chrispapas

I have an 88se with the four bolt wheel
pattern and I would like to convert to the 5. there is a 87 Turbo at a local junkyard my question is can I take the rotor with the Bering and the break assembly and put them on the se also is there much of a performance gain is stopping distance greatly improved our wheel stability in other words is it worth the time thank you your input is greatly appreciated Chris Pappas .

SilverBullittRX-7

I have the same question/problem. I have also heard a few answers to it. I have an 88SE with the 4 lug, then i have 2 87GXL's sittin in the driveway as parts bitches with 5 lug bologna slicers. I have been told that it is so much work and you'll run into so many problems that its impossible, or rather impossible to someone who needs their car for the next month. I've also been told that its all basically bolt on, fairly easy, but you do have to swap out all the brakes/rotors, and you have to swap out the spindles also because the GXL's/Turbo's had bigger, more advanced brakes and much larger rotors. I tend to believe that it'll be a pointless venture so i haven't begun to do it yet. I hope someone can clear this up for me too. Thanx

4rxz

its a bolt-on but a lot of work
i did it on my base model and believe me the braking change is awsome extremly neede for mild street racing

you will have to swamp the brakes, caliper, rotor, brakeline the one thats like 6 inch

for the guy in the junkyard its cheaper to buy it of someone that is parting out, maybe the other guy can sell you his (sorry i didn't read your names)

i'm in a hurry now but i'll post you a full write-up around 8:00 pm
pacific time its a good idea to get new pads and get the rotor sanded down while it's apart incase it makes noise an make your car very annoying

4rxz

forgot you need rims and tires to.
4-caliper brakes over one-caliper is something you really shpuld consider doing

4rxz

ok i recomend a 5log converstion first from a gxl or t2 it delivers more power in 5 log and a 4 caliper brake system is needed if you are going to use this is a first draft i can write you up a full detail one if you are really going to perform this task but when i get a chance to read the hayes book it helps out a lot


Front wheels
Remove the tires,

Remove the caliper do not open the caliper it has 4 long nut that when removed with some spring open the caliper this will damage and malfunctions the caliper if the surface gets damage or scratch. Behind the caliper (backside) it has two 17mm bolts vertical to each other remove does and the caliper slides out. Try to remember how the caliper and brake pads are position for later reference. Follow the brake line for the caliper, remove a 12mm or 13mm bolt on the shock then with a 10mm open wrench remove the rubber line from the metal line around the upper right wall, try using wd-40 careful that bolt get damage easily

Remove the caliper bracket the bolts are 17mm they are on the backside

With a big Philips screwdriver remove the two bolts that hold rotor then pull the rotor, if it does remove easily there is another hole that if you bolt on a 12mm long bolt it will push the rotor and the spindle apart

Remove the two bolts from the shock there are 19mm wrench and racquet, requires some pressure
Remove the bolts I usually bang them out with a small hammer but the manual says to use a jack to hold the pressure from the sway bars
Remove a large bolt on the bottom 19mm and slight that bolt off then the spindle can be removed

The back is harder since the bolt from the half-shaft has to get loose, the 30mm bolt in the middle which require about 100 120 pound of pressure. I remove the tire bang the cap in the middle of the rim reinstalled the rim use a screwdriver to bend the part of the bolt that gets hammered in for safety, losses the bolt, raises the car remove the tire, remove the caliper, make sure the parking brake is down, use a 14mm to losses the parking brake cable it has 2 nuts to the caliper losses on a few turns remove the cable, remove the caliper bracket, removing the three bolts from spindle is hard the top two are 19mm and the one in the bottom left which is bolted on from bottom up is 21mm
Make sure the rubber in those bolt are in good condition because I broke one the one and installed it any ways and the car throw it self left and right when the gas was release or at 60mph I bought a spindle at a junkyard and had to remove the driver side spindle but when I took it for a smog the man got so scared the car would loose control on the trend mil he did my smog quickly and it passed with flying colors

Now you can get the rotors sanded and balance and new pads but decide first if you really want to go trough this process on your running 7

hypntyz7

Definitely possible. If you have air tools it can be done in under 2 hours. If not, then plan all day(ive done it both ways). It is worth it, both for teh wheels(if keeping stock ones) and brakes. The 4 piston brakes dont "feel" as good, but they stop as good and will not fade.

Its good to keep your 4 lug stuff around, in case you get a good deal on some honda racing wheels(4 lug accord/prelude).