sure these tremclad roller jobs can look awesome, but me personally, I'd rather spend $500 painting a car and 1/2 the labour. If I've allready sanded my damn car for who knows how many hours, I don't want to spend a week working on just painting it!

Though I've still got a damn run in my 90TII that I have to wetsand out
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Old May 10, 2006 | 10:36 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Terrh
I had my 10AE "professionally" repainted using urethane (thought I was getting a base clear job but oh well) about 3 years ago.
It was probably ARCYLIC urethane, huge world of difference. straight single stage urethane paint is as good as base clear - if you ask why, its because base clear is made of the exact same material, urethane...

I have customers with classic's, one imparticular, a 59 Morris Minor. The car was painted single stage black urethane, wetsanded and buffed and over three years have passed and the car looks like it just came out of the booth.

In fact I have an FD here now that will be recieving the same paint. Just because its single stage, don't discount it as being shitty material. In many ways one could argue that the single stage is actually BETTER because there is less chance of adhesion failure because only one layer is stuck to the primer as opposed to two.

Either way, you might want to check, but Ill bet you it was acrylic urethane - which may as well be lacquer....
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Old May 11, 2006 | 01:07 AM
  #38  
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how can I tell? I'm seriously a noob when it comes to paint.
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